Well before leaving for work this morning I decided to look at the plugs one more time (thanks highvolts for the motivation) and verify if too much antiseize had creaped close by the electrodes. What i have found is that the first plug passenger side had the procelin cracked in 2 places above the hex nut. Sky you were right on for this one. Bought a new plug, cleared the DTC and voila, no more hesitation.
Thanks for your help
Patrick
Thanks for your help
Patrick
Klaw, if your not sure as to which code indicates the new head/spark plug style. Try all the codes, as I'm quite certain that your local Ford dealer's parts dept, should be able to indicate the codes for you.
Good luck with that. Its not a problem with the tools, its a problem with the part. A wobble extender will not help the carbon build up on the smooth part of the plugs.
I don't agree. Using a straight extension if your ratchet handle isn't perpendictular to the plug your socket can break the insulator. On the other hand, the wobble extension can still transmit the rotational torque but will leave the socket centered over the plug.
We are all entitled to our own opinions. My buddy said the same thing. Than he broke a spark plug by using the wobble extension, switched to the "tool" and got the rest of them out with no problems. I always use it and have no problem.
What "tool" are you talking about? I use a 9/16 deep socket without a sparkplug rubber insert. After the plug is backed out almost all the way, I slide a piece of rubber vacuum line over the conductor tip and finish backing out the plug with the rubber and then use the rubber to retrieve the plug. I haven't broken one yet. All the plugs are easily accessible on these engines. On other engines where the plugs are tougher to access with a straight extension, I use a wobble extension or even a swivel on top of the deep socket.
I am interested in why some people have a lot of carbon buildup on the plugs an others dont? I first pulled mine out at 45K and had minor carbon buildup, I replaced the plugs because 2 were cracked. then put anti-seaze on the threads and in three months 3 of the 8 plugs loosend up so bad that I could turn them without a wrench. So do not put anti-seaze on the threads.
I run 60% of the time 93 octain with a race tune, could this be a reason that I have little carbon in the plugs?
Since I race alot I pull my plugs every couple of months to inspect and clean them.
I run 60% of the time 93 octain with a race tune, could this be a reason that I have little carbon in the plugs?
Since I race alot I pull my plugs every couple of months to inspect and clean them.
I agree on the top tier gasoline. I changed the plugs out on my 05 F150 5.4 3V at 30k miles and they came right out with no problems. They actually looked almost new with no gunk on them at all. I only used Shell gas in it so am doing the same in the Stang. I really believe its worth it over the cheap stuff.
and the funny part is that the cheap gas is usually not any less expensive than the best! gas is gas, the difference is in the additives that the brand uses in the gas. top tier gas has the best additives. QuikTrip is at the top of that list. I am not sure if it goes in any order or not, but QT will guarantee their gas. if you ever have a gas related problem with QT gas, they cover 100% of the expenses to fix it. thats why they are my number one choice. they are also extremely competitive on their pricing too, so that doesnt hurt.
The funnier part is the "Top Tier" gas stations all get their gas from 1 supplier in Michigan since there is only 1 refinery in this area (run by Marathon). However, the gas quality definitely varies from station to station. I feel it is MORE important to buy fresh gasoline than a specific brand.
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