3G Alternator swap

Ok Im in the middle of this swap and Im trying to figure out the wiring. Its not too complicated Im just confused by the white wires /w black stripes. There is one going to each plug (2 plugs) on the stock alternator and only one single wire going to the new alternator. Are these grounds? Do they splice into the green or yellow wires? Any help would be great. Thanks guys!


-Marc

Well it turns out you can just tie off those extra wires...I think. It runs ok so far. Let it idle to running temp. Lights, stereo, power acc. all seem to be running. The wires its turns out was the least of my problems. The alternator was out of a 2000 GT and was advertised as a direct fit, just need an adapter harness which was included, and a longer upper bolt, washer, nut, etc...well here we go. I fit the lower stock bolt, so far so good. Then I try to rotate the alternator up to line up the upper bolt and it catches on something...turned out to be the main accesory support. One of the ribs on the support was sticking out about 1/2-3/4 in. so I couldnt line up the holes. No problem right? Just grind it down. Well I dont have a grinder...but I do have a drill with some huge ass titanium bits...let work with it. After MULTIPLE slips, nicks, and other abrasions I manage to get it down to a point where I can use a file to smooth out the edges. After I get the upper bolt in I start torquing down everything. While Im tightening the lower bolt I hear a *SNAP*....WTF was that...The arm of the main support that attaches the alternator to the block snapped...F**K! As it turns out since the alternator was thicker I didnt need to tighten it down so much, most of the support was from the upper bolt. Well crap, big mistake # 1. I back out the bolt a little so things line up better...it still seemed to be snug, no play at all even with the broken arm. Then I start to look at the alignment of the pullies...the alternator pully sticks out about 1/4 in. more that the rest of the pullies... what else can go wrong!?!?!?!? Well the upper bolt is tightened ALL the way down so 1/4 is something I have to live with I guess. I thought I would get a wicked squeel from the belt or something but when I started it up everything seemed ok. There was enough side to side play in the other pullies that the alternator being out of line didnt seem to effect things too much but time will tell I guess? The good news is that its charging like Richard Simmons on crack. I blasted the stereo, with the lights on, blinker on, map light on and every thing else I could think of and the alt guage barely moved, nice and steady just above the halfway mark. Next purchase: A FREAKIN GRINDER! Oh yeah one of the 'slips' with the drill put a good sized gouge in my fuel rail...its not leaking but damn does that make me nervous...

Theres nothing wrong with the stock alt, I just had charging problems because of the underdrive pullies and a huge stereo. Although I dont want to part with it until I get the new alternator sorted out, just in case I have to revert. As it stand I have to put the stock pully back on the 3G cause the underdrive pully is too fat for the threads, the stupid nut keeps shaking loose. I just ordered a new Alt mounting bracket but its gonna be a little while before I get it. BTW does anyone know where I can pick up a fuel rail cheap? Yeah Scott my TPS is acting up a little too, the idle gets a little TOO rough if it sits too long. I need to get a digital volt guage before I can tinker though. Oh I called Meridian Performance about the rear main seal and he said he could do it for around $110-120. I think I may just save myself the trouble and have them do it, thats a great deal.

-Marc

Im interested in the rails. As far as "stock" is conserned Im not sure if mine are or not. They came with the car (I've only had it 3 months). How much would you like for them? Fire me a PM