1997 Cobra Tune Question (and some background on the car)

lonely

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Mar 21, 2020
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So, I bought a 1997 Cobra in 2015. After a few months of driving it it was having bad problems with what I presumed was the ECM. We tried replacing a few things throughout the last few years. Then it ended up sitting again for a few years. My car that I was currently driving was a 1998 v6 Mustang and it was starting to fall apart and I didn't wanna put money into it, since I had the Cobra that needed fixing. Took it to a dealership and they couldn't figure it out either. They told me it was either the ECM, fuel pump or one more thing, but they weren't completely sure. Got with my stepdad and his friend and we changed the fuel pump. Didn't solve the problem. Was laying in bed midday one day maybe a week after changing the fuel pump. So fed up with the car. I decided to go out and pull the ECM myself, and see if capacitors were burnt up or something. Turns out it had a chip in the port of it with some duct tape over it. Pulled it out, plugged everything back in and the car has been running pretty smooth since then (been about a month). Pretty disappointing that a 30 minute fix was all the car needed to run properly. Turns out the dealership was so lazy they didn't even check that. They just told us they couldn't get it to communicate with their scanners, and tried other tests while it sat with them for nearly three weeks. Thankfully they didn't charge me anything.

There's some background on it. The car has been running pretty well, but it has been running a little rich and I feel it's holding back a little power. I've changed the plugs to platinum, the oil, and a new EGR valve. It'll sort jerk a little on a cold start in the morning when you get to about 4-5k rpms. Almost like a tiny misfire, but after it's hot it runs real well. It still gets up and going, but that slight smell of gas when it's running is starting to irritate me too. I've scanned the car multiple times and the only code I'm getting is an EGR code, but it's not really doing much (pretty sure it's a bad pressure sensor). I don't think that could cause it to run rich. I thought after a while driving that car enough the computer would relearn and everything would go back to normal, but it doesn't seem like the case. I'm sure it needs to be reprogrammed or retuned. I called another dealership and they said if they're able to reset it to factory it would be $150 to reprogram the ECU. I was looking online at some tuners and they all seem outta my budget (car needs a new alternator soon and a few more things replaced). But I did find this https://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-4bank-custom-9498se.html Is this actually worth it? Will this thing actually be able to correct it from running rich? The car doesn't have many mods besides bilstein all around, subframe connectors, aluminum driveshaft, aluminum radiator, Borla catback exhaust, Spectre cone filter (will buy k&n eventually). I plan to do more later like gears, headers, etc. But right now I just wanna focus on getting it to run real nice. Does anyone have any experience with this specific chip, if it's worth it with my current mods, and if it'll actually correct the rich running condition? Or do I save the money and get it reset to factory? Thanks
 
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Hi,
Do you have the vehicle year correct “1997 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra”, and the motor and EEC (Computer) is of the same year?
If that’s correct, the car is an OBD-2 vehicle, where you would reflash the EEC with a generic (canned) or custom tune on a tuning device. (Ford 1996+ became OBD-2, officially).
The 4 bank eliminator chip by SCT is for an OBD-1 vehicle, of which BAMA would create a custom tune for what the car has on it for aftermarket components.
They work well, one of many options.
Please confirm the year, and take a pic & post it of the device you removed. An OBD-2 vehicle can run off an OBD-1 EEC conversion harness. Just need to figure this out to progress.
Good luck!
-John
Yes, quite familiar with the eliminator chip, the Quarter horse which sounds like was installed, and how ridiculous some tech’s may seem. lol
 
Hi,
Do you have the vehicle year correct “1997 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra”, and the motor and EEC (Computer) is of the same year?
If that’s correct, the car is an OBD-2 vehicle, where you would reflash the EEC with a generic (canned) or custom tune on a tuning device. (Ford 1996+ became OBD-2, officially).
The 4 bank eliminator chip by SCT is for an OBD-1 vehicle, of which BAMA would create a custom tune for what the car has on it for aftermarket components.
They work well, one of many options.
Please confirm the year, and take a pic & post it of the device you removed. An OBD-2 vehicle can run off an OBD-1 EEC conversion harness. Just need to figure this out to progress.
Good luck!
-John
Yes, quite familiar with the eliminator chip, the Quarter horse which sounds like was installed, and how ridiculous some tech’s may seem. lol
Hmmm. Are you sure this chip is for OBD1? I'm seeing it just plugging into ECM like the last chip was. I don't have the old chip anymore. Threw it cause it was junk. I'm looking at reviews and others using the same chip for my same year and they're plugging it directly in the ECM. But yeah the ECM is the correct one. The code is LLX4 on it. The car is still running pretty rich, and it's even throwing tps and iac codes now. I'd assume it's cause it needs reflashed or desperately needs retuned. I'm going to hope this chip is able to solve these problems. It's getting a little irritating having the car die when shifting outta reverse every once and awhile. I ordered the chip. Should be here hopefully in a week. I'll post an update.
 
Hi,
Yes and No. SCT’s 4 Bank chipset is for OBD-1 & works for your OBD-2 EEC-V via J3 port. It will most assuredly work for your LLX4 EEC.
Your EEC is Gen.5 (EEC-V), OBD-2, CDAN4 LLX4, used in both 97’-98’ SVT Cobra’s. OPTIONS:
You can use a chipset with the OBD-1 EEC-IV, and the later OBD-2 EEC-V (which you have) as both have the J3 port (Back of EEC).
So...you list your mods online to SCT/BAMA, they’ll create the program and burn it to the Chip, of which you’ve already done with SCT, correct?
In all likelihood, you’ll be happy with it. 3 Tunes to toggle between with the knob.
FLASHTUNE:
Ditto for a flashtune, but no (“Chip”) is involved. Goes right to your handheld tuner.
OBD-1 has no choice but to use a Chip, tuning it yourself (Tweecer) or replacing the EEC with a programmable one.
You’re OBD-2... such a bigger world, consider Flash-tuning.
A tune (or revisions to an existing Tune) is sent to your handheld flash-tuning device directly via WIFI or email in about (2) days.Just list your mod’s & desires to SCT (BAMA).
https://www.americanmuscle.com/x4-custom-tuner-9698se.html
You flash your EEC with the new Tune(s) with your handheld Tuner. Simple..you may make small revisions, tire size speedo correction, add/pull a bit of timing, fuel, rpm cutout, etc. Limited, but useful.
If the new Tune made works right for you- GREAT! If not so great, the handheld also data-log’s & info can be sent back via WIFI to SCT (BAMA). The tune is tweaked until all is well.
No Harware to pull & resend by Mail. Only
SOFTWARE, all electronically sent.
You will also be able to speak to the person creating/modifying the tune directly to via email with your account, ask questions.
If you ADD a mod to your car, they’ll create another tune, send it directly to the device, you can do this as long as you own the car, as many times as you desire with unlimited custom tunes for life (as long as you own it).
Any mods to the Chip, you have to mail it back and forth. Flash tune is all electronically sent to the device you purchase.
Flash tuning is the most simple and effective method, allows you to quickly & easily do what you want & make more mod’s to the car, if desired.
Consider your options. You can also buy software and learn how to tune it yourself,
or take it to a Dynotuner, or buy a new EEC made for easy tuning, like Megasquirt’s MS2.
Any questions, please post! Hope that helps.
Good luck!
-John
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