In case you missed it, I killed the #8 piston last fall at the drag strip. Here's the destruction pics...
After some researching on the net, I think the problem was that I didn't get enough clearance on the file fit rings. It seems like the #8 cylinder runs hotter than the rest and the rings expanded too much and didn't have anywhere to go but up when the ends met. I also may have damaged the piston from running lean.
I sent the heads to Fox Lake for repair. They fixed the damage, replaced two valves, cut all the valve seats, clean and grind the valves, and installed all new valve seals. Here's the finished product.
I picked up a '74 351w block locally. Clearanced it for the stroker crank dropped it off to the machine shop. I read that it should have at least .060 clearance between the rod bolts and the block, and the closest I measured after I was finished was a little over .070.
I was told the block was .030 over, but the machine informed me that it's .040 over. Of course they didn't tell me that until they were checking piston clearances with my .030 over pistons.
I went with Ross Racing -31.20cc forged pistons for 9.5:1 compression. I had 10.5:1 previously so I'll probably lose a little power, but I can make up for that with a turbo next year.
Old pistons removed from the rods
Ed Curtis @ FTI says my current cam will work great if I install it at a 110 centerline. I thought I had it at 112 centerline last time, but when I degreed it this time I came up with 110 installed exactly like it was before. I did it with the heads off this time, put a dial indicator on the #1 piston and when it stopped moving I set the degree wheel at tdc.
I got everything back from the machine shop last friday and started putting it all together. I got the rotating assembly installed, then the cam wouldn't go in.
Got it back, painted, and 7 pistons installed. Broke a ring installing the #1 piston. It came out of the ring groove and I crushed it with the ring compressor.
After some researching on the net, I think the problem was that I didn't get enough clearance on the file fit rings. It seems like the #8 cylinder runs hotter than the rest and the rings expanded too much and didn't have anywhere to go but up when the ends met. I also may have damaged the piston from running lean.
I sent the heads to Fox Lake for repair. They fixed the damage, replaced two valves, cut all the valve seats, clean and grind the valves, and installed all new valve seals. Here's the finished product.
I picked up a '74 351w block locally. Clearanced it for the stroker crank dropped it off to the machine shop. I read that it should have at least .060 clearance between the rod bolts and the block, and the closest I measured after I was finished was a little over .070.
I was told the block was .030 over, but the machine informed me that it's .040 over. Of course they didn't tell me that until they were checking piston clearances with my .030 over pistons.
I went with Ross Racing -31.20cc forged pistons for 9.5:1 compression. I had 10.5:1 previously so I'll probably lose a little power, but I can make up for that with a turbo next year.
Old pistons removed from the rods
Ed Curtis @ FTI says my current cam will work great if I install it at a 110 centerline. I thought I had it at 112 centerline last time, but when I degreed it this time I came up with 110 installed exactly like it was before. I did it with the heads off this time, put a dial indicator on the #1 piston and when it stopped moving I set the degree wheel at tdc.
I got everything back from the machine shop last friday and started putting it all together. I got the rotating assembly installed, then the cam wouldn't go in.
Got it back, painted, and 7 pistons installed. Broke a ring installing the #1 piston. It came out of the ring groove and I crushed it with the ring compressor.