400hp plus rad size in early stang?

66forfun · Mar 17, 2007

There are quite a few running 351's & 347's with plenty of hp.

What rads are you running and does it always mean cutting up the rad support???

347/vic jrs/aod combo going in this spring. Right now I have an aluminum downflow drop in 16.5 x 16.5 x 2.5 (surface area) rad with a 16in spal straight blade fan. I dont think the rad will cut it...lol. I was thinking of taking a cut off wheel to the raised portion of the support to get an opening of 24" then using a late model (80's) mustang rad with a high flow wp. & fan. any other options?

washMO66 · Mar 17, 2007

I run an aluminum cross flow two core maybe, I would have to look. It is really close to stock size and I got it off of a radiator store online for $169 and fabbed up some brackets, no cutting at all and my car with a 180 thermo runs right at 180 to sometimes 190 in heavy traffic.

65FBE2 · Mar 17, 2007

I have a Northern 2 core Alum and it works fine. The key is getting enought air flow. My brother is a engineer for Northern and he sugjests a good fan shroud and fan to keep the air flow up. He sayes the surface area is plenty if you just keep air moving through. I have a 347 400+hp motor. I put a good high flow flex fan on and a 12" electric pusher in front with thermosatic switch. The pusher only kicks in when I get in stop and go traffic. I am sure if I would listen to my brother and add a shroud, I could get rid of the pusher. I had it out last summer in 95 deg. heat at the CarCraft Nationals here and it was fine. I did add a 24lb cap though. If you do this make sure all the hoses and heater core are up to it!

chromedog · Mar 17, 2007

+1 for the northern...summit has a good deal on them...

DK832 · Mar 18, 2007

I have the stock refurbished radiator with a ~400HP 351W. Works NP, even at the track or rush hour traffic in summer. Just get a good water pump like Edelbrock or such.

66forfun · Mar 18, 2007

thanks for the replys.
I was running a stock wp (bosh) with the pass inlet and that matches the rad. The cooling system on the 289 was in great condition.

There is an edlebrock driver inlet on my shelf, to use it the rad would have to be swapped. pony up for a new rad and use the eddie? sounds like the old rad may stand a chance afterall...

what temp would you pull the plug when breaking in a new 347? See my dilemma? What is the width of your rads?

iskwezm · Mar 18, 2007

I run a Summit(northern) 28X19 core and just added a Meizere electric water pump with a Taurus fan.

dennis112 · Mar 19, 2007

Just to be different and to keep the stock appearance, I swapped out the 65' core support for a 68' and then installed a 68' 4 row copper radiator. I also installed a clutch fan. All other parts are stock 289 type stuff. I have Zero cooling issues with a 393w in that cramped 65' engine compartment and the radiator looks like it belongs there from the factory.

My car gets run hard, even on the hottest days the temp never gets to half way on the gauge and will immediately cool down once I start driving "normal" again.

SoCalCruising · Mar 19, 2007

Northern drop-in, here, and Hotrod electric fan with integral shroud. Works fine.

65FBE2 · Mar 19, 2007

The alum rad's will cool better than any copper rad. the reason is that copper is not strong enough to withstand the pressure if the tubes get any larger than stock size and that they have to be joined with lead that creates zones that do not transfer heat well. The alum rad's are all made of the same mat and are even welded with alum creating a better heat transfer zone . also because of the higher stregth they can put larger tubes in and get more flow and surface area to the fin's. You can also run a higher pressure cap on a alum for this same reason.
Hope this helps your decision.

68RCodeConv · Mar 21, 2007

I have a "stock looking" 20" 4-row radiator in front of my 347 stroker. HiPo 4-blade fan with stock shroud. No overheating problems even in Houston in August.

66forfun · Mar 21, 2007

sounds like im gonna be able to give the old cooling sys a try. factory style aluminum pump and 17in factory aluminum downflow, hope the spal can move enough air...hate to run a virgin engine hot...the becool rad setup of a similar size is rated to 350hp. i know its gonna be close, i should be well over that power level.

mustangguy289 · Mar 22, 2007

Hot rod electric fan, 4 or 3 row radiator, shroud combo, 180 deg thermo, 50.50 mix plus 1 bottle of redline water wetter, aluminum oe type water pump and i stay about 190 in texas summers of 100 + degrees, 180 all other times of the year.

iskwezm · Mar 22, 2007

66forfun said:
sounds like im gonna be able to give the old cooling sys a try. factory style aluminum pump and 17in factory aluminum downflow, hope the spal can move enough air...hate to run a virgin engine hot...the becool rad setup of a similar size is rated to 350hp. i know its gonna be close, i should be well over that power level.

the Spals work pretty good.I had a Be Cool and it worked great on my built 289, but couldnt keep up with the blown 347, so i sold it and loss mu butt.

mdjay · Mar 22, 2007

dennis112 said:
Just to be different and to keep the stock appearance, I swapped out the 65' core support for a 68' and then installed a 68' 4 row copper radiator. I also installed a clutch fan. All other parts are stock 289 type stuff. I have Zero cooling issues with a 393w in that cramped 65' engine compartment and the radiator looks like it belongs there from the factory.

My car gets run hard, even on the hottest days the temp never gets to half way on the gauge and will immediately cool down once I start driving "normal" again.

+ 1

allcarfan · Mar 23, 2007

I bought an afco chevy 3 core aluminum radiator. 19x22"

I bought it for $179 shipped to me from Ebay. The only thing is the upper radiator hose is on the other side, so you will have to run a different upper radiator hose

400hp plus rad size in early stang?

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