5.0 conversion questions

shoguun

New Member
Jul 28, 2009
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I have a 5.0 that im converting to a carb engine that im going to put in my 68. Its a rollercam engine. i was wondering what size holley would be good to fit it.

Also its a rear sump oil pan and it needs to be a front sump. What do i need to get to convert it to a front sump cause the oil pump pickup is geared for a rear sump.

last if there are any things the i need to know about the conversion
 
You need to move the dipstick tube to the front on the timing chain cover(Passenger Side). If a hole isn't present you can drill one. You can then plug the hold (which is on the driver side for the original) with a dowel or something else.

As far as the oil you just need a front pan pickup. The pump itself is the same whether it's front or rear pan.

Lastly a 600-650CFM should be more than enough for that engine.

I have an '85 roller engine in my '66 and these are three things that I did, nothing more to get the engine in. Although I went with an edelbrock just cause I feel they're a bit easier to tune right out of the box.
 
when I did mine I just bought the dipstick tube at the local parts shop and measured the hole size. I then bought the correct bit.

On the timing chain cover there is a flat spot on the passenger side that is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the pan with a bit of an angle outwards. After that just take the pan off to be able to see the correct angle you want and have at it. It's scarier to think of drilling the block then it is once you're done. After that I just used a little JB Weld or some other high temp sticky stuff to hold the dipstick tube in the hole and not allow oil to leak and you're all set!

Hopefully this helps. I can take some pics when I get home if you need them.
 
when I did mine I just bought the dipstick tube at the local parts shop and measured the hole size. I then bought the correct bit.

On the timing chain cover there is a flat spot on the passenger side that is almost perpendicular to the bottom of the pan with a bit of an angle outwards. After that just take the pan off to be able to see the correct angle you want and have at it. It's scarier to think of drilling the block then it is once you're done. After that I just used a little JB Weld or some other high temp sticky stuff to hold the dipstick tube in the hole and not allow oil to leak and you're all set!

Hopefully this helps. I can take some pics when I get home if you need them.
To determine the angle the hole needs to be, it helps to buy the dipstick tube first, then with the engine on a stand and with the oil pan off, bolt the timing cover in place, then the right side head. Then using the dipstick tube and the mounting tab on the tube, figure what bolt hole in the head the tab bolts to, then align the tube with the hole boss on the timing cover and the tab to the hole in the head. Drill away. The drill bit needs to be one size smaller than the portion of the tube that fits into the hole, so you'll have a press-fit with no sealer. Advance Auto and Autozone both stock SBF dipstick tubes and sticks in the chrome section.
 
Do a few google searches. When i did my swap, I found a great article online with plenty of pictures of exactly where to drill the dip stick hole. It's really pretty easy to do.

Have you decided what water pump to use? The stock 5.0 piece is reverse rotation and may put the lower radiator tube on the driver side of the car which may not match your radiator (not sure what year they switched sides).

If you don't want to keep the sperpentine system, just use the front dress from the 68 and you should be fine.

Good luck...
 
Everything said is spot on and my only advise is to use "freeze plugs" in the newer blocks dipstick tube. I think they were 1/8" and you can punch the first one in and then a second one to make certain you have this possible oil leak fixed once and for all.
You may have to go to a good auto parts store or even a machine shop to get them but its time well spent.
 
Everything said is spot on and my only advise is to use "freeze plugs" in the newer blocks dipstick tube. I think they were 1/8" and you can punch the first one in and then a second one to make certain you have this possible oil leak fixed once and for all.
You may have to go to a good auto parts store or even a machine shop to get them but its time well spent.

all these solutions to the dipstick hole are killin' me. do it right. do it once. tap it for a pipe plug and never worry about it again.