2000 GT, Takes longer to start, stalled on me today.

For the last few days my car doesn't turn over as quickly as usual, normally it fires right up (even in the morning) but lately it has to turn over for a few seconds.

Also today I was driving and it just died out of nowhere and wouldn't start for a few minutes, it would just turn over and wouldn't even attempt to start, I then tried flooring it and starting but that didn't help, So I let it sit for a few minutes and then it started right up and drove home without any issues. Possible fuel pump issue? Any ideas appreciated!

Car has 75k miles and is stock, I replaced the fuel filter about 9 months ago.
 
Check the Crank Sensor. Get the car up on jack stands, unbolt the a/c compressor and pull out the sensor. I had the exact same problem for 6 months until I finally checked it out. It had oil on the end so it was throwing the magnet off. Replaced it and never had an issue again
 
Whatever the problem is it got worse today, the car wont start at all now (plenty of fuel in the tank, battery fully charged) luckily it happened in my driveway instead of on the road.

Thanks for the suggestions ill let ya know what I figure out.
 
Test for fuel pressure leak down

Try this. Turn the key on, don’t start. Wait 3 seconds. Turn the key off. Turn the key on, wait 3 seconds. Now try to start.

If it starts right up, this means that the fuel pressure is bleeding down while the car is off. This trick works because the fuel pump will run for a few seconds at initial key on. The repeated key on/off cycling causes the fuel pump to run longer and re-pressurize the lines.

IF this proves to be the problem, look for a bad regulator (return system), check valve, leaky fuel injectors (there is a Ford TSB), or a bad fuel pump.

Let us know the results and we will go from there.
 
Try this. Turn the key on, don’t start. Wait 3 seconds. Turn the key off. Turn the key on, wait 3 seconds. Now try to start.

If it starts right up, this means that the fuel pressure is bleeding down while the car is off. This trick works because the fuel pump will run for a few seconds at initial key on. The repeated key on/off cycling causes the fuel pump to run longer and re-pressurize the lines.

IF this proves to be the problem, look for a bad regulator (return system), check valve, leaky fuel injectors (there is a Ford TSB), or a bad fuel pump.

Let us know the results and we will go from there.


Ok turning the key off and on like you said made it fire right up, I tried driving it around the block and it was sputtering / hesitating big time, If I barely push the gas it will move but when I press the pedal not even halfway down it causes the car to try stalling / hesitating. sounds like lack of fuel?

Friend of mine suggested my fuel filter might be plugged because I have a bad habit of running my gas tank near empty before refilling. Also the filter is autozone brand not sure if that was a good idea.. but the filter is only 9 months old. I always run premium fuel.
 
Honestly, it could be a lack of fuel. It could be too much fuel. It could be MAF, O2, vac leak, COP misfire, TPS, or a crap load of other things.

Start out with the usual stuff. Clean the MAF. Change the fuel filter. Check the plugs. Look for water down in the spark plug holes. Look for vacuum leaks. Pull the DTC codes.

In fact, it would turn out to be a good thing if the check engine light came on. This would give us something concrete to go on.

Starting with the fuel filter is as good as place as any to start. The move on to clean the MAF. Then look for Vac leaks.

Next, consider testing the fuel pressure. Quick leak down could indicate a leaky fuel injector. To little fuel pressure could indicate a fuel pump problem. Also consider using a scanner to monitor fuel pressure.

Let the fun begin.
 
Turns out the fuel pump is bad, luckily my extended warranty was still active (I thought it had expired already) and they're covering a good chunk of the repair cost including the tow to the shop. They say it will be ready to go tomorrow afternoon.

When I get the car back I'm still interested in cleaning the MAF myself and was wondering whats the best method for doing this, Ive read how to remove it which seems easy enough but is it OK to use carb cleaner on it? Ive heard mixed responses, some say carb cleaner can damage the sensor or wire inside?

Thanks again for the help.
 
Use MAF cleaner to clean MAF

Good to hear that you have a solution. Hope the on/off trick helped.

Do not use carburetor cleaner. The MAF is very sensitive and will almost surely be damaged by carburetor cleaner.

Also, do not use brake clean. Too strong.

They make products similar to brake clean just for MAF’s. This is the safest product.
 
Good to hear that you have a solution. Hope the on/off trick helped.

Do not use carburetor cleaner. The MAF is very sensitive and will almost surely be damaged by carburetor cleaner.

Also, do not use brake clean. Too strong.

They make products similar to brake clean just for MAF’s. This is the safest product.

Sounds good ill have to call autozone etc. see if I can find the proper cleaner or buy it online if I have to.

I got my car back today and its running good the only reason I wanted to clean the MAF it's never been cleaned before and Ive read it can make the car run stronger (It doesn't feel as powerful as of late) I know there's a number of things that can cause this so figured I'd start with the easy stuff first. I also haven't changed the spark plugs in a long time.

Thanks again for the help :)