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400 HP 5.0 With A Stock Cam

  • Thread starter Thread starter tjm73
  • Start date Start date Nov 18, 2004
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tjm73

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2000
2,418
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48
Rush, NY
Nov 22, 2004
#41
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #41
burnout289 said:
someone mentioned that those heads weren't enough. what would necessitate the jump from 165cc to 185cc? my goal motor is a 5.0. probably carb to start, but EFI in the long run.
Click to expand...

That was me talkign about post #9, blue66tang's combo. Judging from his list of mods the 165's are onthe small end of the spectrum. He'd get more hp, IMO, from the 185 heads.

If you are sticking 5.0 and not going 331 or 347 to a race or near race setup the 165 would be good. You intake choice, your cam and carb and the intended rpm range would dictate the larger head.

Over the years I've come to develop an induction theory. For street biased cars, you want to use the smallest carb, smallest intake ports, smallest valves and the smallest camshaft you can to reach the power levels you desire. "Less is more."

This will keep it driveable and making more power where you are going to use it most.
 

burnout289

Founding Member
Jan 3, 2002
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36
sun diego
Nov 22, 2004
#42
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #42
ah, thank you for expanding on that. I always like to know WHY someone gives the advice they do.
 

blue66tang

Founding Member
Jan 20, 2001
1,092
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Medford, OR
Nov 22, 2004
#43
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #43
tjm73 said:
This will keep it driveable and making more power where you are going to use it most.
Click to expand...


This is no offence to you, but I realy get sick of all the magazines and aftermarket manufactuers telling me what is streetable, and what isnt. I hate how cam manufactuers say a cam wont work on the street, or how certain intakes, heads, etc. Wont work on the street because they wont be streetable. I say bull, its all in the driver. All i care about is when i mash that throttle i want my butt to be glued to the seat. My car doesnt even begin making power till 3000 rpm, but i dont care. So i ride the clutch a little more than a normal car, sure it doesnt idle at a nice low 700 rpm, sure when i broke my 4.11 gears i couldnt use overdrive because it doesnt have enough power to pull its own weight at 1900 rpm. Sure driving threw town at 1500 its not even begining to sound smoothed out. I dont freaking care. I can drive it on teh street just as well as a man in his 2003 honda. It gets me from A to B, and when i want to i can feak my passenger out with a donut or i can freak him/her out with a 100+ mile pass down the free way. All i care about is wide open throttle. So i just get sick of people telling me when i buy things i wont be able to drive it on the street.

I dont know if that made sence i kinda just rambled.
 
N

nosaj122081

New Member
Mar 5, 2003
202
0
0
West Virginia
Nov 22, 2004
#44
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #44
I think alot of manufacturer's definitions of "streetable" has to do with being able to run pump gas, and whether or not you'll have to run a real loose converter, big compression, etc. to get things to work right. Course alot comes into play in whats REALLY streetable, most of the components going in my 393 aren't streetable in a 351, the cubes tame them down.
 

88 Fox GT

Active Member
Nov 18, 2002
1,674
0
36
Iowa
Nov 22, 2004
#45
  • Nov 22, 2004
  • #45
blue66tang said:
Yep and i like setting the timing, setting the fuel pressure, tuning some air screws, and making some jet changes with my CARB.
Click to expand...

That all requires tearing stuff down and "guesstimating" what runs best. Blah! LOL j/k
 
T

tjm73

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2000
2,418
2
48
Rush, NY
Nov 23, 2004
#46
  • Nov 23, 2004
  • #46
blue66tang said:
This is no offence to you, but I realy get sick of all the magazines and aftermarket manufactuers telling me what is streetable, and what isnt. I hate how cam manufactuers say a cam wont work on the street, or how certain intakes, heads, etc. Wont work on the street because they wont be streetable. I say bull, its all in the driver. All i care about is when i mash that throttle i want my butt to be glued to the seat. My car doesnt even begin making power till 3000 rpm, but i dont care. So i ride the clutch a little more than a normal car, sure it doesnt idle at a nice low 700 rpm, sure when i broke my 4.11 gears i couldnt use overdrive because it doesnt have enough power to pull its own weight at 1900 rpm. Sure driving threw town at 1500 its not even begining to sound smoothed out. I dont freaking care. I can drive it on teh street just as well as a man in his 2003 honda. It gets me from A to B, and when i want to i can feak my passenger out with a donut or i can freak him/her out with a 100+ mile pass down the free way. All i care about is wide open throttle. So i just get sick of people telling me when i buy things i wont be able to drive it on the street.

I dont know if that made sence i kinda just rambled.
Click to expand...

No offence taken. Most people (in my experience) build a car all wrong and it's not well thought out at all. Manufatureres are trying to ensure that you get power gains, so they say this is or isn't streetable for a particular, commonly built engine configuration. At least this is what I think when I see this stuff.

My definition of streetable is outside the definition that most manufacturers seem to have too. Your definition is a little different than mine. To me wide open throttle is no where near as usefull as big part throttle torque. But a well designed combo will deliver results that one might think are a pain to deal with on the street while the same car in the hands of someone else may be what they consider a perfect setup for them.

And yeah you did ramble a little bit, but I hear you and I agree with much of what you said.

I was told many times, by many people that my drastic gearing change on my motorcycle wouldn't work, but it has worked quite well and I like it just fine.
 
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