Follow the instructions here:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index2.shtml
Skip steps 11 through 14. Hooking the black/orange wires up to the new alternator is dangerous. You should install a fuse block into yor new 4 gauge wire if you choose to purchase one that comes without it.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index2.shtml
Skip steps 11 through 14. Hooking the black/orange wires up to the new alternator is dangerous. You should install a fuse block into yor new 4 gauge wire if you choose to purchase one that comes without it.
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
PA Performance has the wiring kit you need for the 3G upgrade.
It may be cheaper to buy all the parts you need separately, but the kit is pretty convenient.
It may be cheaper to buy all the parts you need separately, but the kit is pretty convenient.
nuts...
I just did this swap last weekend. Now it looks like I have revisit it to remove the black/orange wires
It does work quite well though, well worth the effort.
BTW, I got my 4G wire from NAPA, they had a spool of it. I had to ask though, it was in the back.
I had gotten my fusible link from Autozone previously and what I thought was enough 4G wire...
I just did this swap last weekend. Now it looks like I have revisit it to remove the black/orange wires
It does work quite well though, well worth the effort.
BTW, I got my 4G wire from NAPA, they had a spool of it. I had to ask though, it was in the back.
I had gotten my fusible link from Autozone previously and what I thought was enough 4G wire...
I just did the 3g instal this past weekend and instead of the fuselink bull$hit, i decided to throw a 120a circuit breaker in there. The fuses are expensive and i didnt want to be rewiring a fuse link in the middle of the freeway so i went with the 4g wire and the breaker....works amazing...charges like crazy at idle too!!
I did the same thing 6 months ago when I added my 4ga wire. Now that I think about it, I think I got my 140amp circuit breaker at a local car audio shop and I think it was like $40. If you were to blow a couple 140amp fuses, the circuit breaker would pay for its self pretty quickly as those fuses are like $10 each if I remember correctly. Also, they're rated to "throw" at a higher % of load than 100%, so you could probably even use a 100amp for better results - I really doubt you'll push 140 amps through there very often anyway unless you're revving to 6 grand. I don't know though - consult Jrichker and the others about the technicalities of it.ninety15.0 said:
Here's a picture of it installed though:
Dont let those wires scare you , they really have nothing to do with the 3G install. The only wires that matter in his pic are the thick red ones. The rest are just harnesses that have found there way out of their sleeves for one reason or another. My fuse is installed where the stock airbox use to be, thats why it looks so much cleaner. If I put it over by the battery is would look similar to his install.
Well, I guess you could omit all of those wires, but you wouldn't be able to drive the car. Your car has all of those wires there now except the big red ones. Pull that pretty plastic coil cover away and you'll likely see the same situation (minus the 4ga wires and circuit breaker) in your car. The circuit breaker is the thing in the black ovaldec322 said: