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4 Cylinder T5 In My 5.0...

  • Thread starter Thread starter jrp27540
  • Start date Start date Mar 20, 2017
J

jrp27540

Active Member
Sep 9, 2016
173
35
38
Mar 20, 2017
#1
  • Mar 20, 2017
  • #1
All,
I purchased this 88 5.0 LX last November. I have noticed a strange "squeaking/rattling" noise coming from the clutch/bell housing area while driving down the road. When you push in the clutch just a bit, the sound goes away. When I was under the car looking around, I figured I'd pull the T5 identification numbers to do a bit or research. Come to find out, I have a 4 cylinder T5 out of a Tbird (1352-155)! Needless to say I'm heartbroken as I wasn't planning on having to change transmissions.... Is there any issues with me keeping this trany in place till I have the resources to change it back to a V-8 T5? When I go to change it out, will the bell housing and driveshaft be compatible?

Thanks!
 

5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
May 15, 2002
1,785
1,130
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Indiana
Mar 20, 2017
#2
  • Mar 20, 2017
  • #2
I ran a 4 cyc t5 behind 5.0 with no issues. It will be fine just dont beat on it too hard.

The noise you hear is the throwout bearing.
Its possible Your clutch cable may have too much slack in it letting the pressure off the bearing.

I am pretty certian the bell housing is the same. The driveshaft is the same. The flywheel is the same, you will need to change the input shaft pilot bearing in the flywheel. The 4 cyc t5 is same case as the v8 just weaker internals. And input shaft is smaller
 
Last edited: Mar 20, 2017

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Mar 21, 2017
#3
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #3
It's not necessarily the materials that make the 4 cyl weaker, it's the gearing. The gearing is shorter, which means torque multiplication, which means increased chance of shearing teeth off.
 

5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
May 15, 2002
1,785
1,130
233
Indiana
Mar 21, 2017
#4
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #4
I ran that 4 cyc t5 behind the mass air efi controlled 5.0 in my 66 coupe. I ended up shredding 3rd gear. I shifted into 3rd around 40 mph and apparently it didnt go all the way in gear. It broke the teeth off 3rd.

Prior to that I did some spirited driving and lots of burn outs with no issues. I even took it to the track a time or two.
 
Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
J

jrp27540

Active Member
Sep 9, 2016
173
35
38
Mar 21, 2017
#5
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #5
Thanks for the feedback gents. I dont get to drive it that often, so I should get some more mileage out of it. I just wanted to make sure no damage could occur outside of the transmission itself. The rear main seal needs replaced BAD. I'm just going to have to live with the bad seal until I am able to change the trans as I dont want to pull it all apart twice. It would be nice if I could just rebuild it with the correct internals and input shaft, but this trans does not have the required connector on the case for the neutral safety switch... Well looks like I found the next priority on the rebuild list
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Mar 21, 2017
#6
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #6
That's the gear that will always go first. 3rd is located in the middle of the mainshaft, furthest away from any support, so when you load up in 3rd, the gears try and separate. When they do spread, the teeth engage in a thinner location, and just strip the gears.

Input shafts tend to grenade on clutch drops with sticky tires.
 
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5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
May 15, 2002
1,785
1,130
233
Indiana
Mar 21, 2017
#7
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #7
jrp27540 said:
Thanks for the feedback gents. I dont get to drive it that often, so I should get some more mileage out of it. I just wanted to make sure no damage could occur outside of the transmission itself. The rear main seal needs replaced BAD. I'm just going to have to live with the bad seal until I am able to change the trans as I dont want to pull it all apart twice. It would be nice if I could just rebuild it with the correct internals and input shaft, but this trans does not have the required connector on the case for the neutral safety switch... Well looks like I found the next priority on the rebuild list
Click to expand...

Its not hard to swap. If it needs rear main Id get it done. That t5 will last you a long while. Hard telling how long its been in there.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Mar 21, 2017
#8
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #8
jrp27540 said:
It would be nice if I could just rebuild it with the correct internals and input shaft, but this trans does not have the required connector on the case for the neutral safety switch... Well looks like I found the next priority on the rebuild list
Click to expand...

I believe you could simply find a correct top cover plate, and shifter rail from a late model t-5 and it will swap over. Then you just need the pin and sensor.

The 4 cyl T-5 can definitely be rebuilt to stronger specs. The T-5 in my car was originally a 4-banger T-5 that I swapped guts and built into 90-93 T5 specs. The later 4cyl are world class, so a lot of the various parts are compatible, I just had to change out the input and countergear and 2nd and 3rd gear. 5th was the same and all the synchros were the same.

I regret not building to Z-spec gearing at the time, as the kit was $400ish back then. Now it's almost 2x that cost
 

5.0Droptop

...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
May 15, 2002
1,785
1,130
233
Indiana
Mar 21, 2017
#9
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
I believe you could simply find a correct top cover plate, and shifter rail from a late model t-5 and it will swap over. Then you just need the pin and sensor.

The 4 cyl T-5 can definitely be rebuilt to stronger specs. The T-5 in my car was originally a 4-banger T-5 that I swapped guts and built into 90-93 T5 specs. The later 4cyl are world class, so a lot of the various parts are compatible, I just had to change out the input and countergear and 2nd and 3rd gear. 5th was the same and all the synchros were the same.

I regret not building to Z-spec gearing at the time, as the kit was $400ish back then. Now it's almost 2x that cost
Click to expand...

I had a t5 in my 87 notch. It had D&D hardend gears with some other goodies like billet sync keys I could mat the gas and drop the clutch on mt drag radials. It would hook and go. 1.8 60ft it held up to that abuse no problem.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Mar 21, 2017
#10
  • Mar 21, 2017
  • #10
5.0Droptop said:
I had a t5 in my 87 notch. It had D&D hardend gears with some other goodies like billet sync keys I could mat the gas and drop the clutch on mt drag radials. It would hook and go. 1.8 60ft it held up to that abuse no problem.
Click to expand...


I'll need to look into that. I need a T5 that will hold up to my new engine combo. I have a parts T-5 I could rebuild, but need to look into a gearset. There are some good options these days...just pricey.
 
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