1994 Trans swap Manual 2 auto, Motor wont crank

Dave, you had 3 connectors to mate after you swapped in the pedals? I think I recall there being 3 (two on the clutch pedal and one above the gas pedal).

All fuses are good?

I would find the CSS pigtail if you can. Test for 12 volts into it while cranking. Put the car in neutral and apply the emergency brake!, close the CSS switch, and check for 12 volts egressing it. If that fails, disco' the switch and look for near zero resistance across the switch with the switch closed. If you pass the in/out test, check for the signal reaching the starter relay in the underhood fusebox.

I suppose that if you had to, you could run a new wire from the output of the CSS to the relay coil of the starter relay.

Otherwise, be sure the starter itself is connected properly. To test that wiring from the starter relay towards the starter, put the car in neutral and apply the emergency brake!. Then you can jump terminals 30 and 87 on the starter relay. With the key off, the car will crank but not start. If it still wont crank, the issue is from the starter relay to the starter itself.

Random thoughts. Good luck.

Pressed for time right now. In case this helps, Check out the second picture here. That's how mine looked (3 connectors got plugged in when I did the swap). The red arrow is right on top of the connector that goes to the switch on the quadrant.

rustangdav said:

Thanks for the pics. Ya ,thats the brake switch. You said gas. Now thinking about it when I was pulling out the clutch pedal, I recall seeing the quad was rubing on wires at the top. Giong to check that out and see what the out come well be. Again thanks for pics. I'll let you know in a few days. The auto car is out side and its raining.
Dave

Click to expand...

I got confused here. Just to be sure we're on the same page: The arrow was supposed to point to the brake switch but the arrow itself was drawn on top of the grey connector for that 3rd clutch switch (that's on the quadrant).

Any update on this? It certainly seems like the CSS is the likely culprit. If that checks out good, let me know and I can forward you some Ford wiring diagrams and / or pinpoint tests that can walk you thorugh it with a pretty thorough sequence of things to check.

PS - 1000th post!!! Only took 7 years...