4v Coil Packs

No way upgrading your spark system is going to add any power unless your getting "spark blowout", which only really happens when the pressure is high enough to cause the spark to not happen. If the pressure is high enough, the resistance becomes too high and the electricity wont arc across the spark plug. Unlikely your getting any spark blowout without a power adder.

I would spend that money on a hand held tuner and some Nitto NT555R's for the rear.

That won't matter unless you need the extra voltage to overcome additional resistance due to increased pressure in the cylinders.

I'm running MSD coil packs, but only because I was having some issues a while back, and thought my coil packs were bad, so I got the MSD units because I wanted to upgrade and they were cheaper. If I had it to do all over again with what I know now, I would have bought OEM. If I ever for a second think I might be having spark issues because of these MSD units, I will switch back to OEM in a heartbeat.

Do some research and see for yourself. Don't just read the stuff put out there by people trying to sell you something. I've been there, done that, wasted my money and don't want to see anyone else do it.

Since you've already got some good tires, what about some nitrous? Take a look at Maximum Motor Sports products; they have some really nice suspension and chassis stuff. I would recommend the full length subframe connectors. MGW has some really nice shifters also.

Also, just in case your not convinced, Kenne Bell sells a system (Boost-a-Spark is what it's called) designed to overcome these increase pressures and they don't recommend it unless you are experiencing spark blowout. If increasing spark voltage increase power, they would recommend it to everyone, but they don't because they know it wont increase power unless you've got spark blowout problems.

really? Weapon-X (who I'd buy from before GMS in my opinion) have dyno proven gains for 2v and 4v cars, claims are backed up on SVTP and a few other sites.

If it's true, then I'd like to see back-to-back dyno runs showing the gains with the same A/F ratio, timing, operating temps, and all SAE corrected.

It's just too good to be true. 30 rwhp for $550 and only a 10 min install??? something isn't right. It wont be the first time a company showed inflated gains from a part they are trying to sell.

If the increased HP is from a more efficient burn, which is the only way something like that could gain HP, then it would increase gas mileage as well by about the same percent. Why would Ford not have done this themselves?

Why don't you see tons of posts with, "I just installed these COPs in like 10 minutes and for only $550 and got 30rwhp and 3 more mpg!!!!!"?

It's probably because it's just not true.

i'm having no issues running mid 600 HP with a COMPLETELY STOCK ignition system

they arent worth buying unless yours are all going out and even then i would buy new ones from ford

No you're not right. An ignition system doesn't make power based on the capacitors. It makes power based on the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber.

You'd be smarter to index your plugs than spend time and money on an aftermarket ignition system for reasons already mentioned.

Your Mach 1 is not an "old hotrod." An "old hotrod" had an ignition system designed for low compression. When a high compression engine is installed you need a stronger ignition system to get a spark. So an "old hotrod" needed an upgraded ignition system over the stock one because THE ENGINE WASN'T STOCK. Hope that was clear

Spark plug gap is increased if you need a stronger spark (you know, higher than stock compression) and have an upgraded ignition system. The increased gap increases the voltage required for the spark to fire. If you have higher compression than stock and an aftermarket ingition system to accomodate the higher voltage, you have no reason to use the stock plug gap. You would then experiment with increased gap to find the smallest gap that works. You'd have to watch so the strap eletrode doesn't contact the piston, so you are limited somewhat as to max gap. On a stock ignition system this is a sure way to fry the ignition. You'd only do it on something that was entirely aftermarket and only because you had to.

And can we all agree that just because something was done on an old hotrod doesn't mean it should be done on a new factory car? At the very least understand why it was done before running off and duplicating it.

I hope you are getting the fact that these "old hotrod tricks" are coming from engine swaps, not getting more power out of a bone stock machine.

I wouldn't be surprised if the E3 plugs cost you power. That's just a retarded idea. And their graphs and "data" are so obviously fabricated it's entertaining.

You'd see a gain from a dyno tune on a stock car with no parts changed. I don't see why you'd throw money away on an aftermarket ignition and crappy plugs first, though.

some for some against, here's some reading...

Stock COP's vs Aftermarket COP Discussion. - Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com

What coil Packs to go with? Weapon X good? - Page 3 - The National Lightning Owners Club Inc

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/755793-weapon-x-cops.html

Hooray for NOS!

and avoid gms... imo

mustangguy506 said:

...I'll pass on the coil packs until the need arises like everyone else here has said...

Click to expand...

Smart decision.