306 and stock radiator: will it work?

fiveoho

15 Year Member
Apr 28, 2005
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on a mild na 306 setup ( check sig for details ) will the stock radiator cut it?

i hate to invest $300+ into a fluidyne if i dont need it but at the same time, all this $$ i will have in the motor - i dont want to chance it either. i dont want to mess with universal stuff and get into all the fab work. just a drop in replacement.

can i use the stock one or do i need to upgrade?
are they any other options as far as using the stock one and replacing the fans with larger ones or changing the thermostat?

thanks in advance
 
of course itll work. when i had my 306 back in the day, i ran the stock radiator and it worked fine. you can change the thremostat if you want to. most people do that in the beginning. i used a 180* tstat.
 
No you do not need any special radiator. I am running a similar set up and my car runs cool ALL the time. Just get a 180 dg thermostat and get the fans programmed like I did to come on earlier. The stock program med fans comes on way too hot in my o.

You will notice no difference after you do that whether buying an expensive rad or not and will have wasted your money. Now if you s/c I would upgrade but only then. Good luck.
 
preciate it guys. i was hoping to be able to use the stocker. plenty of other places that extra cash can go :rolleyes:

how do you program the fans to come on earlier?
 
No need to buy a tune simply for the fan to come on sooner. I wired a 3 position switch on mine to pin 17 on the ccrm. Pos 1 connected the pin to its normal wire to have the high-speed fan function normally. Pos 2 (centered) was dead, and Pos. 3 grounds the pin to run the fan full time high speed. Wore out my fan bearings a little faster though, but in Louisiana summer heat with a stock rad and an Iron headed 306, I stayed right around 200 degrees most of the time, 210 with the A/C on, 215 in traffic.

Of course, with the Fluidyne I never broke 195 degrees regardless of AC or no AC, traffic or no traffic...
 
SVTCobra306 said:
No need to buy a tune simply for the fan to come on sooner. I wired a 3 position switch on mine to pin 17 on the ccrm. Pos 1 connected the pin to its normal wire to have the high-speed fan function normally. Pos 2 (centered) was dead, and Pos. 3 grounds the pin to run the fan full time high speed. Wore out my fan bearings a little faster though, but in Louisiana summer heat with a stock rad and an Iron headed 306, I stayed right around 200 degrees most of the time, 210 with the A/C on, 215 in traffic.

Of course, with the Fluidyne I never broke 195 degrees regardless of AC or no AC, traffic or no traffic...


that method sounda a little cheaper. i just want to keep it in the 'safe zone' if i use a stocker.