5 lug upgrade, no brakes, HELP!!

RustyFord · May 10, 2007

Hey guys, converted to SN95 Spindles and brakes upfront, Everything is tight, no leaks, bench bled the master, no air in lines, cant get pressure to build for the system. Has anyone else encountered this issue with this conversion? My stock MC was leaking so I replaced it with a brand new one, not reman. Then I replaced it again. Pretty certain its not the MC. I followed the conversion directions from this site but there was no mention of upgrading the MC and booster. Any ideas from the pros out there?

jrichker · May 10, 2007

When you step on the pedal, does it quickly go to the floor? A pedal that slowly goes to the floor is a sign of a master cylinder with an internal leak. A pedal that goes quickly to the floor is usually a big leak or air in the lines.

Does the pedal pump up at all? If it does thare still is air in the lines.

RustyFord · May 10, 2007

After talking to a local Ford Mechanic he thinks because I left a line open over nite, that the metering block was affected. There is a click under the car when you hit the brakes. Sounds like from the back seat area under the car. He said to hold down the button on the front of the block while bleeding to reset. Apparently a bypass type valve when you have brake failure. This is a new one for me but I am a hobbyist and not a real mechanic. I'll give it a try and report back in case anyone else goes throught this grief.
Rusty

Shakerhood · May 10, 2007

I am not aware of any reset buttons for your brake system.

RustyFord · May 11, 2007

Its a new one on me as well. If you look at the propportioning vavlve, there is a rubber plug on the front, with that removed, you are to depress the inner valve while bleeding the brakes and this is supposed to reset the valve if it has moved due to brake system failure. I didnt know about it either and apparently you need a special tool for it. So now I am hunting a new proportioning valve. Anybody out there have a parts car with one on it? If all else fails I will convert to an aftermarket adjustable but I am sure this will become an all new nightmare. Any suggestions out there?
R

RBRANDX · May 11, 2007

Did you just do the front brakes, or did you convert to rear discs as well... Either way I would reccomend that you gut the stock prop. valve with the Ford Racing "plug" kit and install an adj. prop valve...Then just make sure you have all your connections tight, and also check to make sure that your booster rod is propertly depressing the master cyl piston....see if that helps.

93 LX · May 11, 2007

I am ready to make this conversion too although I have 96 Spindles and PBR calipers. What brake lines did you use? I cant seem to find any information on this.

Allen

RBRANDX · May 11, 2007

I used goodridge(sic?) ss lines from a 03 cobra..

Shakerhood · May 11, 2007

RustyFord said:
Its a new one on me as well. If you look at the propportioning vavlve, there is a rubber plug on the front, with that removed, you are to depress the inner valve while bleeding the brakes and this is supposed to reset the valve if it has moved due to brake system failure. I didnt know about it either and apparently you need a special tool for it. So now I am hunting a new proportioning valve. Anybody out there have a parts car with one on it? If all else fails I will convert to an aftermarket adjustable but I am sure this will become an all new nightmare. Any suggestions out there?
R

It seems to me if you remove the plug and try to bleed the brakes that you are just going to be letting air right back into the System. I agree with what was Posted above, remove the front screw from the Prop Valve and put the Ford Racing Brass Plug in its place and add an Adjustable Prop Valve.

1991vert · May 12, 2007

i am with everyone else on the adj. prop. valve and the FMS plug kit.

Mustang5L5 · May 12, 2007

RustyFord said:
Its a new one on me as well. If you look at the propportioning vavlve, there is a rubber plug on the front, with that removed, you are to depress the inner valve while bleeding the brakes and this is supposed to reset the valve if it has moved due to brake system failure. I didnt know about it either and apparently you need a special tool for it.

What???

The front of the combination valve is the proportioning valve hardware. What the mechanic is talking about is the shuttle valve and that is located at the rear of the combination valve. There is no valve to "reset", it only functions if a line becomes open. Once you close the line, it will reset itself.

You should have gutted the front prop valve and used an adjustble prop valve from the beginning anyway. It lets you fine tune the brake bias. Don't remove the combo valve, you still need it for the shuttle valve safety feature.

RustyFord · May 12, 2007

My bad guys, a reset button was a little simplistic. I replaced the combo valve and all is right with the world. To the guy who questioned about the brake line, I went with stainless teflon coated. They are available at one NAPA store here near Orlando. Coolest thing Ive seen guys. You buy the lines the length you want and then the ends are bolt on components to your needs. Banjo fittings are reversable and fit either way so your angles ( many choices) are to your specs. Made in Germany and recently imported here. Very very cool and so easy.

93 LX · May 12, 2007

Cool I am glad you resolved the issue. I will have to see if the NAPA here in So Cal does this as well.

Allen

5 lug upgrade, no brakes, HELP!!

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