289 needs more power!

Aiden Adams · Apr 30, 2019

Whats up everyone? My name is Aiden and my 67 coupe is named Amelia! I've had her for coming on 5 years this June. I built her all with my dad. She's got a 200 straight 6 and I am ready to move up to that 289. I have the motor but I am looking to do more of a performance build this go around. I am wondering what modifications you guys recommend for adding horsepower. I am open to any ideas. This is the beginning of this process so I am only starting with research. In the meantime I need to get her back up and running because I sure do miss driving her haha.

Realmongo · Apr 30, 2019

Before you even think of going that route, you will need to upgrade your suspension, brakes, and rear axle to handle the weight and torque.

Aiden Adams · Apr 30, 2019

I know. I have 4 disc conversion, 9 inch rear end and what not already. All that will be done first.

rustaddict · May 3, 2019

What transmission will you use behind it? What kind of shape is your 289 in? Will it need to be freshened up inside or is it in good enough shape already that you can just add your go fast goodies and move on with your project? You should benefit from an aluminum intake with a small 4 barrel, a mild cam and if it were mine I'd add some better flowing heads. At least some GT 40s. Be careful not to buy too big of a cam for that small V8 or it'll be a dog on the street. I'd call or email whoever your favorite cam company is and let them recommend one for your application. Also, be careful which intake manifold you choose if you plan on keeping your stock hood. I upgraded my 68 coupe from a 200 to a 302.

2Blue2 · May 4, 2019

Wecome on Adien

go for the whole edelbrock RPM kit with heads, cam, manifold, and carb.
They have already done the engineering for you.
Would be better that playing guess and check on your own bank account.

Or Crites has a 460ci install kit you might consider. could be done for about the same price.

Aiden Adams · Apr 14, 2020

rustaddict said:
What transmission will you use behind it? What kind of shape is your 289 in? Will it need to be freshened up inside or is it in good enough shape already that you can just add your go fast goodies and move on with your project? You should benefit from an aluminum intake with a small 4 barrel, a mild cam and if it were mine I'd add some better flowing heads. At least some GT 40s. Be careful not to buy too big of a cam for that small V8 or it'll be a dog on the street. I'd call or email whoever your favorite cam company is and let them recommend one for your application. Also, be careful which intake manifold you choose if you plan on keeping your stock hood. I upgraded my 68 coupe from a 200 to a 302.

Thanks! all great things I will look into. I appreciate your help.

wicked93gs · Apr 14, 2020

I would go with a 302 roller block, bolt on some GT40P heads, and a nice roller cam...maybe some headers or HiPo manifolds...pretty easy to hit 280HP that way for less than $1500

billison · Apr 14, 2020

i Would absolutely skip the 289 and go 302. The fox guys have parts all day long. Maybe even look into a 351 so you have room to grow.

rustaddict · Apr 15, 2020

You may be able to find a deal on a running explorer 5.0 and find little bit hotter roller cam used and add an intake and carburetor. The mid-late 90s explorers already have gt40p heads on them.

wicked93gs · Apr 15, 2020

rustaddict said:
You may be able to find a deal on a running explorer 5.0 and find little bit hotter roller cam used and add an intake and carburetor. The mid-late 90s explorers already have gt40p heads on them.

Didn't the explorer engines have a lower compression ratio though due to piston differences?(I could very well be wrong, but for some reason that is the reason I have it in my head its better to use the heads alone on earlier roller blocks, or even non-roller blocks if you like flat tappet cams and oil additives(good option if you want an updated 289))

D Durden · Apr 17, 2020

Aiden, WELCOME TO THE FAMILY!!!! Love the car!

Here's my 10 cents (my 2 cents are free). I started out with a 289 in my 1965 (Peg). I did all the go fast goodies stuff (intake, carb, cam, exhaust, MSD, etc . . .). It was a lot of fun building that little motor up over 18 months. To get me through college (I was 16 when I got her), my parents insisted on a "reliable engine" because I was driving 5 hours each way to school. So, they had a "pro" build a 351W that was solid, reliable, and not that "racing motor".

So, the guy IS a pro, and that motor was head and shoulders over the "hot" 289 I had. It was a different world, okay? If you REALLY want some fun power in a fun car, as much as I love the little 17 squared motors (AND I DO!), for a street car, it's just tough to beat some extra cubes for about the same price and problems. You can get fun out of it without having to turn up the rpm's, they don't work as hard, and it doesn't cost much more (if any). Just something to think about . . .

Oh, got out of college and that "pro" built another Windsor for me . . .409 stroker . . . solid lifter . . . beast of a motor . . . in 1994. That same motor is about to get a Tremec TKO, I think. Go with the Windsor if you can.

rustaddict · Apr 20, 2020

wicked93gs said:
Didn't the explorer engines have a lower compression ratio though due to piston differences?(I could very well be wrong, but for some reason that is the reason I have it in my head its better to use the heads alone on earlier roller blocks, or even non-roller blocks if you like flat tappet cams and oil additives(good option if you want an updated 289))

I'm not 100% sure. I didn't think so but you have my curiosity now. I plan to investigate. Weren't the old fox body 5.0s about 9:1 ?

redNfast · Apr 20, 2020

2Blue2 said:
Wecome on Adien

go for the whole edelbrock RPM kit with heads, cam, manifold, and carb.
They have already done the engineering for you.
Would be better that playing guess and check on your own bank account.

Or Crites has a 460ci install kit you might consider. could be done for about the same price.

I like the crate idea, especially with todays after market offers..... Having a drop in motor with whoop=ass built & tested. A happy camper the owner will be. Sorting out the suspension will take some time all by itself .

Noobz347 · Apr 20, 2020

wicked93gs said:
Didn't the explorer engines have a lower compression ratio though due to piston differences?(I could very well be wrong, but for some reason that is the reason I have it in my head its better to use the heads alone on earlier roller blocks, or even non-roller blocks if you like flat tappet cams and oil additives(good option if you want an updated 289))

Even if that were true ( I don't recall hearing that before but I couldn't say for certain ), there's no part of that Explorer long block combination that isn't superior to earlier setups, in nearly every way.

Let's assume for a moment that the compression on an explorer block is slightly lower than... [what]? If N/A, the OEM heads gotta go anyway soooo...

I say we take a Junkyard cheap-o fuel-injected [whatever], slap some new gaskets on it, and boost the crap out of a fuel-injected street beast for less than what we could build an equivalent non-roller to be anywhere near that. Now, we're in the 320-340 HP range depending on what kind of deal can be found on a used and complete supercharger kit.

Flat tappet motors are good for three things: Concourse restorations, converting to roller or holding beer cans in the garage.

wicked93gs · Apr 20, 2020

Noobz347 said:
e
Even if that were true ( I don't recall hearing that before but I couldn't say for certain ), there's no part of that Explorer long block combination that isn't superior to earlier setups, in nearly every way.

Let's assume for a moment that the compression on an explorer block is slightly lower than... [what]? If N/A, the OEM heads gotta go anyway soooo...

I say we take a Junkyard cheap-o fuel-injected [whatever], slap some new gaskets on it, and boost the crap out of a fuel-injected street beast for less than what we could build an equivalent non-roller to be anywhere near that. Now, we're in the 320-340 HP range depending on what kind of deal can be found on a used and complete supercharger kit.

Flat tappet motors are good for three things: Concourse restorations, converting to roller or holding beer cans in the garage.

It may not be true...just seem to recall reading it somewhere and it seemed to make sense at the time as one of the reasons the GT40p motors were rated the same as a 5.0 Mustang GT 10 years older even though they had better heads and intake manifold. But yes, even so it will make more power than a tired old 289(much as I love the old 289s) carbed or EFI.

Blue_Cheesehead · Apr 24, 2020

If you have the 289 it is a fine engine to build. With all the 302, 331 and 347's out there people are shocked at how well my little 292 (289+.030) runs. Flat top pistons, flat tappet .484/.512 lift, 216/228 duration cam, AFR 165 heads, Performer RPM intake ,Holley 600 and full length headers. This drives a 3.55 rear end with T5z transmission. It pulls well over 6,000 rpm. It ran well with some 1965 home pocket ported heads, but the AFR's really did wake it up.

If you do not have an engine, and just want to buy something to stick in there, a 302 roller is tough to beat.

Aiden Adams · Feb 18, 2021

D Durden said:
Aiden, WELCOME TO THE FAMILY!!!! Love the car!

Here's my 10 cents (my 2 cents are free). I started out with a 289 in my 1965 (Peg). I did all the go fast goodies stuff (intake, carb, cam, exhaust, MSD, etc . . .). It was a lot of fun building that little motor up over 18 months. To get me through college (I was 16 when I got her), my parents insisted on a "reliable engine" because I was driving 5 hours each way to school. So, they had a "pro" build a 351W that was solid, reliable, and not that "racing motor".

So, the guy IS a pro, and that motor was head and shoulders over the "hot" 289 I had. It was a different world, okay? If you REALLY want some fun power in a fun car, as much as I love the little 17 squared motors (AND I DO!), for a street car, it's just tough to beat some extra cubes for about the same price and problems. You can get fun out of it without having to turn up the rpm's, they don't work as hard, and it doesn't cost much more (if any). Just something to think about . . .

Oh, got out of college and that "pro" built another Windsor for me . . .409 stroker . . . solid lifter . . . beast of a motor . . . in 1994. That same motor is about to get a Tremec TKO, I think. Go with the Windsor if you can.

Nice! I never thought of that before. That sounds awesome. I will look into it. I currently have a 289 just sitting in the backyard so I might just start with that as my stang is no longer a daily driver!

Aiden Adams · Feb 18, 2021

Blue_Cheesehead said:
If you have the 289 it is a fine engine to build. With all the 302, 331 and 347's out there people are shocked at how well my little 292 (289+.030) runs. Flat top pistons, flat tappet .484/.512 lift, 216/228 duration cam, AFR 165 heads, Performer RPM intake ,Holley 600 and full length headers. This drives a 3.55 rear end with T5z transmission. It pulls well over 6,000 rpm. It ran well with some 1965 home pocket ported heads, but the AFR's really did wake it up.

If you do not have an engine, and just want to buy something to stick in there, a 302 roller is tough to beat.

Awesome! I have a 289 sitting in the backyard for her. Needs to be freshened up but I plan on building it here shortly. I'm going to look into the AFR heads. Thanks!

Desoto · Feb 20, 2021

Blue_Cheesehead said:
If you have the 289 it is a fine engine to build. With all the 302, 331 and 347's out there people are shocked at how well my little 292 (289+.030) runs. Flat top pistons, flat tappet .484/.512 lift, 216/228 duration cam, AFR 165 heads, Performer RPM intake ,Holley 600 and full length headers. This drives a 3.55 rear end with T5z transmission. It pulls well over 6,000 rpm. It ran well with some 1965 home pocket ported heads, but the AFR's really did wake it up.

If you do not have an engine, and just want to buy something to stick in there, a 302 roller is tough to beat.

You are right about the heads and compression being the most important power gainer on a small block Ford. The other thing that is needed to make it live is to install Milodon rod bolts if you use the stock rods. Those stock 5/16" bolts broke on me and ruined a few engines in my youth. I missed a shift with my foot to the floor with the Milodon bolts and even though it pegged 8,000 rpm before I could lift my foot the engine lived.

MARKDTN · Mar 1, 2021

Completely agree that putting a V8 in a 6 car, you must fix the brakes and suspension first. I am just finishing putting a 2000 Explorer 5.0 in a '66 in full OBD2 trim. EFI not your cup of tea? Then buy a 96-01 5.0 Explorer/Mountaineer for $500-1000. Use the engine and rearend. Sell the intake and transmission (especially 2wd). Other misc parts from it will sell and you will have a cheap or free engine. Put a decent intake and carb on it. Use oil pan and timing cover from the 289. Replace the oil pump, pickup, and timing gear while you are looking at them. Research the balancer, probably can't use the Explorer one. You will have to buy HiPo exhaust manifolds to work with the GT40 plug angle. I hate headers, but that is just me. Want to go a little faster? Change the cam. Unless you get a screaming deal on a fresh 289 there is no reason to use a 289 when roller 5.0s are so cheap and available. My .02

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? I like to do as much as I can cheap. You could be in a roller 5.0 250HP in the car with mounts, radiator, HiPo exhaust manifolds, etc for say $1000 or less with some horse trading and scrapping. If you go buy heads, build a motor and all that it will cost way more to get 300HP or more. You need to decide how fast you want to go. That will help decide if you need to go all in now.

289 needs more power!

Aiden Adams

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Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"

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will be trying this sex one when I can find it

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I like tinted tail

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DEEP FAT FRY

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