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4 wheel Baers installed; must bend brake lines. This kit any good? (link)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snail50
  • Start date Start date Jun 14, 2004
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Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
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0
Miami
Jun 14, 2004
#1
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #1
I did my Baer 4 wheel disc conversion this Saturday. I wasn't able to install the new M/C and proportioning valve because I need to bend and flare the new hardlines which came with the kit. I also need to cut and re-flare my rear hardlines so I don't have so much excess brakeline hanging out back there.

I'm thinking about getting this kit below. It seems like I'll be able to do everything I need to with it. Opinions, please.


http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...2424&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=brake+line
 

GT2K

Founding Member
Dec 27, 1999
311
0
0
Jun 14, 2004
#2
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #2
That's a decent starter kit if you currently have nothing. I recommend ordering a couple extra 3/16" inserts for the double flaring tool (they are the little black things used to make the second flare). They are relatively cheap and you get raped on shipping charges when you need more in the future. If you are working with stainless you will break/bend the inserts rather quickly.

Another option is to head to Home Depot where you can pickup those tools too. You just need to buy the inserts online somewhere. I found a really nice clamping setup at HD that I combined with the inserts to create a double flare tool:





 
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gp001

Founding Member
Jun 30, 2001
4,401
0
66
So. Cal.
Jun 14, 2004
#3
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #3
It may just be my juvenile angst, but here's my opinion
The best flaring tool I have found is the KD tool # 2190. It allows you to clamp the tube in and use both hands to do the flaring. You don't want the tube to move (pushed out or angle) during the flaring and you want to make sure the insert is pressing in perpendicularly. GT2K is right that those little 3/16 inserts break easy, especially with the kit you linked. If the tube and insert assembly are not perfectly perpendicular the nipple of the 3/16 insert will get pressed at an angle and snap. You will also have some jacked up flares (ones that won't work). Also, buy yourself a couple of small files (one round, one flat). The round one to smooth out the inside of the tube after cutting (so the insert fits smoothly) and the flat to bevel the edge of the tube to make the flare. You may also need to file off any slight burs that are left after the flaring from the tube being pressed into the tool.

http://www.costplustools.com/store/show_product/?product_id=42179
 
S

streetgrande69

Founding Member
Nov 2, 2002
976
0
16
Splendora, Tx
Jun 14, 2004
#4
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #4
i think thats a pretty good kit, good price and everything you'll need, i got mine from napa, i already had the bender, and the cutter. i highly recommend getting a mini cutter also, especialy in the engine compartment!saved my life a couple times at work.

http://www.joesfalcon.com/gentip2/gentip2.html


as for the pm, no i haven't done the M/C yet, soon, maybe this next weekend. i drove it to work today, pretty damn satisfied!! when i do it, i'll e-mail you some pics and probably post them also! I also know what you mean about excess hard line out back, i need to redo my back to "clean it up"

you went from drums, so you had the bracket in front for the fittings to the frame, i don't because the bracket on a stock disc car is built into the soft line. i need to get a brackt for it.

a tip when doing hard line is use a wire coat-hanger to mock up the line prior to bending. then remove it and use it as a referance, the ship fitters do that on the subs when bending the miles of tubing on the boats.
 
B

blandq

Founding Member
Jun 10, 2002
146
0
16
Houston Texas
Jun 14, 2004
#5
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #5
I just completed a wilwood front disk, new MC, roll-stop, proportioning valve, and residual valve using stainless brake line and all 37 deg. flares for steel A/N fittings. I decided on A/N fittings for several reasons:

1. Reliability
2. Minimize quantity of mixed fittings
3. One stop shopping for all hydrolic, fuel, etc. fittings (summit)
4. Far easier to flare and the tools can be used all over the car.

That said, it isn't cheap! Stainless is not cheap, bending and flaring takes time and some A/N fittings are $20+. I did it so that I can independently modify and repair hardlines at will in my garage from easily obtained raw material vs. a dependance on old, new, aftermarket "mustang" parts.

The results are outstanding. Not only do I have brake lines that should out live the car but the look fantastic.

PS: I did my own fuel lines too.....bending 3/8 stainless though does require a little more ummmph!


-Q
 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
0
0
Miami
Jun 14, 2004
#6
  • Jun 14, 2004
  • #6
thanks for the replies, info, pics, and links! (*prints page for future reference*)

GP001: that one took me a few seconds. LMFAO. thanks for sharing the info anyway...
 
S

streetgrande69

Founding Member
Nov 2, 2002
976
0
16
Splendora, Tx
Jun 15, 2004
#7
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #7
well, today was a day off because i was volenteered to work till 1 last night.

anyway i took advantage of the time off and bent some lines. here is a pic of the end result. there are more on the page at the bottom in my sig "my 1969 grande"

hope this helps you out on the bending.

 
S

Snail50

Founding Member
Mar 24, 2001
787
0
0
Miami
Jun 15, 2004
#8
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #8
Thanks, Eric. Looks like a clean setup. How are you planning to configure your proportioning valve?

I ordered that kit in the link I posted. I also got several more 3/16" flaring inserts with it, and 25' of tubing and a bunch of connectors (I might get the urge to replace all my hardlines with stainless....
 
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