5.0 roller block

[68RustBucket]

i need to purchase a 5.0 roller block for my 347 buildup. my main question is this ...

do junkyards typically have a plethora of them lying around? i have access to a few boneyards around here, but haven't had much opportunity to check their selection out. if a junkyard doesn't have one i can use, where else can i look for one that won't cost much at all?

 

[66P51GT]

My $0.02... buy a pre-assembled short block. By the time you find a block, have it machined, and purchase the internals, you will easily equal the price of a pre-assembled one. Unless of course, you already have the internals.

 

[68RustBucket]

i'm having an engine builder assemble it all for me. he suggested that i provide the block because it will be less expensive that way without any loss of quality due to the fact that he'd have to machine any used block he finds anyways. my only concern is being able to easily find a 5.0 roller block that won't break the bank

 

[ADub64]

You should be able to find one for under 100 bucks. For some reason, guys that are parting out a car think they are worth lots more. I have found some usable short blocks with rotating assemblies at local machine shops and scrap yards

 

[67efivert]

just a little tid but of info the block in crown vics tbirds cougars in the mid late 80's were roller blocks too they just wernt ho motors meaning small cams poor performing heads etc.

 

[retro50]

All of the 5.0L blocks were roller blocks from 1986-2000. But not all had roller cams. But the machine work was done to all of the blocks incase they got the roller cams. The valley is all set up for roller lifters. Just find the spider assembly and the link bars and you will be all right.

 

[D.Hearne]

Easiest cars to find roller 5.0's in are 87-90 Crown Vics, Lincoln Town cars, and the Marquis. All had the roller cam , so all the hardware is already there.

 

[57fairlane]

My $0.02... buy a pre-assembled short block. By the time you find a block, have it machined, and purchase the internals, you will easily equal the price of a pre-assembled one. Unless of course, you already have the internals.

I don't know if I would go for that. I guess it depends on what internals you want and if you can put the motor together yourself. I spent $625 total on a 306. $100 on a junk 5.0 out of a mustang. Kept the stock rods and crank, all of the machine work (bore to .030, crank, shot peened rods), speed pro hypereutectics with rings, new bearings, arp bolts. Put the short block together in my garage.

 

[minda03GT]

Roller Block

If you want to take a small road trip, I have a M6009 B50 roller short block from Ford Racing - still unopened in the original box.

I decided not to use it and would like to pass it on to someone who needs it (I need the space).

Most mustang/performance list this block for 1200. I will sell it for 1000.00

Steven

[email protected]

 

[66P51GT]

I don't know if I would go for that. I guess it depends on what internals you want and if you can put the motor together yourself. I spent $625 total on a 306. $100 on a junk 5.0 out of a mustang. Kept the stock rods and crank, all of the machine work (bore to .030, crank, shot peened rods), speed pro hypereutectics with rings, new bearings, arp bolts. Put the short block together in my garage.

He's building a stroker. He will need Crank/Rods/Pistons and will have to notch the cylinder sleeves for the rods.

Machining cost is about $450 to prep a block (clean, bore & hone, line bore, surface deck, install cam bearings, notch) and another $150 or so to balance the entire rotating assembly. Add $100 for the block, $1,000 - $1,500 for a rotating assembly, $100 Timing Chain, $250 Cam, plus all the extras (gaskets, ARP fasteners, etc.) the $2,000 short block starts to look pretty good.

The short block path was my original plan until I found a killer deal on an unassembled long block for $2,300 which included a brand new 5.0 roller block, Carrillo rods, Speed Pro pistons, and ported Edelbrock heads. Even with all new components, I still ended up spending ~$500 on machining (zero deck, milled heads, balanced rotating assembly).

 

[D.Hearne]

My 331 stroker short block only cost me $1500 The block I got from a local machine shop that got stuck with it. Cost me $50. Already cleaned with new cam bearings. The stroker kit and machinework was $1225. Cam was another $115 ( new Z303 bought from another SN member in the classifieds) Main girdle was another $175 from Mustangs Unlimited.

 

[57fairlane]

Machining cost is about $450 to prep a block (clean, bore & hone, line bore, surface deck, install cam bearings, notch) and another $150 or so to balance the entire rotating assembly. Add $100 for the block, $1,000 - $1,500 for a rotating assembly, $100 Timing Chain, $250 Cam, plus all the extras (gaskets, ARP fasteners, etc.) the $2,000 short block starts to look pretty good.

For some reason I forgot he was going with a 347. However, you can notch the block yourself using a die grinder. I have done this twice now, a 347 and a 408 and have had no problems. Maybe I just get a discounted price but that machine work shouldn't cost THAT much. Also, if all he needs is a block he can pick up an E7TE for less than $75. Again, do we have an idea of what kind of rotating assembly this guy wants? Seems like you think a forged crank with h-beams and forged pistons are on order. Also, why not spend $50 more and get a custom? I wouldn't pay more than $150 for a camshaft especially with nice pieces like a trick flow stage 2 for a 347. So I guess what I am trying to say is somewhere between my idea of a 347 and p51gt's is what it is going to cost.

 

[Sicarius428]

How much power do you plan on pushing. The stock H.O. block handles up to 450hp on average. You might want to consider a sportsman block if you are going for some serioius power. Just a consideration.
Kevin