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3-link, air bar, tri 4-link

  • Thread starter Thread starter Travis77
  • Start date Start date Apr 1, 2006

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
0
16
Baytown, TX
Apr 1, 2006
#1
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #1
Been reading past threads about rear suspension setups here, lateral-g, and pro touring, along with cc. Still having a hard time deciding on what to do.
If you were to start from scratch on a 67 fastback, what setup would you lean toward? The only option I'm ruling out is the infamous T-5 IRS. At 8k for 9" it is just out of my price range. I am going to have to replace both rear frame rails and more than likely go with a custom fuel cell that will work with the mini tub. Because of the terrible mini tub, I am going to start from scratch. This will be primarily a street car that will see some 1/4 use as well. So would you go with a MM, Steada, Martz, or just redue both frame rails and keep my flexa form fiberglass leafs with caltracs. The leafs are in the car, but feel way too firm for the street. Can't remember the spring rate, but they said I could trade them in on softer ones. I really like the idea of a 3-link with coil overs. Looks are great, adjustable ride height, and with a 3 link would perform great on the drag strip. Not concerned with packaging, because I can easily modify rear seat tunnel, and tail pipe do not have to come all the way out from the car. Has anyone installed the ari bar setup? What would be the round best for me, if starting from scratch? Hate that it's another long winded post, but like to let everyone to know what I'm dealing with. Thanks again guys.
 

brianj5600

Active Member
Sep 19, 2003
1,964
2
39
Middle TN
Apr 1, 2006
#2
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #2
I thought about a 3 or 4 link set up with similar use in mind and concluded that since I am not going to competitively road race, leafs will work for me. If any comprimizes are made, the performance benefit of 3 or 4 links dwindle. Air bar suspension is made to easily install, not all out performance. I doubt there is any gain in performance over a good leaf set up. 3 links are popular now, but w/o careful engineering IMO it would be easy to build an ill handling car. For me it seemed like a lot of work for a car that will not be seriously raced. I think backroad or even OT fun would be about the same with well set up leafs or high dollar coil over suspension.
 
J

jterry831

Member
Apr 25, 2005
38
0
6
Apr 1, 2006
#3
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #3
I guess it depends on what you want to do. I am going to do the air bar rear and air ride front when I get around to mine. I like the low stance when aired out, yet have the ability to adjust the ride height. There was an article on the air ride fastback in one of the magazines a while back. They flogged the thing around a track and the air ride wet up worked awesome according to the writers. Check out this link:http://www.airride.com/techarticles/WR0183open.pdf

It is suppoed to be a bolt in to a factory setup, so if it isn't out your price range, this is my choice.
 

70vert

New Member
Dec 31, 2004
722
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Apr 1, 2006
#4
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #4
EvM 3-link

is what I'm going with . Over at corner-carvers they like 3-links, and the Air Bar seems too much like the 4-link Quadrabind on recent mustangs. I think it was due to the short upper arm? don't quote me on that, read up at corner-carvers. Which 4-link would you be thinking of?
I'm going with the EvM 3- link for a few reasons:

1. Cost. At a (projected) $2,600 It's just low enough for me to consider, otherwise I'd go with flex-a-forms, the EvM Watt's, and some sort of traction control device.

2. Ease of ride height adjustment. Then I don't have to mess around with leafs to dial in the ride height.

3. Exhaust routing. They *claim* no interference with over-the-axle exhaust. We'll see . . .

4. Elegant design, at least on the Watt's. I just think it looks purty.

What I'd REALLY love is a Satchell link (angled arms point together under the axle) 4-link so I wouldn't need the Watt's, but nobody produces one and the cost would probably be higher than the 3-link plus Watt's. Check out this site, it speaks volumes:

http://www.automotivearticles.com/Suspension_Design_2.shtml
 
M

mtbdoc

New Member
Nov 2, 2003
245
1
0
Apr 1, 2006
#5
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #5
I see you have done the TCP/Unique front conversion...are you convinced it was worth the $$? I am considering all options [except Griggs] for my '65. Of course, I am also awaiting more info from the SN65 guys on their Mustang/Ferrari plans!

As far a Satchell, Louie was working on one, but last time we talked, he said it wasn't going to work. Haven't heard from him in a while, though. His website does have a drawing: http://g-machine-performance.com/rear-satchell.html
 
J

jterry831

Member
Apr 25, 2005
38
0
6
Apr 1, 2006
#6
  • Apr 1, 2006
  • #6
.
 

70vert

New Member
Dec 31, 2004
722
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Apr 2, 2006
#7
  • Apr 2, 2006
  • #7
I'd do TCP, but yeah

not to go too too :OT: , but I like the ability to fine tune the ride height, and I do buy the concept that the lower mounting point lets you get away with better ride quality and still have a high enough spring rate to help with roll. I ended up putting a stiff front sway bar (Cobra Automotive hollow-tube 1 1/4") and plan on trying a softer shock setting.

It feels great on the front, but the un-subframe-connectored convertible body and the original leafs and bushings in the rear make it hard to get the most out of the front. I just don't have the confidence to corner at the limit until I get the rear done. But so far, love 'em.

I would also investigate the RRS and the Ron Morris now sold by Mustangs Plus as well. And if ride height adjustability and the lower shock mount aren't a big concern to you, you could always get the Global West A-Arms.

Oh, and Unique's UCA ball joint socket is too beefy - I had wheel clearance issues - try the Unique or the Ron Morris, I think the Unique might be overbuilt there since they sell complete cars they probably have BIG liability concerns . . .

wish I could afford a Griggs but it's not in the cards . . .

mtbdoc said:
I see you have done the TCP/Unique front conversion...are you convinced it was worth the $$? I am considering all options [except Griggs] for my '65. Of course, I am also awaiting more info from the SN65 guys on their Mustang/Ferrari plans!

As far a Satchell, Louie was working on one, but last time we talked, he said it wasn't going to work. Haven't heard from him in a while, though. His website does have a drawing: http://g-machine-performance.com/rear-satchell.html
Click to expand...
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
0
16
Baytown, TX
Apr 2, 2006
#8
  • Apr 2, 2006
  • #8
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I have decided between Evolution's kit or Martz kit. Does anyone have first hand experience with either? I think the air bar is out because it probably will not go with the over all look I'm after. Already have GW front coil over kit and I want something that could add to the performance factor. Thought of going with bags, but I'm tring to score on a 69 fastback to go that route with. I do not know what the benefit of running an air bar rear with the gw front, other that ride quality. Having a cowl hood, with fatties in the rear with 418 stroker, a coil over rear would just belong back there.
 
M

mtbdoc

New Member
Nov 2, 2003
245
1
0
Apr 2, 2006
#9
  • Apr 2, 2006
  • #9
EvM kit is in production. Year One built their 2+2 using Martz f & r suspension...but no real data on it.

If I hadn't already done all of the rear construction on my 'vert, I would really look at the air-bar setup. This car will never be a handler, and the ability to 'slam' it would be kind of fun...as well as stiffen/lift the rear a little bit when the blown 408 gets uptight and nasty.

70vert, I appreciate your input. The RRS stuff is absurdly overpriced for what you are getting. A strut system won't give as good of a camber curve as simply doing the shelby drop...or go 1.75" for even better results. What I would like to see is an INTEGRATED front solution w/ semi-reasonably priced brakes and R&P. That was part of my decision 2.5 yrs ago w/ the R&C motorsports front kit. I refuse to pay $2000 for a rack. That is robbery. Same for many of the brake kits out there.
 
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