Engine 2012 GT, blown engine

I had the ticking issue start last week, then major noise in top engine and drop in oil pressure this morning, Engine is a goner.

Car is a loaded (every option Convertible) in great condition, 142k miles 2012 GT. I was getting trade in offers in the $7k range before this happened. Book trade in is around $12k trade in, retail $15k. I had been trying to sell for almost 4 months at $11k prior to this with no luck. Opinions on where I can go from here? Looks like around $5500 total cost for used engine installed.
 
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Hi,
Sorry to hear. Don’t want to give false hope here, but have something that may interest you.
I’ve had a few of these sail through the shop with similar issues, others i work closely with that work on Coyote’s specifically arrived at the same conclusions & was just wondering how you’d confirmed the engine is indeed, truly, in dire straights...
Engine damage, did you install a manual oil pressure gauge & reference, add viscosity approximately 20% above current, and retest? Scope the cylinders, the Pan, pull the oil it had out?
Confirm lower end was involved (mains, rod bearings) or only the valve-train?
TIVCT, it’s loss of control over the Valvetrain during low oil pressure will sound like a sledgehammer, and run absolutely horrible, throw DT codes, experience significant power losses -owners believe the 5.0’s done for - in actuality, many times this has been disproven.
Dealerships have misdiagnosed this condition, Ford has TSB’s posted.
Did you experience any temperature fluctuations when this began, last time it ‘ran seemingly into the ground?’
Gen 1A & 1 B, Gen 2 Coyote motors underwent heavy yet not instantaneous modification(s) in the oiling system across the years due to this pressure fluctuation, and Ford fully addressed all issues finally in 2018.
A few Static Valvetrain components, for instance, require live oil pressure during operation, failure of any one may result in a significant oil pressure drop, overall.
Fortunately, engine damage usually only occurs to engine bearings under 10lbs of idle oil pressure(hot).
Temperature in the area of which you live, recently escalated temperatures?
What lubricant viscosity are you running, what additives- in any, I.e., Zinc, PTFE, etc. .
Run full/partial synthetic, Mfg.?
Run oe Synthetic for any long periods?
Car see highway miles, generally?
Did you get a professional assessment, or perform mechanical diagnostics yourself, what level of expertise do you or the individual that performed the failure analysis have?
I can give you requested options, but would you entertain performing a few tests first?
Do you have a Compression tester, leak down test kit, decent hand tools, good Scantool (Reads PID’s, drive cycle abilities, etc?).
Did you pull the DTC’s, if so- what are they? Don’t restart, pull codes with engine off.
I’ll reconnect tonight to view your response.
Best!
-John
 
Got lucky and sold the car yesterday for $5300. Junk yard engines around here were $3200-3800. Have a nice affordable shop ($1200 to swap +100-500fluids, extras).

It was a heavy clanking sound and shop was pretty confident it wasn't fixable without rebuild.