4.10s not good on 5.0 motor ?

I think Grady has it right. Your future plans are really the key here. If you go power adder or H/C/I a year or two down the road, you will look at the "ideal" gear question in a whole new light. The same applies if you get serious about bracket racing.

IMHO, the difference between stock and anything from 3.73 to 4.10 is huge . . . HUGE. The difference among 3.73 to 4.10 is really not that big. And certainly the difference between 3.90 and 4.10 is nothing. Let me stress that point, 3.90 and 4.10 are the same gear (unless you are dialing in a bracket racer). You will simply never perceive the difference between 3.90 and 4.10 on the road - and neither will your wallet at the gas station. So if you are leaning toward that end of the spectrum, then definitely go with FRPP 4.10's.

Since you have a stick, you might want to think about 3.73's. I love my 4.10's, but since I got my H/C/I in this summer, those gears are really over kill (fun overkill none-the-less). And if you are definitely thinking about a heavy power adder (Kenne Bell) in a strickly street driven stang, then at least consider going with 3.55's.

Hope that helps.

I like my 3.08`s on the highway,no running out of steam compared to higher ratio gears like 3.55 and up,but I`m not looking at maximum off the line acceleration or performance with this car,so I`ll be keeping those 3.08`s.,even on the street with a 5spd,those 3.08`s rip pretty good for what they are for a mild bolt on type car.

3.73's
Good for street and track. Widely available.
Even on Ebay or out of some pickups.

the 2v 4.6 and 5.0 both rev to 5800. granted i bet the 2v can breath a lil better in the uper rpm stock for stock. The stock 5.0 just doesn't have much steam up top so i would prefer a gear that is not gonna keep me there all day, so 3.55s or 3.73s is probably perfect upgrade without being too overkill. i cant speak tho until i get gears done which one be for awhile,hehe i really dont like the stock 3.08s tho other then its nice for crusing

i still say 4:10's, im halfway thro 4th when i cross the 1/4 mile line.

TheDamned said:

Thanks for all the great replies guy...
I'm really divided here between 3.73s and 4.10s

I DONT plan to have huge power adders on the car in the near futur.

Click to expand...

If it's mainly for street use, I'd say go with the 3.73's. They are a little more flexible for street use, and you won't find yourself maxing out 4th gear like you will with 4.10's.

Also, then if you ever change your mind about slapping on a Kenne Bell, you already have a reasonable gear.

8950HO said:

I like my 3.08`s on the highway,no running out of steam compared to higher ratio gears like 3.55 and up,but I`m not looking at maximum off the line acceleration or performance with this car,so I`ll be keeping those 3.08`s.,even on the street with a 5spd,those 3.08`s rip pretty good for what they are for a mild bolt on type car.

Click to expand...

That's crazy. Let's not spread misinformation over the internet. You don't run out of steam with 3.55's, they pull much better than 3.08's in every gear. 3.08's basically suck on any car that is not extremely built. Even if my car was s/c to 500HP I would not use 3.08's.

The choice of rear gear ratio is really gonna depend on the use of the car
BUT
More than anything, peeps expectations don't always go hand in hand with the final results ... IMHO

You'll never see these gear threads go away cause until you have some experience with steeper ratios, you don't have any way to know what to expect.

Simple math will give the facts but other's opinions seem to sway ratio selection more from what I've seen on these forums over time.

Some of the members are all about the 1/4 mile thing and some are street only while some are a bit of both. Again how are you gonna use the car.

The trans type is also something that is so very important when choosing.

Its crazy to think a guy that is using his car with a focus on 1/4 mile performance with full tilt auto trans equipped with high stall tc and the like is gonna be a great combo to copy or mimic for your Stock Stick Stang that won't ever see but a simple bolt on or two.

Specifics and goals matter here.

For me and my choice of 373's, I can say this about what I've learned.

Application: Street Car 95% ... Weed End Toy Only
Trans: T5
Plans when stock: simple use of math to formulate the 373 ratio.

Went with self ported E7's. intake, headers, and the like with stock cam and the 373's were still great for that application.

Moved to current sig combo and the 373's are good, not great, for the same application. 410's would be better for this combo IMHO.

Bottom line is ...... ratio choice can be subjective more that factual with a lot of peeps cause when they put the gears in ...... the car did not respond as expected.

Grady

Jackie Chan - It isn't necessarily driver. Many factors determine the ability to grab/launch (ex. power, tires, pavement, temp, suspension, condition of suspension, track prep, gearing, etc.)

I'm going to post some info on what gears can and can't give you. More less, pros & cons

I would stick with FMS gears (better production tolerances - less whine/shimming).

Go with 373's or 3:55’s on a daily driver (that is my suggestion)...I'll put some info for your gear selection decision. If your worried about "hurting" anything the 373's will technically be better for you over the 410's...

373’s will be more daily driver friendly and if you get boost/nitrous later you won't run out of gear at the track and you will have less traction problems. Some that have actually had both gears were slower at the track with 410's over 373's and some also claimed no seat of the pants difference.

I run 2400 rpm at 70mph (I have 373's)…the 410’s will run higher closer to the 2600-2700rpm range with the 245/50/16’s I have on my car.

Here is how I look at when picking gears for a daily driver...To me the gearing of 410's or steeper on a daily driver is not worth it to me...you get worse gas mileage/more engine wear/and use your shifting components more (clutch/trans/etc)...around town...and I also look at it like this...when your cruising on the highway at 80mph (interstate) your cruising at roughly 3000rpm with 410's...that is HALF your 302's revving capabilities and that is in the overdrived 5th gear at CRUISE...not at WOT...I personally don't like the idea of having half the engines revving capabilities at just cruise. Also...what if an emergency comes up and you got to "get it"...you have to be there for someone or are running to the hospital...and running higher than 80mph...maybe running 4500rpm steadily (faster than 80mph of course)...during that emergency I don't think that would be a good time for your engine to let go on you...what do you think?

Then you have to factor in 410's or steeper cause my engine braking at higher rpms on the highway...go pull out somewhere and hold your car to 2500rpm or so (worse with gears) and feel the engine try to slow you down when you let off the gas...same similar occurance happens on the highway/interstate plus the wind resistance.

I know when I had the slipping clutch problem I could smell the clutch burn at a higher rpm cruise which in my case was comparing 2000rpm to 2500rpm. At the lower rpm I didn’t smell it but the higher rpm I could smell it. Just some things to think about when you think you want every little tenth out of your car (4:10’s)…I prefer a better overall performance personally…

Go 373's...I would rather want more (373's to 410's) than get to much (410's) and want less (373's)...get what I'm saying?

There will also be less drivetrain shock under traction with 373's over 410's...

The problem with 410's in an AOD is you only have 3 gears to work with at the track (effective gears anyways) and the gears will get you out of those gears quicker and you could lose your gearing powerband at the track.

Also if they were to convert to a t5 (pretty popular actually) then they are "stuck" with the higher revving 410's...I hate the "winding out" sound on the highway with a gear like that...

On the listing of "pros/cons" of a mod like gears. I have stressed that in a couple choice threads, for example on shorty vs. longtube headers. Longtubes will get a better midranging power over the shortys (so the pro is more power) but some forget to mention the cons of it which are buying a matching mid-pipe (more money and aren't able to use the stock mid-pipe) along with ground clearance issues (especially on a lower car) and also the difficulty of install is "stepped up" quite a bit when trying to get longtubes in. It also can cause heat-soak issues and steering column clearance/rubbing issues. The potential purchaser has to ask themself is the extra midrange worth it? Then you get your answer...

So I ask...are the 410's (a tenth or two quicker at track to a matched combo over 373's) worth it? (more engine/drivetrain wear/worse gas mileage/and a couple other "cons" listed above in my post)...again the potential driver/purchaser has got to ask themselves what they want

willys1 (member on this site) actually was slower at the track in his bolt-on car with 410's than he was with 373's...

To often people go "drive" a friend's car with gears and go have fun in the car and don't drive it normally or thing of longterm effects with normal driving. They often just use their SOTP meter to determine what gear they want but when a final gear ratio effects all different parts of you and your car...I think it is best to not try a gear ratio "drag strip style" but "daily driver style"...

I have rode and drove in every car except one with 4:56’s and I see easily how the 4:10’s and especially 4:30’s are overkill for a daily driver. One trip on the interstate will let you know…

Also on the 200rpm difference (I actually think it is a bit more) but to put that into perspective since I ride at 2400rpm at 70mph I run 2600rpm at 80mph but that is a "big" difference in the feel of the car. Just as well you will be even more limited with the 410's pushing nearly 3000rpm just at cruise Every time I drive on the interstate with the 373's I just can't imagine having 4:10's…


Again good luck with your choice

5spd GT said:

Jackie Chan - It isn't necessarily driver. Many factors determine the ability to grab/launch (ex. power, tires, pavement, temp, suspension, condition of suspension, track prep, gearing, etc.)

Click to expand...

if all things are the same, the ability of the driver is why there would be a loss of traction in a bolt on car. people are saying you wont hook at all with 4.10s, well i have cut multiple 1.90s on street tires with them, that is what i am saying.

Let me add one thing to this thread...

If your car has an AODE, you NEED 4.10s or numerically higher gear. The AODE's first ratio is very weak compared to the T5s, and you'll need more gear to compensate.