Nice job. I just did my new 130amp 3g last week. I used a 125A mega fuse and holder mounted to the engine side of the driver's side strut tower. I ran 4ga wire from the alt to the fuse and from the fuse to the solenoid. Turned out very nice. I completely removed the 10ga wire and just ran the voltage sense wire including the fuse link alongside the new 4ga. and terminated it in the same place at the fuse. I also covered the 4ga wire with spiral loom wrap to keep anything from chafing through the insulation and turning my charging system into an arc welder. It works great!! The stock volt meter isn't very accurate so I used my Fluke meter to check voltage drops with all accessories and the stereo on. With everything on I'm dropping less than a volt at idle. I've got 14.4 with everything off at idle.
Did you do anything about the sloppy bolt hole on the top bracket? I've got a quick and easy fix for that! I posted it on TF when I got done but forgot to post it here.
Did you do anything about the sloppy bolt hole on the top bracket? I've got a quick and easy fix for that! I posted it on TF when I got done but forgot to post it here.
Most write-ups tell you to through bolt the upper mount with a 3/8" bolt. No big deal rally as it fits the alternator just fine. However, the original upper mount is significantly larger in diameter. It was enough to make me go hunt a spacer to bush the hole. Being lazy I rummaged through the stuff I had here at the house and found a 1/4" NPT pipe nipple that would actually start to thread into the upper mount hole. I know the hole isn't threaded, but we're talking galv. steel vs. aluminum. Guess who won
I'd take pics of my engine compartment, but after seeing yours, I'm embarrassed. I still can if a visual will help, but no laugin' dammit!!
EDIT: I was looking closely at your pics and it looks like your upper bolt hole is threaded on your alternator. Mine wasn't. I don't know if there's a difference in original application or what. It may not even be an issue in your case.
I'd take pics of my engine compartment, but after seeing yours, I'm embarrassed. I still can if a visual will help, but no laugin' dammit!!
EDIT: I was looking closely at your pics and it looks like your upper bolt hole is threaded on your alternator. Mine wasn't. I don't know if there's a difference in original application or what. It may not even be an issue in your case.
Maybe I need clarification. I always understood alternator ratings to be the maximum current the alternator could produce under max load.
Anyway, the table basically tells you how long it will take for the fuse to open at a given percentage of the current rating on the fuse. To do the math, "In" is the current rating for the fuse. Looking at the table, it says that it will take a minimum of 4 hrs for a 100 amp fuse to blow under 100amp load. and 2-30 minutes to blow under 135amp (135% of 100) load.
Anyway, the table basically tells you how long it will take for the fuse to open at a given percentage of the current rating on the fuse. To do the math, "In" is the current rating for the fuse. Looking at the table, it says that it will take a minimum of 4 hrs for a 100 amp fuse to blow under 100amp load. and 2-30 minutes to blow under 135amp (135% of 100) load.