My Problem: Only in the morning (after the car sits overnight) It takes two cranks to start the car even if I give the fuel pump more than enough time to pressurize the system. My fuel pump runs and stays running...maybe longer than it should (read wiring history)
My Real Problem: I've noticed a 2" diameter sized drip under where my fuel lines connect to the chassis fuel lines down by the passenger side sway bar area. It IS fuel dripping...and it seems it only does this when I have to crank the car more than twice on a rare occassion. I have had 2 2" drips in 30 days
...and then this weekend I had a new drip I didn't notice until I got home...but I had driven down the road..smelled gas; pulled over and while the car was running I looked down to see if it was leaking...I watched 3 drips fall making a 4" diameter spot before shutting off the car. I waited for help from my boyfriend, and when he gets there to help me watch for the location of the leak...it doesn't leak anymore...I drove and stopped twice and didn't drip anymore. (I haven't yet tried to find the source of the drip but suspect the fuel line connections by the rubber hose sections (one being a russell line I replaced the rubber hose with on the pressure side) We wanted to make sure the car cooled down before attempting to check it again.
Fuel Line Past:
I had OEM style stainless chassis lines installed by a shop who ran them outside the sway bar....the tire destroyed one of the rubber hoses on the pressure side...it was later rerouted and repaired by replacing the rubber hose with a russell fuel line; and flaring the ends of the hard lines to take the AN fittings. I was pleased it was fixed for good....and finally safe ...until now.
Wiring Past:
I have a 2.3 converted to a 5.0 (93)
I had spliced my wiring to get my fuel pump to work (see reference below) and never got around to toubleshooting the OEM wiring method...so basically my fuel pump is wired to run in the on/run position but bypasses the fuel pump relay...enertia switch...and computer too???? Yes I know this unsafe and plan to wire it properly...sooner than later.
Hiss Symptom:
it may be unrelated, but I have a hiss or...huuussss sound from the fuel rails when the ignition key is on but not in crank mode....it will make this sound indefnately...since I think my pump runs for more than the standard 2-5 seconds a normal car would.
My Assumpitons and Ideas:
Is bypassing the fuel pump relay...or maybe the computer too; causing my fuel pump to over-pressurize the system to the point I'm getting a few drips? Is it leaking when it normally would not because of the way I have this set up? could that be why I'm not getting a consistant leak and only seems to be at start up?
I'd like to fix the wiring, but my issue is...is that why I'm leaking?
what do I do??? I'm worried I'll lose the car to a fire if I can't solve this damn fuel problem....it's by far a theme I've had trouble solving for good.
REFERENCE:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=557489
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For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
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OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.
My Real Problem: I've noticed a 2" diameter sized drip under where my fuel lines connect to the chassis fuel lines down by the passenger side sway bar area. It IS fuel dripping...and it seems it only does this when I have to crank the car more than twice on a rare occassion. I have had 2 2" drips in 30 days
...and then this weekend I had a new drip I didn't notice until I got home...but I had driven down the road..smelled gas; pulled over and while the car was running I looked down to see if it was leaking...I watched 3 drips fall making a 4" diameter spot before shutting off the car. I waited for help from my boyfriend, and when he gets there to help me watch for the location of the leak...it doesn't leak anymore...I drove and stopped twice and didn't drip anymore. (I haven't yet tried to find the source of the drip but suspect the fuel line connections by the rubber hose sections (one being a russell line I replaced the rubber hose with on the pressure side) We wanted to make sure the car cooled down before attempting to check it again.
Fuel Line Past:
I had OEM style stainless chassis lines installed by a shop who ran them outside the sway bar....the tire destroyed one of the rubber hoses on the pressure side...it was later rerouted and repaired by replacing the rubber hose with a russell fuel line; and flaring the ends of the hard lines to take the AN fittings. I was pleased it was fixed for good....and finally safe ...until now.
Wiring Past:
I have a 2.3 converted to a 5.0 (93)
I had spliced my wiring to get my fuel pump to work (see reference below) and never got around to toubleshooting the OEM wiring method...so basically my fuel pump is wired to run in the on/run position but bypasses the fuel pump relay...enertia switch...and computer too???? Yes I know this unsafe and plan to wire it properly...sooner than later.
Hiss Symptom:
it may be unrelated, but I have a hiss or...huuussss sound from the fuel rails when the ignition key is on but not in crank mode....it will make this sound indefnately...since I think my pump runs for more than the standard 2-5 seconds a normal car would.
My Assumpitons and Ideas:
Is bypassing the fuel pump relay...or maybe the computer too; causing my fuel pump to over-pressurize the system to the point I'm getting a few drips? Is it leaking when it normally would not because of the way I have this set up? could that be why I'm not getting a consistant leak and only seems to be at start up?
I'd like to fix the wiring, but my issue is...is that why I'm leaking?
what do I do??? I'm worried I'll lose the car to a fire if I can't solve this damn fuel problem....it's by far a theme I've had trouble solving for good.
REFERENCE:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=557489
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For one, I wouldnt suggest using the 2.3 EFI pump. But as far as not coming on....did you remove the computer and EFI harness when you swappen in the 5.0? If you did, you would have to do some creative rewiring to get the fuel pump to run. The easy way is to just splice 2 wires together in the passenger kick panel where the computer used to be. I can tell you exactly which wires but it will have to wait till I get home this evening. I made wiring diagrams when I rewired my 4cyl to 5.0 cars. There is a green and a grey connector in the kick that have the wires you need. You just splice a "hot in run" wire to the fuel pump wire. I think the hot in run wire is grey/yellow and I'm thinking that the wire that goes back to the inertia switch is red/blue but dont hold me to that. I personally like to wire in a relay and oil pressure switch so that the pump doesnt run if the engine isnt running but it isnt totally required.
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OK, I have the correct wire colors now. The "hot in run" wire is grey with a yellow stripe. The wire to the fuel pump inertia switch is dk green with a yellow stripe. They are both located in the passenger side kick panel by the ECM in the green 8-pin connector. I Always wire in a relay and an oil pressure switch but you can just solder and shring them together and the pump will run whenever the key is in the IGN posistion.
I know this is correct for 91-93 but you didnt say what year your car is so if its older I suppose there is a possibility the wire codes could be different.