3.08s to 4.30s with slicks baby!!

If its all out drag i would say weld pro-stars... They are clean looking and they are light...

Something else.. If this is all out drag car i must say that the mods you have so far seem to be more of what most people are using for the street... when i think drag car i think massive amounts of lift, and duration and heads and intake that support that.
 
well to really make the thing run i think you need to start all over... Sell the motor you have... Go with a good block (dart, r, svo, etc). Then if you want stroke it or whatever, Maybe even just a longrod 302 or maybe start off with a 351 or a stroked 351. Then i would suggest having it internally balanced. Get some good highflowing heads or have your tfs REALLY worked on and setup for a solid roller cam (high rev). Then Get you something like a spyder intake and all the other supporting mods like bigger injectors fuel system, tb, maf, etc...

Oh and you want high compression on top of all that... If your not goign to drive it on the street you might as well spend the extra money on race fuel.

Just a thought.
 
moneypit94 said:
Oh and you want high compression on top of all that... If your not goign to drive it on the street you might as well spend the extra money on race fuel.

Just a thought.
Your member ID and avatar is very fitting! :rlaugh: :rlaugh: j/k.
That's exactly what we're preparing ourselves for...

I'm on track with you until the above quote, but race fuel? What's involved with that?
 
If its a drag car, put a spool in it when you do the axles. Also, get "race" axles if its not driven on the street. They will survive harder launches at the track, but are proan to breaking on the street as they are hard and do not flex like a street axles does. For wheels I love bogarts, and since you have a cobra they are about your only choice for the front runners if you stick with the factory front brakes. I think you will need a 16" wheel for the rear as well to run slicks on... I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain on this. For bogart wheels contact Steve at: http://www.mycamaroz28.homestead.com/ He will not be beat for service and pricing on bogart wheels.
 
to add to pauls comment about the axles.. not only do you need race axles to last but they are required after a certain ET... Im not sure what problems you will run into because of abs breaks and c-clip eliminators. Im thinking you will just have to ditch the abs...
 
Good morning guys!
...Damn, I had a few beers lastnight and I've got a headache from hell this morning.


moneypit94 said:
to add to pauls comment about the axles.. not only do you need race axles to last but they are required after a certain ET... Im not sure what problems you will run into because of abs breaks and c-clip eliminators. Im thinking you will just have to ditch the abs...
Gotcha!

I'm not too certain what the c-clips are? I'm gonna go ahead and start ordering the axles today.
 
Killercanary said:
If its a drag car, put a spool in it when you do the axles. Also, get "race" axles if its not driven on the street. They will survive harder launches at the track, but are proan to breaking on the street as they are hard and do not flex like a street axles does. For wheels I love bogarts, and since you have a cobra they are about your only choice for the front runners if you stick with the factory front brakes. I think you will need a 16" wheel for the rear as well to run slicks on... I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain on this. For bogart wheels contact Steve at: http://www.mycamaroz28.homestead.com/ He will not be beat for service and pricing on bogart wheels.
Paul, we need 16" rims in the rear if we are running slicks? I hope not.... :(

I'll have to do some searching over at the Corral. :nonono:

Joe
 
c-clips are the clips that hold the axles in from the inside (near the diff). c-clip eliminators are designed to hold the axles in from the outside.

BTW, how radical do you plan on getting with this? There is so much stuff that can be done its crazy. Stripping the car out, suspension, transmission, the motor of coarse, the drive train, wheels and tires, the rear end, etc. And to do things right everything needs to go well with each other. (ex transmission ratios, tire size, rear end gear size, and rpms/shift poits should all be somewhat matched up so you cross the line at the optimal rpm and gear.)
 
Well, at this point in time without hesitation, I say radical.

As mentioned before, this project has other owners and it's our intention to construct a dragster from this platform. This is something we've all agreed to invest in and pursue very diligently.

I'm really appreciative you're showing interest in my goals set forth to get the ball rolling. I hope perhaps you and Joe don't mind if once in while I pick your brains to determine the best course of action.

...and of course those who don't mind throwing in 5 or 10 cents here and there.

Bill
 
I had a BAD experience with strange, so I will not recommend them. If you wish to retain your rear dsic and ABD your only choice that I'm aware of is to call Mark Williams motorsports and get a custom job from them. they can do it as I almost went that route but it was way too rich for my blood! C clips hold the axles in. If they break the axles can come right out of the rear end, HOWEVER on our cars with rear dsic brakes, they can not come out because the dsic holds them in. they are still required at a certain ET anyway though. Do a search on google for mark williams and you will find their site. I bought my eaton from them.

Joe- 16" wheels are requires on COBRA's since the rear caliper is spaced out farther from the rear end than the GT's. I'm pretty sure of this. On our GT's we do not need 16's out back.
 
I like Mosers, but Superiors seem to be very nice as well.

Paul - thanks for the explaination. After I posted, it hit me that the Cobra brakes are different and I didn't take that into consideration when I was typing.

Shift - I'll try to help out anytime I can...;)

Joe