2000 Gt Hesistation On Cold Start-up

Hi,

I have a couple of concerns with my Stang:

1. When i start my car sometimes after work (8hrs) my car hesitates to start, almost like it is choking. It doesn't do this all the time. It almost seems like it bogs down too, for about 5 seconds and it idles normally. I tried resetting the idle by disconnecting the battery for 30min and unplugging the IACV.

2. The oil pressure gauges keeps going up and down when driving

3. There's a leak under my car, and it look moist where the tranny meets the driveshaft

4. The power steering whines all the time (I think this is normal??) The reservoir is at full capacity.

5. Tranny shifts very late from 2-3 and 3-4

6. Engines taps very loud when going up a hill.

7. When idling, the car drones (not exhaust) sounds like a dead battery and the engine sounds like it is straining (Tested battery and its good)

8. Engine pulley squeaks when idling cold

9. Car body squeaks in rear passenger side when braking or going over bumps.


Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
 
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I'll try to help.
1. I would just buy another idle air control motor. Owned a lot of Fords and had to replace a few of these. If you can get a gauge to read fuel pressure. I believe it should be between 40psi and 50 psi with the key on. Once the engine starts at idle it should be at least 40psi.
2 and 6 could be related. Could be your oil pump is going out. The tapping your hearing could be lack of oil flow to the lifters. They are hydrolic and need oil to keep them pumped up. Lack of oil will cause them to "collapse" and bleed hydrolic pressure off of them. A new oil pump and a good engine sludge purge will help
3. Sound like the tail shaft seal where the tranny and drive shift meet is leaking. Not to bad to fix. That could explain why your having problems with #5.
4. My power steering wines also. Been doing it for 12yrs. Also the brake booster is tied into the power steering system. Keep that in mind. Bottom line if it's not wining very loudly don't worry about it..
7. No clue. Maybe alternator going bad and not putting enough charge out at idle?
8. I've been running down the same problem for yrs. haven't found it. Mine goes away after a couple of minutes.
9. Shocks or the quadra shocks in the rear. I'm leaning towards the quadra shocks. I replaced mine and the noise went away. Should replace all shocks in the rear.

Good luck from the half ass mechanic!
 
I'll try to help.
1. I would just buy another idle air control motor. Owned a lot of Fords and had to replace a few of these. If you can get a gauge to read fuel pressure. I believe it should be between 40psi and 50 psi with the key on. Once the engine starts at idle it should be at least 40psi.
2 and 6 could be related. Could be your oil pump is going out. The tapping your hearing could be lack of oil flow to the lifters. They are hydrolic and need oil to keep them pumped up. Lack of oil will cause them to "collapse" and bleed hydrolic pressure off of them. A new oil pump and a good engine sludge purge will help
3. Sound like the tail shaft seal where the tranny and drive shift meet is leaking. Not to bad to fix. That could explain why your having problems with #5.
4. My power steering wines also. Been doing it for 12yrs. Also the brake booster is tied into the power steering system. Keep that in mind. Bottom line if it's not wining very loudly don't worry about it..
7. No clue. Maybe alternator going bad and not putting enough charge out at idle?
8. I've been running down the same problem for yrs. haven't found it. Mine goes away after a couple of minutes.
9. Shocks or the quadra shocks in the rear. I'm leaning towards the quadra shocks. I replaced mine and the noise went away. Should replace all shocks in the rear.

Good luck from the half ass mechanic!


Wow thanks so much! I'm bringing it to my mechanic on Wednesday. I'll let you know what he finds.
 
How hard would it be to install anew oil pump?

Just wondering. Is the motor in the car or on an engine stand?

For the Mustang, installing an oil pump needs to have the oil pan removed. To remove the oil pan, requires for the K-member to be lowered while the motor is supported from above. Bottom line. Installing an oil pump in a 4.6 Modular motor is not a trivial job.

On the engine stand: easy.
 
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Just wondering. Is the motor in the car or on an engine stand?

For the Mustang, installing an oil pump needs to have the oil pan removed. To remove the oil pan, requires for the K-member to be lowered while the motor is supported from above. Bottom line. Installing an oil pump in a 4.6 Modular motor is not a trivial job.

On the engine stand: easy.

The engine is in the car. :(
 
So its back from the mechanic....sorry for the late response, i was really busy during the week.

1. Oil pump is fine, i put Rislone Motor Treatment in the oil, still tapping, but I'll give it a chance to work through the system. Oil pressure gauge stills acts funny, maybe its just the gauge??
2. I changed the IACV myself, the old one looked very dirty (of course) the car now idles better and starts up strong. My car still groans, but I've narrowed it down, and now its only when the car is in gear (it's an automatic) when the car is in park or neutral, i don't hear the noise.
3. Wasn't the tranny leaking. (See #4)
4. Steering rack is going, it is leaking out on both sides, he put Lucas Oil stop leak in until i get the money to put a new rack in.
5. Greased up the shocks in the back and the squeak is gone
6. Alternator is fine.
7. Installed a new serpentine, squeak is gone
8. Now there is a new noise..... A/C.......when the A/C is on it makes a funny noise, but ONLY when i press the accelerator.
 
Yea man it won't be a easy job to do at home. Better off letting a shop do it. Wish I could be more help.
I'm new to this forum thing.... i don't know if i have to reply directly to you so that you see this message....but here is a copy of my post from today.....

So its back from the mechanic....sorry for the late response, i was really busy during the week.

1. Oil pump is fine, i put Rislone Motor Treatment in the oil, still tapping, but I'll give it a chance to work through the system. Oil pressure gauge stills acts funny, maybe its just the gauge??
2. I changed the IACV myself, the old one looked very dirty (of course) the car now idles better and starts up strong. My car still groans, but I've narrowed it down, and now its only when the car is in gear (it's an automatic) when the car is in park or neutral, i don't hear the noise.
3. Wasn't the tranny leaking. (See #4)
4. Steering rack is going, it is leaking out on both sides, he put Lucas Oil stop leak in until i get the money to put a new rack in.
5. Greased up the shocks in the back and the squeak is gone
6. Alternator is fine.
7. Installed a new serpentine, squeak is gone
8. Now there is a new noise..... A/C.......when the A/C is on it makes a funny noise, but ONLY when i press the accelerator.
 
Ok bro sounds like you have a lot of things narrowed down. Just curious about the engine tapping noise. Did the mechanic have any suggestions of what it could be? The oil pressure gauge or the sending unit could be bad. The sending unit is how the gauge gets its readings from the pump. This may be a easy fix. I'd start by replacing it and see what happens. Sorry but can you explain this "groan" and ac noises your hearing. Your getting things figured out which is a good thing.
 
Ok bro sounds like you have a lot of things narrowed down. Just curious about the engine tapping noise. Did the mechanic have any suggestions of what it could be? The oil pressure gauge or the sending unit could be bad. The sending unit is how the gauge gets its readings from the pump. This may be a easy fix. I'd start by replacing it and see what happens. Sorry but can you explain this "groan" and ac noises your hearing. Your getting things figured out which is a good thing.

He had no suggestions as i just went for a quickie (Oil Change and pulley belt) since i was going on a semi-long trip and was short on my budget.

i should be going back soon when i get more money. i will be thoroughly fixing it then.

since the groaning is only when it is in gear, could it be the torque converter? would this justify the rough shifts as well?

i was also told that the a/c squeak could be the idler pulley?

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP!!

I will keep you in the loop.

Joe
 
It wouldn't hurt to change the idler pulley and the belt tensioner while your at it. Very easy to replace them both. I would flush the transmission completely. Find a place that does a complete flush including the torque converter. Some place just change the fluid and that's it. This could help with the groaning and the shifting problems your having. Your more than welcomed! We're all here to help. Keep us posted bro.
 
It wouldn't hurt to change the idler pulley and the belt tensioner while your at it. Very easy to replace them both. I would flush the transmission completely. Find a place that does a complete flush including the torque converter. Some place just change the fluid and that's it. This could help with the groaning and the shifting problems your having. Your more than welcomed! We're all here to help. Keep us posted bro.

URGENT!!

Now it cranks for over 5 seconds before it turns over... It sounds like a normal start, but for over 5 seconds....my automatic starter also fails, but when I use that, it cranks ONCE then stops.
 
URGENT!!

Now it cranks for over 5 seconds before it turns over... It sounds like a normal start, but for over 5 seconds....my automatic starter also fails, but when I use that, it cranks ONCE then stops.

Joseph so what your saying is your car cranks over for 5 seconds before it starts or does it start at all? Could be the starter is going out or your battery is bad. Batteries can show good voltage but once a load is put on them the amperage output is to low to start the car. A lot of auto part store will check the battery for free. It will show what the battery output is along with the charging system to make sure it's working properly. Give that a shot and get back to us. Keep plugging away at it.
 
Joseph so what your saying is your car cranks over for 5 seconds before it starts or does it start at all? Could be the starter is going out or your battery is bad. Batteries can show good voltage but once a load is put on them the amperage output is to low to start the car. A lot of auto part store will check the battery for free. It will show what the battery output is along with the charging system to make sure it's working properly. Give that a shot and get back to us. Keep plugging away at it.

I don't think that its the starter, because it starts every time
i don't think its the battery, because i tested the alternator, and have the normal 12.6 when its off, and a steady 14.2 when idle and at load.

i think it might be a fuel related issue..... just now i tried starting it, and it would normally crank for 5 seconds..........BUT i experimented and turned the key to "on" for 5 seconds, to cycle the fuel pump.....and voila!!!! the car starts like a beaut!!!!
so my question to you is....fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator??
 
I don't think that its the starter, because it starts every time
i don't think its the battery, because i tested the alternator, and have the normal 12.6 when its off, and a steady 14.2 when idle and at load.

i think it might be a fuel related issue..... just now i tried starting it, and it would normally crank for 5 seconds..........BUT i experimented and turned the key to "on" for 5 seconds, to cycle the fuel pump.....and voila!!!! the car starts like a beaut!!!!
so my question to you is....fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator??

Ok I just wanted to make sure it starts. It could be either the pump or regulator. You can go to your local part store and buy a gauge to test the fuel pressure. With the key on it should be between 40 and 50 psi. Hook the guage on the schrader valve which is located on the passenger side fuel rail. It sits up front of the engine and looks like the valve stem of a tire. When checking the fuel pressure turn the key 1 time and see how much pressure you have. Look us know what you come up with bro.
 
Ok I just wanted to make sure it starts. It could be either the pump or regulator. You can go to your local part store and buy a gauge to test the fuel pressure. With the key on it should be between 40 and 50 psi. Hook the guage on the schrader valve which is located on the passenger side fuel rail. It sits up front of the engine and looks like the valve stem of a tire. When checking the fuel pressure turn the key 1 time and see how much pressure you have. Look us know what you come up with bro.

Now its fine, i have no idea what it was..... car is still tapping A LOT.....that's my biggest concern.

the squeak is back in the rear shock area....
 
So the engine tapping is still there? Well it concerns me too. Is your oil pressure gauge still flaky? Could still be a bad pump or worn out lifters. A good mechanic can tell u that. Brother I would at least take it somewhere for a diagnosis. Sorry I can't be more help on it. Pearl02.
 
So the engine tapping is still there? Well it concerns me too. Is your oil pressure gauge still flaky? Could still be a bad pump or worn out lifters. A good mechanic can tell u that. Brother I would at least take it somewhere for a diagnosis. Sorry I can't be more help on it. Pearl02.

Attached some files.... i am going to the mechanic as soon as my wallet gives me the OK :(
 

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