Keep in mind that many u/d kits (if not most street u/d kits) have a pulley that's designed to OVERDRIVE the alternator - in order to speed it back up some to avoid charging issues. If you leave that one off - you may actually be making the charging issue worse. The key is compare the alt. pulley diameter to the one in the kit for the alt. If the kit pulley is SMALLER than the stock alt. pulley, then you want to put it on to speed the alt. up.
A smaller DRIVE pulley slows everything down. A smaller DRIVEN pulley (alt. is a DRIVEN accessory) speeds that accessory up.
A LOT of people have added u/d's thinking they were bolting on 5-8HP for about $80. In the end after adding a larger radiator and electric fans to solve cooling issues, and upgrading the alternator to solve charging issues (exacerbated by the electric fans) their cash outlay was more like $500-700 and their HP gain was more like 3hp, and most of that only above 3500 rpm which is achieved pretty rarely in normal street driving.
I would suggest trying the u/d's and see what you get. If they cause problems -- you'd probably be better off removing them and going back to the stock set up.
Intake, intake, intake.....the stock lower is the most restrictive piece on the motor. A port job by tmoss won't cost much more than u/d's -- but will deliver MUCH more without any downside.