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5.0 conversion questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter shoguun
  • Start date Start date Jul 30, 2009

shoguun

New Member
Jul 28, 2009
184
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0
Jul 30, 2009
#1
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #1
I have a 5.0 that im converting to a carb engine that im going to put in my 68. Its a rollercam engine. i was wondering what size holley would be good to fit it.

Also its a rear sump oil pan and it needs to be a front sump. What do i need to get to convert it to a front sump cause the oil pump pickup is geared for a rear sump.

last if there are any things the i need to know about the conversion
 

golf4283

Active Member
May 30, 2003
1,253
1
39
Orland Park, Illinois
Jul 30, 2009
#2
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #2
You need to move the dipstick tube to the front on the timing chain cover(Passenger Side). If a hole isn't present you can drill one. You can then plug the hold (which is on the driver side for the original) with a dowel or something else.

As far as the oil you just need a front pan pickup. The pump itself is the same whether it's front or rear pan.

Lastly a 600-650CFM should be more than enough for that engine.

I have an '85 roller engine in my '66 and these are three things that I did, nothing more to get the engine in. Although I went with an edelbrock just cause I feel they're a bit easier to tune right out of the box.
 

shoguun

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Jul 28, 2009
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Jul 30, 2009
#3
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #3
how do you know where to drill the hole
 

golf4283

Active Member
May 30, 2003
1,253
1
39
Orland Park, Illinois
Jul 30, 2009
#4
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #4
when I did mine I just bought the dipstick tube at the local parts shop and measured the hole size. I then bought the correct bit.

On the timing chain cover there is a flat spot on the passenger side that is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the pan with a bit of an angle outwards. After that just take the pan off to be able to see the correct angle you want and have at it. It's scarier to think of drilling the block then it is once you're done. After that I just used a little JB Weld or some other high temp sticky stuff to hold the dipstick tube in the hole and not allow oil to leak and you're all set!

Hopefully this helps. I can take some pics when I get home if you need them.
 

shoguun

New Member
Jul 28, 2009
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Jul 30, 2009
#5
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #5
ya pics would help definately.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Jul 30, 2009
#6
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #6
Why does he need to relocate the dipstick? Does it not work properly in the side of the block with a front sump oil pan? I was under the impression either location would work fine.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Jul 30, 2009
#7
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #7
jcode68 said:
Why does he need to relocate the dipstick? Does it not work properly in the side of the block with a front sump oil pan? I was under the impression either location would work fine.
Click to expand...

It's in the wrong location for a front sump pan. There's no sump there on a front sump pan.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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0
south louisiana
Jul 30, 2009
#8
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #8
golf4283 said:
when I did mine I just bought the dipstick tube at the local parts shop and measured the hole size. I then bought the correct bit.

On the timing chain cover there is a flat spot on the passenger side that is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the pan with a bit of an angle outwards. After that just take the pan off to be able to see the correct angle you want and have at it. It's scarier to think of drilling the block then it is once you're done. After that I just used a little JB Weld or some other high temp sticky stuff to hold the dipstick tube in the hole and not allow oil to leak and you're all set!

Hopefully this helps. I can take some pics when I get home if you need them.
Click to expand...
To determine the angle the hole needs to be, it helps to buy the dipstick tube first, then with the engine on a stand and with the oil pan off, bolt the timing cover in place, then the right side head. Then using the dipstick tube and the mounting tab on the tube, figure what bolt hole in the head the tab bolts to, then align the tube with the hole boss on the timing cover and the tab to the hole in the head. Drill away. The drill bit needs to be one size smaller than the portion of the tube that fits into the hole, so you'll have a press-fit with no sealer. Advance Auto and Autozone both stock SBF dipstick tubes and sticks in the chrome section.
 
P

phutch11

Member
Nov 14, 2005
328
2
18
Jul 30, 2009
#9
  • Jul 30, 2009
  • #9
Do a few google searches. When i did my swap, I found a great article online with plenty of pictures of exactly where to drill the dip stick hole. It's really pretty easy to do.

Have you decided what water pump to use? The stock 5.0 piece is reverse rotation and may put the lower radiator tube on the driver side of the car which may not match your radiator (not sure what year they switched sides).

If you don't want to keep the sperpentine system, just use the front dress from the 68 and you should be fine.

Good luck...
 

Shakin66

Founding Member
Jan 19, 2001
628
1
19
Waycross, Ga / Lake James, NC
Jul 31, 2009
#10
  • Jul 31, 2009
  • #10
Everything said is spot on and my only advise is to use "freeze plugs" in the newer blocks dipstick tube. I think they were 1/8" and you can punch the first one in and then a second one to make certain you have this possible oil leak fixed once and for all.
You may have to go to a good auto parts store or even a machine shop to get them but its time well spent.
 

Loup-garou

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2001
337
0
16
New Orleans, LA
Aug 1, 2009
#11
  • Aug 1, 2009
  • #11
The following website has a few photos of the timing cover mod:

http://www.marlincarsite.com/Falcon-swap.htm


Keep in mind that if you want to retain a "vintage" look, an early-model timing cover and water pump will bolt right on. Also, you'll need an electric fuel pump to use the late-model timing cover; there's no mechanical fuel pump mounting boss.
 

zm830101

New Member
May 16, 2005
116
0
0
warner robins, ga
Aug 1, 2009
#12
  • Aug 1, 2009
  • #12
Shakin66 said:
Everything said is spot on and my only advise is to use "freeze plugs" in the newer blocks dipstick tube. I think they were 1/8" and you can punch the first one in and then a second one to make certain you have this possible oil leak fixed once and for all.
You may have to go to a good auto parts store or even a machine shop to get them but its time well spent.
Click to expand...

all these solutions to the dipstick hole are killin' me. do it right. do it once. tap it for a pipe plug and never worry about it again.
 
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