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2.3 to 5.0 conversion - fuel lines help

  • Thread starter Thread starter superhuaman
  • Start date Start date Aug 6, 2006
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superhuaman

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I am doing a 2.3 to 5.0 conversion, and... apparently the fuel lines are on the wrong side of the car. (2.3 LH, 5.0 RH) I know how to run hoses from A to B. My question is, where is the best place to run them?

FYI, the spring locks on my car are about where the steering shaft is.
And they need to end up on the right front corner of the 5.0 (fuel rail is on top, but I have those hard lines that run down the side, to the bottom).

What do YOU think?
 
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superhuaman

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Also, should I pull out the 2.3 with the A4LD (auto) trans attached? or separately?
I know I would have to keep a drain pan underneath the tailshaft while it's coming out.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
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#3
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  • #3
MY 91 Notchback is a 2.3l to 5.0L conversion. You need to have a set of fuel lines from a 5.0L car. You do need to pull the transmission out. The 2.3L bolt pattern is not the same bolt pattern as a 5.0L. I have a set of fuel lines from an 88 GT 5.0L.....but I am in Michigan. There is no way I could ship them to you because they are almost the length of the car. If you have any other questions ask me...I did this swap by myself, in three 8 hour days. The car started up at the first turn of the key!! Good luck
 
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superhuaman

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I know the trans i have wont work, im just wondering the best way to remove it to make way for the good stuff.

And do I really need 5.0 fuel lines?? there must be some way i can route them in the engine compartment....
 

1987stangman

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#5
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If you want to do it right I would highly reccomend using the lines from a 5.0L 'stang donor car. I would use everything I could possibly find. about 2 years ago I swaped in a 88' 5.0 H.O from a MK7 into a Ford Ranger and used pretty much everything on the car it had to offer.
 
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superhuaman

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I will find some fuel lines then. Any ideas on the transmission though?
Should it come out with the 2.3 engine or by itself?
 

ChromdOutDubs

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Sep 1, 2005
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Aug 6, 2006
#7
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When i pulled out the 2.3L out of mine for the 351w swap, i pulled the motor and trans all out together, i had no problems with it. But like you said use a drain pan, cuz i spilled oil all over the place

-AJ
 
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superhuaman

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haha thanks guys, its done now. came out together, with a minimum of oil spillage. but i would hesitate to put the 5.0 and aod in together
 

old_blue

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#9
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you can pull the engine and trans out at the same time. A lot easier in my opinion. ALso putting it in that way is easier as well.

fuel lines- You can't just run new fuel lines from the old 4 cyl lines to the new 5.0 ones. The reason they are different on the 5.0 is because the dual exhaust will run way too close to the lines when they cross over under the car in the 2.3 position. the 5.0 stays all on one side. So you need the lines from a 5.0. You can get them from classic tubing.
 

Killer50stang

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superhuaman said:
I know the trans i have wont work, im just wondering the best way to remove it to make way for the good stuff.

And do I really need 5.0 fuel lines?? there must be some way i can route them in the engine compartment....
Click to expand...

Not totally correct. You can change the bell housing and pilot bearing and use this. If you're not going crazy it could last a while. Especially if you're not going with gears. This tranny will shift quicker. Some people may not recommend this setup, but I've known people who have ran it and never had any problems. As for your 5.0 swap, are you running a carb or sticking with EFI? If you're sticking with EFI, you'll need all the harnesses, lines, etc. If you're going with a carb, this will take no time at all.
 

Killer50stang

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#11
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old_blue said:
you can pull the engine and trans out at the same time. A lot easier in my opinion. ALso putting it in that way is easier as well.

fuel lines- You can't just run new fuel lines from the old 4 cyl lines to the new 5.0 ones. The reason they are different on the 5.0 is because the dual exhaust will run way too close to the lines when they cross over under the car in the 2.3 position. the 5.0 stays all on one side. So you need the lines from a 5.0. You can get them from classic tubing.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you have a good jack so you can jack the rear end of the car up or it won't be too easy.
 
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superhuaman

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Killer50stang said:
Not totally correct. You can change the bell housing and pilot bearing and use this. If you're not going crazy it could last a while. Especially if you're not going with gears. This tranny will shift quicker. Some people may not recommend this setup, but I've known people who have ran it and never had any problems.
Click to expand...

Dude, I already said it was an A4LD auto trans

I can't afford to get fuel lines from Classic Tubing!
Tank to pump - $139
Return line - $149
Vapor line - $99
Shipping - $40
Total - $427!
And that is only for steel. Stainless is $463
Maybe I don't need the vapor line (cuz of where the 2.3's line goes), but still...
 

old_blue

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yeah, it was just an idea. Find a junk yard and grab some. None around me have any. I need a set as well as mine got crunch during shipping.
 

Shakerhood

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Oct 28, 2004
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#14
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I used Nylon Fuel Line to replace my Feed line, got the line and the Factory Ford Connectors for under 70 bucks. Check out Ron Morris Performance.
 
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superhuaman

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#15
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Thanks, will do. I suppose I could use stainless braided hose too. Obviously more expensive, but would also work.

How much line did you get? And what size should I use? stock is 5/16" with 1/4" return isnt it?
 

notch22

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Aug 7, 2006
#16
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I looked at Classic and almost dropped my teeth....
 
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superhuaman

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exactly.
 
J

John68

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#18
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Hey man,
If you are looking for those fuel lines, try CJ Pony Parts. They are off route 22, in your backyard. At the Carlisle All Ford Nats, I saw a set of 5.0L fuel lines sell for $50. They were still shiney.

Also, check with Advance Auto Parts. They sell a fuel line kit for $170. I'm not sure what all comes in the fuel line kit though.
 
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superhuaman

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#19
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thanks, i forgot about cj's. return line is $80, feed line is $65.
why is the return line always more expensive??? it's smaller!
i think i may still go with nylon though, since there are less "logistics" involved with getting it home and installing in on the car.
 
J

John68

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#20
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #20
Is there a good write-up anywhere on everything required to do the 4-8 swap?

I have been collecting pieces to do my swap for a few years. I still need some stuff, but I am not sure if there is anything I am missing.

Good luck on your swap. BTW, I have some extra pieces and stuff, if you need anything. I have a really nice pair of GT tail lights. I can paint them to match.

John
 
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