2000 V6 Mustang Hesitation Issue

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Remy11

New Member

Feb 1, 2017

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Jun 19, 2017

#1

• Jun 19, 2017

• #1

I have a 2000 v6 mustang that hesitates if i barely press the gas pedal it starts shaking like crazy but if i floor it and cruise at a high speed it does not do it.

Cel codes-
All 02 sensor codes are on
(No bungs for back o2 sensors)
And an occaisionally bank 1 running lean.

Car modifications-
CAI
Flowmaster exhaust system

What ive done-
Checked for vaccum leaks
Changed fuel filter
Cleaned maf

Sprayed electrical spray on every plug under the hood

I have been fighting with this sense i bought this vehicle last year and it is very reliable and gets me where i need to go but this hesitation issue is something cannot rule out...

Thanks, Remy

 

Last edited: Jun 19, 2017

85ragtop

BTW, I like dudes.

10 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Jun 19, 2017

#2

• Jun 19, 2017

• #2

Thread moved to sn95 V6 tech.

 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician

Aug 14, 2009

5,892

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Houston Texas

Jun 20, 2017

#3

• Jun 20, 2017

• #3

Just wondering. Have you checked all the fuses? Especially fuse F2.2 and F2.8?

Beyond that it seems to me to be short sighted to run this car with known O2 DTC codes from the front O2 sensors. It should be expected to have driveability issues when the Front O2 sensors are not doing their job correctly.

The rear O2's will not cause driveability issues.

Standard disclaimer. Suggest starting EVERY trouble shooting session with a through review of the battery, battery cables, and alternator. Are the battery terminals clean and tight? Does the battery hold a charge? Has the alternator been tested for correct output and excessive AC ripple (bad diode). No excuse to skip this step as almost all auto parts stores will test for free.

Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

 

R

Remy11

New Member

Feb 1, 2017

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Jun 20, 2017

#4

• Jun 20, 2017

• #4

wmburns said:

Just wondering. Have you checked all the fuses? Especially fuse F2.2 and F2.8?

Beyond that it seems to me to be short sighted to run this car with known O2 DTC codes from the front O2 sensors. It should be expected to have driveability issues when the Front O2 sensors are not doing their job correctly.

The rear O2's will not cause driveability issues.

Standard disclaimer. Suggest starting EVERY trouble shooting session with a through review of the battery, battery cables, and alternator. Are the battery terminals clean and tight? Does the battery hold a charge? Has the alternator been tested for correct output and excessive AC ripple (bad diode). No excuse to skip this step as almost all auto parts stores will test for free.

Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Click to expand...

I have checked all fuses and they seem to be fine.... i did have a battery terminal issue a few month back where the terminals where rusty but i replaced them and it got rid of that problem, the battery has a constant voltage of 14 when the car is on, i have never tested the alternator though, i ordered an obd 2 scan tool and i would will report back with exact codes

 

R

Remy11

New Member

Feb 1, 2017

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Jun 28, 2017

#5

• Jun 28, 2017

• #5

Update:
I have the following codes
Back o2 sensor codes

Maf circuit code

Egr flow inefficient (changed egr valve

Pending code- bank 1 running too lean

 

R

Remy11

New Member

Feb 1, 2017

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Jun 28, 2017

#6

• Jun 28, 2017

• #6

Update:
I have the following codes
Back o2 sensor codes

Maf circuit code

Egr flow inefficient (changed egr valve

Pending code- bank 1 running too lean

 

B

BeastsNMonsters

Member

Jun 25, 2017

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East Texas

Jun 28, 2017

#7

• Jun 28, 2017

• #7

Investigate the MAF first. If it's not getting the right signal from partial throttle, or if the MAF is hesitating in it's reaction, then you'll have a hesitation. Double check the entire circuit for resistance. Namely corrosion. Look for enlarged spots in the wire.

Go ahead and install the new O2 sensors too.

For the EGR, clean the area around the EGR too. There might be build up in that area causing the low flow. Also, a lean condition is going to leave carbon in the exhaust.

 

R

Remy11

New Member

Feb 1, 2017

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Jun 29, 2017

#8

• Jun 29, 2017

• #8

Update: i have long fuel trim readings if any wanna can tell me what it means...

Bank 1 long term fuel trim-23%
Bank 2 long term fuel trim-5%

 

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Reformation1

Member

Aug 28, 2016

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Jul 27, 2017

#9

• Jul 27, 2017

• #9

I have a similar issue. My engine light is on and I took it to autozone. There data reader said MAF. So I got the MAF cleaner and sprayed the mass air flow sensor. Let it dry then put it back inside. I drove it for 45 min one way and back and the engine light is still on. Plus it hesitates slightly but not as bad as it did at first. So I am going to spray the MAF again tonight and also have a look at the IAC. Under 62,000 so shouldnt be too bad.

 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician

Aug 14, 2009

5,892

514

204

Houston Texas

Jul 28, 2017

#10

• Jul 28, 2017

• #10

I'm wondering just which code said the MAF is dirty? Because I can't think of one right now.......

Always best to post the full DTC code. There are 1000's of them and they each have a story to tell.