On a Mustang 86-93, the stator wire is the small white/black wire in the same plug as the two larger black.orange wires.
Remove the negative cable from the battery for safety reasons.
Black/orange wires get taped up out of the way and not used. Do not remove or mangle the plug on the end of the wires.
Small 3 wire plug used as is, no changes. It plugs into the same connector on the new alternator.
White/black wire on the plug where the Black/orange wires connect gets insulation stripped from it. Splice another wire onto it to make a Y. Solder the connection and use heat shrink tubing on it to cover the splice joint. Crimp a female 1/4" push on terminal on the new wire or use a connector from an old wiring harness.
Plug the 3 wire plug into the alternator.
Plug the white wire you spliced the into the little tab on the alternator.
Connect the fused 4 gauge wire to the alternator and the battery side of the starter solenoid.
Starter solenoid wiring with a Mini starter or 92-93 5.0 Mustang
I ran the 4 gauge wire under the front of the engine next to the 4 gauge wire for the starter power feed.
It came up the same path as the fuel injector supply lines, and gets bolted to the power output lug of the 3G alternator. The 125 amp fuse is mounted on a plastic panel bolted to the stock ignition coil mounts. One of side of the fuse has a 4 gauge wire connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid & the other to the 4 gauge power feed wire for the alternator.
Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Wiring is now finished. Check to make sure it is all neat and clean and everything is out of harms way. Start the car and check your voltage.
I had some 1" silicone aircraft heat shield tubing that I fed the 4 gauge alternator power feed wire through and tie wrapped & clamped it in place with some aircraft cushion clamps. That provided the wire extra protection from road debris and rocks. Some heater hose could be used to do the same thing.
I have an additional 4 gauge ground running from the power steering pump mount to the common chassis ground being pointed to in the photo.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Apart from the grinding I did on the mount bracket, there wasn't much to it. Rather than just grind a notch, I ground the whole web back to the thick part of the bracket. It looks much more factory that way.
See
WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one)
Parts Express:Wafer Fuse Holder
4 gauge black wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length)
Parts Express:4 AWG Black High Current Power Cable 1 ft.
4 gauge red wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length)
Parts Express:4 AWG Red High Current Power Cable 1 ft.
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25.
Parts ExpressISCONTINUED 4 AWG Ring Terminal 3/8" Stud 5 Pcs.
3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
Parts Express:3M 3/4" Black Heat Shrink Tubing 4 ft.
3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
Parts Express:3M 3/4" Red Heat Shrink Tubing 4 ft.
Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.
3G tech data:
See
http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
Mustang Central.net 130 amp alternator upgrade - excellent pictures of installation