5 lug all weel disc

[90notch_5.0]

5 lug all wheel disc (PICS)

Hey we just finish doing the 5 lug all wheel disc brakes on my bros car it was a lot of fun. I did most of the take off put on stuff it turn out to be a very easy job with the right tools. We got everything from a 97 V6 (MS, diff, brackets, calipers, some brake lines, etc) Any comments or questions are welcome

 

[diponyou]

tits

 

[93green_gt]

Thanks to my brother (90notch_50) and david. Couldn't have done it without you all. hahah. Davids rebuild is next!

 

[fivespeedsteed]

tits indeed. you do anything with the master cyl. and booster? casue your gonna need that. your pedals gonna fell like, well no idea really cause it will be all wacky. isnt the drum mc a fast fill type?

 

[90notch_5.0]

My bro will answer to all questions 93greengt he is the brake master

 

[93green_gt]

I used the 97 V6 master Cyl and my stock Booster cause the V6 booster did not fit. Will install the adjustable PV this week, cause I am using the stock PV feels ok. Also need to install the e brake cables. Will try to use the V6 cables. Doing trial and error! hahaha.

tits indeed. you do anything with the master cyl. and booster? casue your gonna need that. your pedals gonna fell like, well no idea really cause it will be all wacky. isnt the drum mc a fast fill type?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Nice job. Interesting mounting of the rear soft line brackets. Not quite how they are supposed to go but looks like it worked out for you.

The Sn95 e-brake cables won't work for you. Actually...if your car is a 1993 they may work, but unsure. 1993 is a 1-year only setup and not sure the SN95 stuff will work with it.

You may want to look into a booster down the road. You migth be fine, but if you ever go with the 99+ calipers or Cobra fronts...you'll def need a 1993 cobra booster.

FYI, V6 booster will fit. I have one in mine. You just need to slot the holes and massage the fender slightly. If it's a 1991+, it's an easy drop in. Prob is the 96+ boosters have a straight brake lever arm, so 1994-1995 are the only SN95 boosters you should use. 1993 Cobra is the same 205mm tandem booster as the 94-95 Mustangs.....but has the correct stud mounting pattern as the Fox.

 

[93green_gt]

Thanks for the feed back. Do you have any pics or links as to a better mounting for the soft line braket?

Will try to install the 97V6 booster once again, you mentioned that slotting the holes was needed and massaging the fender as well. That makes sense becasue the fender did not let booster slide in straight plus the mounting studs do not match those on my 93 mustang firewall.

So other option is get 94-95 booster or 93 cobra.



I did so much home work on this that all I wanted to do is do the swap and depending how it felt I would go from there.

Nice job. Interesting mounting of the rear soft line brackets. Not quite how they are supposed to go but looks like it worked out for you.

The Sn95 e-brake cables won't work for you. Actually...if your car is a 1993 they may work, but unsure. 1993 is a 1-year only setup and not sure the SN95 stuff will work with it.

You may want to look into a booster down the road. You migth be fine, but if you ever go with the 99+ calipers or Cobra fronts...you'll def need a 1993 cobra booster.

FYI, V6 booster will fit. I have one in mine. You just need to slot the holes and massage the fender slightly. If it's a 1991+, it's an easy drop in. Prob is the 96+ boosters have a straight brake lever arm, so 1994-1995 are the only SN95 boosters you should use. 1993 Cobra is the same 205mm tandem booster as the 94-95 Mustangs.....but has the correct stud mounting pattern as the Fox.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have pics, but i'll have to wait til i get home to post them up.

The thing to check on the 1997 booster is the brake arm. It MUST be curved like the fox booster otherwise you might have binding issues. At some point after 1995, the arm was changed, so you need to check this. If unsure, post a pic and i can tell you if it is the correct booster.

The 1993 Cobra and SN95 boosters for the most part are all the same...all 205mm tandem booster. Difference is the bolt pattern. The 1993 cobra bolt pattern matched the stock fox pattern and has the same thread pitch so you can reuse the nuts from your fox booster. The sn95 boosters use metric nuts and have the lower left stud (looking at rear of car) ina different spot. All you need to do is drill a new hole and slot the other 3 holes and it should drop in. You may not even need to massage as 91-93's have larger aprons and more room to work with.

 

[93green_gt]

I am allmost positive that it is straigth NOT curved will check when I get home. Then will look in to getting a diffrent booster. 94-95 or 93 cobra.

Will work on the ebarke cables today as well as the adjust prop valve. I am using the car without a e brake and stock PV.

would like a set up like this

Fox Brake Upgrade [SN95 Style] - DriftLive Community

Thanks for the info.

I have pics, but i'll have to wait til i get home to post them up.

The thing to check on the 1997 booster is the brake arm. It MUST be curved like the fox booster otherwise you might have binding issues. At some point after 1995, the arm was changed, so you need to check this. If unsure, post a pic and i can tell you if it is the correct booster.

The 1993 Cobra and SN95 boosters for the most part are all the same...all 205mm tandem booster. Difference is the bolt pattern. The 1993 cobra bolt pattern matched the stock fox pattern and has the same thread pitch so you can reuse the nuts from your fox booster. The sn95 boosters use metric nuts and have the lower left stud (looking at rear of car) ina different spot. All you need to do is drill a new hole and slot the other 3 holes and it should drop in. You may not even need to massage as 91-93's have larger aprons and more room to work with.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Here are pics of how the rear brake lines mount. This is a Max Motorsports SS kit, but it's the same setup basically. Looking at your pics, it looks like you used the 96 v6 lines...they actually mount to the body and then the lines connect to the calipers. 94-95 Mustang lines are the type I have which bolt to the axle. I beleive the holes on the passenger side are already there, and you need to drill one hole on the drivers side.

Pay no attention to my odd brake hardlines. I fixed it later.

Also, make sure they clear the body bumpers. You don't want to hit a bump and have the bumper shear off a brake line

 

[93green_gt]

awesome

I could eat off of that diff looks super! those lines give you more of a option as to where to mount the soft line bracket.

I completely eliminated the stock PV and used a adjustable pv for the rear similar to the link below.


Fox Brake Upgrade [SN95 Style] - DriftLive Community

for some reason I am not getting enough brake fluid pressure to the rear calipers even if the adjust PV is all open.

I took off the rear diff line from the hard line of the frame or body to the soft line that goes to the rear diff to put the correct ends that bolt on to the rear caliper soft lines and had to double flare the ends.

I know it has a bolt with a small hole in the middle that is perpendicular to the bolt. I don't think that hole should align with the soft line, or does it? Maybe when I bolted it back on that hole did not exactly align with the soft line?

That would be the only thing that comes to mind that could be preventing more pressure to the rear calipers.


Fronts feel good!

 

[youngkow]

If you upgraded to 96 brakes, can't you just use the PV from that year mustang? Is there an advantage to going to a manual PV?

 

[93green_gt]

I was told that because It is a ABS car it would not work on my non ABS car not only that but because it has different weight distribution, but never tried it.

If you upgraded to 96 brakes, can't you just use the PV from that year mustang? Is there an advantage to going to a manual PV?

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you upgraded to 96 brakes, can't you just use the PV from that year mustang? Is there an advantage to going to a manual PV?

No you can't.

Part of it is because ABS cars have "lighter" proportioning since they can use the ABS to unlock the rear wheels, but also you should never use a PV from another car as the weight dist. is not the same.

Also, having a manual PV is nice even on a stock setup because we run sticky, wider tires at times and being able to dial in a little more brake bias is nice.



93green, i can answer your other question later tonight

 

[Mustang5L5]

I could eat off of that diff looks super! those lines give you more of a option as to where to mount the soft line bracket.

I completely eliminated the stock PV and used a adjustable pv for the rear similar to the link below.


Fox Brake Upgrade [SN95 Style] - DriftLive Community

for some reason I am not getting enough brake fluid pressure to the rear calipers even if the adjust PV is all open.

I took off the rear diff line from the hard line of the frame or body to the soft line that goes to the rear diff to put the correct ends that bolt on to the rear caliper soft lines and had to double flare the ends.

I know it has a bolt with a small hole in the middle that is perpendicular to the bolt. I don't think that hole should align with the soft line, or does it? Maybe when I bolted it back on that hole did not exactly align with the soft line?

That would be the only thing that comes to mind that could be preventing more pressure to the rear calipers.


Fronts feel good!

You could use that MM PV elim kit because it still keeps the front and rear brake line separate. By design, you don't want to connect the front and rears after the MC because if one line goes, you'll lose your brakes completely. By separating them, if the rears go, the MC can still supply fluid to the fronts.

I did my PV mods a different way, but there are a few ways to skin a cat.


So is this what you have now? The PV eliminated? Or do you still have the stock PV setup?

How are you determining that the rear brakes don't have enough pressure?

 

[93green_gt]

Yes this is what I have now.

The PV is eliminated.

The reason I think I am getting to little pressur eis becasue when I bleed the rear calipers the pressure bearly squirts out compared to the fronts.

The fronts grip good but the rear I think do no not.

Thanks

You could use that MM PV elim kit because it still keeps the front and rear brake line separate. By design, you don't want to connect the front and rears after the MC because if one line goes, you'll lose your brakes completely. By separating them, if the rears go, the MC can still supply fluid to the fronts.

I did my PV mods a different way, but there are a few ways to skin a cat.


So is this what you have now? The PV eliminated? Or do you still have the stock PV setup?

How are you determining that the rear brakes don't have enough pressure?

 

[93green_gt]

ALL DONE! MAnaged to get the 95 booster in and installed PBR calipers. STOPS awsome.

Stock 97 E-brakes cables bolted right on!

Eliminated the stock PV and installed a adjustable proportioning valve for the rear

Thanks to all for the info!!