The definitive SN95 GT to Cobra brake upgrade. Part numbers and pictures.


May 17, 2020
Nova Scotia
1998 GT to Cobra front brakes

1) All from Rock auto.
2) $253 US plus shipping, taxes etc...
3) I spent probably $10 more and have lots of extra parts (hardware kit).
4) Full bolt on, no modifications.
5) Must have 17" wheels
6) Weight savings 7.6 lbs per side!!!

1) Brake pads - your choice. I used Bendix CFM412 x1. Came with shims but without required pins, washer and locks (see below).
2) Rotors. I used BR54087 x2
3) Calipers - new ** with brackets ** (this part number is the only one which will provide you with new brackets). Raybestos FRC10604N x1 and FRC10603N x1.
4) Brake line BH380366 x1
5) Brake line BH380365 x1
6) AC Delco brake pad hardware kit (included rubber isolators for the anti-rattle clips. No other brake pad kit seemed to have this so I ordered it). $11 insurance
7) Caliper sliding pin kit (with pins, washers and locks). Again, no other caliper, or pad kit came with these and you need them. Raybestos H5613 x1
8) Banjo bolts - I believe you can reuse yours but I didn't. One brake line came with a banjo bolt and one didn't, not sure whats up with that so order two to be sure. $5 insurance. H94702 x2.
9) I ordered extra crush washers, didn't need.

* When this all came, I had extra hardware, washers, anti-rattle clips but am glad as I mixed and matched. Some were stainless (use them!) and one parts bag had the rubber noise isolators for the anti rattle clips that no other hardware bag had. You'll have extra, and its difficult to know which kit includes exactly what. The above list will give you everything with extras.

* The calipers are not OEM, and have some sharp edges near the rubber dust seals. This is a budget casting!
* Unscrew the bleeder and try a banjo bolt before assembly to make sure it all fits and screws in and out properly. One of my banjo fittings was very rough threading in.. to the point I stopped and wondered if the casting was a different thread pitch than the metric 1.5 fine thread it was supposed to be. Very concerning at the start, but I said I have nothing to lose and threaded it in and out and no metal shavings appeared (it was tight and I was expected to see some). But it is holding pressure. Again budget casting.... not OEM.
* Get an 11 mm flare nut wrench for getting apart the old brake line, it grips well.
* The brake caliper and brackets have "L" and "R" stamped on them you won't mix them up, but keep note of the brake line and what side it is. The banjo holes can only line up one way thankfully which positions the brake line to the caliper. Use two (of your many!) crush washers and torque to 26 ft lbs.
* New brakes lines, crush washers and banjo bolts, torqued to spec and using a 11mm flare nut wrench first crack no leaks on either side. Pays to have new gear and clean assemblies!
* I have a pressure bleeder.... cracked the bleeder screw and voila! ... now to possibly proportion the rear brakes for the crazy nose dive...

Helpful video on assembling the calipers and brackets- thanks LMR! Search "LMR how to assemble SVE cobra style front brake calipers (1994-2004)"

IMG_5998 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_4873 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_3010 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_3745 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_9518 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_1348 by DRZED28, on Flickr

I was going to post progress pictures but once the caliper is assembled, and brake line installed off the car its much easier to flip the caliper over on a bench and slide the rotor into it and then take the entire assembly to the car. I used a bit of locktite blue on the bracket bolts (85 ft lbs!!)

IMG_8056 by DRZED28, on Flickr

IMG_7810 by DRZED28, on Flickr

.... the final result is nothing short of amazing for the money spent. The sweep of the pad is only on half that rotor surface you see, so I will likely paint the rotor "un swept area" with black caliper paint because if that starts to rust, it'll be painfully obvious. Anyway... enjoy!
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Fantastic write up, I was just thinking about doing this upgrade as well. Any plans on doing the rear as well?

So the Cobra rear rotor is 11.6" vs GT 10.5". Cobra rotor is thicker in the rear and the caliper is similar (38mm single piston), if not identical from what I'm seeing. The pads have the same surface area of contact (except Cobra's are slightly less thickness to compensate for the thicker rotor). So if the pad and caliper piston is no different than I don't think I'm going to benefit at all on the street with doing the rears. Possibly a better heat sink if I tracked the car, but even then I doubt it. Rear brakes lines are the same.

Aside from filling out the wheels a bit more visually, I don't think its worth the upgrade for me.


(big up to RockAuto for making this so darn painless.... they even have 180F thermostats loL!)
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