351w help

mrfomoco

New Member

Apr 18, 2004

108

0

0

The Woodlands, Texas

Aug 19, 2004

#1

• Aug 19, 2004

• #1

I just put my engine back in after doing all that is in my sig. including a windage tray from milodon. Now i'm ready to prime my engine and i'm going at it for what seems forever with my drill and an oil pump primer on my oil pump drive shaft, which i also upgraded to an ARP one. I've got the drivers side valve cover on and I left the passenger side one off so that I could see when the oil had sufficiently cycled through the motor. I see nothing. Any tips? I'm at a loss and I just might go bald at 19 years old if I have to pull the motor out again.

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

3

36

Macon, Ga.

Aug 19, 2004

#2

• Aug 19, 2004

• #2

1.make sure there is oil in the pan(obvious)
2.make sure you're turning the pump in the right direction

you should have pressure after no more than 30 seconds or so. You should also be able to hear the drill being loaded down once the pump starts pumping.

 

mrfomoco

New Member

Apr 18, 2004

108

0

0

The Woodlands, Texas

Aug 19, 2004

#3

• Aug 19, 2004

• #3

Ok the drill is turning clockwise, is that the correct direction? And I just put 5 qts in so it should be good there. But the thing thats bugging me is the fact that I don't hear the drill coming under a load.

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

3

36

Macon, Ga.

Aug 19, 2004

#4

• Aug 19, 2004

• #4

I remember I had to use a reversible drill to prime mine, try counter clockwise

 

classic boost

Founding Member

Feb 3, 1999

709

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0

canton, oh

Aug 19, 2004

#5

• Aug 19, 2004

• #5

it's counter clockwise.

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

11,730

6

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south louisiana

Aug 19, 2004

#6

• Aug 19, 2004

• #6

Also , in addition to turning the oildrive counter-clockwise , you make sure the oil filter's in place Ask me how I know I've forgotten this little important thing off on two occasions wasting 10 quarts of fresh motor oil

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

1,945

13

69

Minneapolis

Aug 19, 2004

#7

• Aug 19, 2004

• #7

Wasting oil stinks, but at least you didn't drop the nut driver down into the oil pan!!

Boy was I kicking myself after that one!

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

2,445

2

48

San Diego

Aug 20, 2004

#8

• Aug 20, 2004

• #8

The best one I did was when I had the engine on the stand and I had just put in the fresh oil and just got done priming it. Then as I was putting the intake manifold one of the bolts that goes in the back part of the manifold slid all the way down to the distributor hole and right down to the pan. And I had no containers to empty the oil into. So I had to empty it into the original containers it came in. That was fun. That was the one and only time I didn't put tape on the hole.

 

mrfomoco

New Member

Apr 18, 2004

108

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0

The Woodlands, Texas

Aug 21, 2004

#9

• Aug 21, 2004

• #9

Ok guys I'm just a moron, and this was my first time putting the motor back together. I didn't realize that the oil pump driveshaft had to go in from the bottom. So tomorrow I get to drain my oil and try to remove the pan and pump with the engine in the car.

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

11,730

6

0

south louisiana

Aug 21, 2004

#10

• Aug 21, 2004

• #10

mrfomoco said:

Ok guys I'm just a moron, and this was my first time putting the motor back together. I didn't realize that the oil pump driveshaft had to go in from the bottom. So tomorrow I get to drain my oil and try to remove the pan and pump with the engine in the car.

Click to expand...

You're lucky you did this with a Stang, it's about the easiest car, you'll ever have to remove the pan on. Remove the bolt on cross member and you've got it made. Try removing the pan on say, my 68 Merc Monterey, without pulling the motor. Hardest part about your job is putting the pan back into place without disturbing the gaskets. Even that's a cinch if you use Felpro's one piece pan gasket. They've got some nifty little plastic studs that screw into the block, that hold the gasket in place, even while the motor's in the car. Screw the studs in, pop the gasket and pan in place, then start the other pan bolts. Then remove the plastic studs. Simple as s*%#