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3550 and d/s problem...Help!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter E90
  • Start date Start date Jun 10, 2004
E

E90

New Member
Aug 25, 2001
29
0
0
garland, tx
Jun 10, 2004
#1
  • Jun 10, 2004
  • #1
I put the trans in and slide the driveshaft on and it won't go in far enough. I'm left with about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch that won't go. WTF is wrong with it? This trans is damn near brand new. Please don't tell me it's the output shaft. If it is how much for a new one?

Thanks
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
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49
Jun 11, 2004
#2
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #2
you're not using an aod shaft are you??

aod driveshafts are longer. that's about all I can think.

the shaft doesn't have to slide in all the way, just far enough in to get it to line up with the rear end.
 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!
Jul 3, 2001
10,262
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Mill Creek, WA
Jun 11, 2004
#3
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #3
v8only said:
the shaft doesn't have to slide in all the way, just far enough in to get it to line up with the rear end.
Click to expand...

 

jrichker

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Dublin GA
Jun 11, 2004
#4
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #4
If you cannot get the yoke to slide all the way on the output shaft, there is a reason. The 3550 has a sliding stopper on the output shaft. Its purpose is to keep the small amount of fluid from draining out the back while shipping. If you push hard, the yoke will slide on and you are good to go.

When everything is right, there is about 1"-11/2" of yoke that sticks out of the trans.
 

cjman15

Banned
Apr 15, 2004
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Fairfield, PA
Jun 11, 2004
#5
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #5
so can you still use an AOD shaft on a T5? i'm doing a swap
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
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49
Jun 11, 2004
#6
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #6
9out of ten people use an aod shaft and claim it worked

the aod shaft has a balancer on it, and is actually maybe an inch longer. in our case, when we converted our notch to a t5, that extra inch made it too long to bolt up to the rear, and there was no way we were forcing it. My suggestion is to have a t5 shaft ready to go, or there is a chance you can get stuck and go out and have to get one.
 
1

1bad92lx

New Member
Mar 31, 2003
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Close to lynchburg, VA
Jun 11, 2004
#7
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #7
I went to a FMS aluminum d/s with my 3550 and it was about 3/4 inch too long also. I ended up cutting the d/s down on the band saw and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

later,

Matt
 
S

SmockDoiley

New Member
Jun 14, 2003
1,591
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San Diego, CA
Jun 11, 2004
#8
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #8
There is always a little that sticks out. As long as the surface is allowing the seal to seal and you are far enough in to engage the splines you are fine. If it butted up all the way then the unfinished part of the shaft could touch the seal and that isnt good. Also, the FMS aluminum shafts are designed for T5/AOD/3550 so I dont see how auto and manual shafts arent interchangeable since the FMS unit is a universal fit.
 
E

E90

New Member
Aug 25, 2001
29
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0
garland, tx
Jun 11, 2004
#9
  • Jun 11, 2004
  • #9
It goes in most of the way then just hits a point that it stops. If i cut it down then so the back would go on the rear it wouldn't have any movement on the output shaft if the car squatted. How much of the yoke needs to actually be on the output shaft to be safe if racing? This **** is driving me nuts. I may pick up a fms aluminum tonight but i think it's the damn output shaft. I looked up in there and it looked straight to me. I tried an aod one with no balancer on it and also another d/s that came out of a car with a 3550 and had worked fine on his.
 
E

E90

New Member
Aug 25, 2001
29
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0
garland, tx
Jun 13, 2004
#10
  • Jun 13, 2004
  • #10
Anyone have any ideas?
 
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