I have a worn gear and am trying to find out which it is--- Tranny tag reads f0zr-7003-aa rep-av 13-52-199 89369g2413 -- the gear in question was next to the last gear on the tailshaft set of gears -- it has 32 teeth that are NOT angled but have a "v" shape on one edge that has worn down where it would mesh with another gear, a splined center area with 3 small flat spots equally spaced around the center of the splines, NO numbers stamped on it and it has a machined groove around the edge of it where I think a fork would go. HELP!!! Also - can anyone tell me what tranny this is - I spun it in first gear before tear down and I counted approximately 3.35:1 or very close to that - This is a BorgWarner t-5 unit out of a Mustang - I slid on a pilot bearing for a V-8 and it seemed to fit - not too tight and not too loose - just slid right on with no problem.
5spd gear question after torn down
- Thread starter bsedwebt70-5.0
- Start date
199 refers to 1990-1991 V8 T-5 rated at 300 ft-lbs of torque.
3.35 First
1.99 Second
1.33 Third
1.00 Forth
0.68 Fifth
3.15 Reverse
The gear you are talking about is the 1-2 synchro slider. The straight cut teeth are part of reverse. When you shift the trans into R, a small idler gear on the driver's side of the trans slides back and meshes between the 1-2 synchro and the countergear down below. The teeth on the slider are supposed to be beveled, but sometimes after years of abuse the teeth begin to round over on the synchro slider and the idler gear down below.
3.35 First
1.99 Second
1.33 Third
1.00 Forth
0.68 Fifth
3.15 Reverse
The gear you are talking about is the 1-2 synchro slider. The straight cut teeth are part of reverse. When you shift the trans into R, a small idler gear on the driver's side of the trans slides back and meshes between the 1-2 synchro and the countergear down below. The teeth on the slider are supposed to be beveled, but sometimes after years of abuse the teeth begin to round over on the synchro slider and the idler gear down below.
Thanks a whole bunch!!! I was going through my service manual book and it looks like this is what it is!!!! I am having a local shop do the work and he thought it was 2nd gear - it is obviously NOT 2nd gear!!! The shop was saying he thinks the fix the part by grinding the rounded over "v" edges on each of the 32 teeth back into a "v" shape again -- would this be ok? Could it be left as is with slight rounding to the upper part of the "V" and not have any problems? The current problem with the trans and the reason it was pulled was it grinded when shifted quickly from first to second gear - I do NOT want that to happen - I have no problem slow shifting into reverse but I want to know if this caused the problem
No those teeth have nothing to do with 2nd gear. They are reverse only.
Take a look at the picture on the right that i posted above. In the center is the 1-2 synchro slider and to the left of it is 2nd gear. If you notice on 2nd gear, right on the right edge you'll see some "fingers" pointed directly at the 1-2 synchro. These are the teeth that engage the synchro. When these teeth become damaged, or the blocker right (the black ring sandwiched between the two) becomes worn, you get a grind.
Depending on how badly it grinds, you may be able tyo get away with replacing the blocker ring (a $20 part) or if the teeth become damaged you'll have to replace both the 2nd gear and the 1-2 synchro slider.
I have some pics somewhere that shows a damaged grinding 2nd gear and 1-2 slider, let me see if i can dig it up.
Take a look at the picture on the right that i posted above. In the center is the 1-2 synchro slider and to the left of it is 2nd gear. If you notice on 2nd gear, right on the right edge you'll see some "fingers" pointed directly at the 1-2 synchro. These are the teeth that engage the synchro. When these teeth become damaged, or the blocker right (the black ring sandwiched between the two) becomes worn, you get a grind.
Depending on how badly it grinds, you may be able tyo get away with replacing the blocker ring (a $20 part) or if the teeth become damaged you'll have to replace both the 2nd gear and the 1-2 synchro slider.
I have some pics somewhere that shows a damaged grinding 2nd gear and 1-2 slider, let me see if i can dig it up.
Here's 2nd and the 1-2 slider (the part you were asking about).
You can see the "fingers" on 2nd gear mashed over on the right side. SInce this peice meshes with the 1-2 synchro slider, you can see the ribs on the inside of the slider are also damaged.
This trans used to grind 2nd all the time. I had to replace 2nd gear ($40 used from classifieds) the blocker ring ($20 new) and the 1-2 synchro slider ($38 new off Ebay) to fix this trans.
You can see the "fingers" on 2nd gear mashed over on the right side. SInce this peice meshes with the 1-2 synchro slider, you can see the ribs on the inside of the slider are also damaged.
This trans used to grind 2nd all the time. I had to replace 2nd gear ($40 used from classifieds) the blocker ring ($20 new) and the 1-2 synchro slider ($38 new off Ebay) to fix this trans.
Attachments
Thanks again!! I have purchased the 94 piece ford motorsport t5 rebuild kit 7005a I think it was called and an extra input shaft bearing and race part a-5 at my local auto parts store because the listing for the rebuild kit said I had to buy another one of these for the later model transmission. I also got a new 7 tooth speedo drive gear (yellow). SOOOOO.... If I understand you correctly - they shop can simply grind the "v" shape back into that 1-2 slider (I verified this to be the part just now on e-bay) and the same to the idler that contacts it and I will be ok -- OR I could just put it back in without doing anything and take it easy going into reverse. I will try to actuall buy the part at Carlisle, PA. tommorrow (spring show) if I can find it. The shop wants to get it back together soon so I may just go with the old one and forget it. Shop says ALL the other gears looked good and no need to waste money (honest shop!) so I assume the idler piece is fine - is that sometimes the case - only the 1-2 slider gets worn down on the "v"?
Well how badly do you want to fix reverse?
I would not suggest grinding any gear inside the trans. It may throw the balance off and cause a slight vibration at high speed.
The parts are cheap.
Here's the idler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T5-R...33733QQitemZ8026741680QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Here's the slider
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T5-T...33733QQitemZ8058620947QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
You may be able to get away with only replacing the slider. It depends on how worn the idler gear is. Usually if the slider is worn well, the idler is too, but not always the case. Either way, both of this parts will fix reverse.
Back to 2nd gear grind. If by chance the engagement teeth on 2nd gear are damaged, you need to replace the gear. You may be lucky and the damage is minimal and replacing the slider and blocker ring (included in rebuild kit) will fix the grind, but if 2nd is damaged you need to replace.
In this pic 2nd is on the left. The straight "fingers" are the engagement teeth. This is how a new gear's teeth will look. If they are not sharp and pointed like that you need to replace the gear. Rounded over or damaged teeth will just end up grinding again. If the shops says they are fine, then just replace the two parts needed for reverse
I would not suggest grinding any gear inside the trans. It may throw the balance off and cause a slight vibration at high speed.
The parts are cheap.
Here's the idler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T5-R...33733QQitemZ8026741680QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Here's the slider
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T5-T...33733QQitemZ8058620947QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
You may be able to get away with only replacing the slider. It depends on how worn the idler gear is. Usually if the slider is worn well, the idler is too, but not always the case. Either way, both of this parts will fix reverse.
Back to 2nd gear grind. If by chance the engagement teeth on 2nd gear are damaged, you need to replace the gear. You may be lucky and the damage is minimal and replacing the slider and blocker ring (included in rebuild kit) will fix the grind, but if 2nd is damaged you need to replace.
In this pic 2nd is on the left. The straight "fingers" are the engagement teeth. This is how a new gear's teeth will look. If they are not sharp and pointed like that you need to replace the gear. Rounded over or damaged teeth will just end up grinding again. If the shops says they are fine, then just replace the two parts needed for reverse
ok - I will get the slider and the idler for sure - I do not have second gear handy (left the rest of the trans at the shop and they are closed til monday) I see what you mean about the 2nd gear fingers that mesh into the slider -- they mesh into the side of the slider that has the groove - right? I am looking at my slider right now - it shows some wear on the very tips of the inside spline - slight rounding on the very tips on both sides (groove side and tooth side) - does this mean I need a new 2nd gear too or does the blocker plate cause this wear? what rides on the other side of the slider to cause the slight rounding on the "splines" "v" area opposite of 2nd gear? should that be looked into?
The rounding on the straight cut teeth is caused by engaging the reverse idler while the trans is still spinning. There is no synchronized reverse on the t-5 until 1993, so most t-5's grind into reverse. EVery time you do this, you slowly round the teeth. That's why it's suggested to shift into a forward gear first before dropping to reverse.
Part numbers here
1352-080-152 T5 WC 2ND GEAR 31T 99-01 V6 90-95 FORD V8
The slider and reverse idlers are basically all the same for every t-5. 2nd gear in the 1990-Up t-5 is 31 tooth. You should see 1352-080-152 cast into the side opposite the side with the fingers. This may not always be the case as the one i have now as a paperweight on my desk has 1352-080-9F1 cast into it.
Part numbers here
1352-080-152 T5 WC 2ND GEAR 31T 99-01 V6 90-95 FORD V8
The slider and reverse idlers are basically all the same for every t-5. 2nd gear in the 1990-Up t-5 is 31 tooth. You should see 1352-080-152 cast into the side opposite the side with the fingers. This may not always be the case as the one i have now as a paperweight on my desk has 1352-080-9F1 cast into it.
It's possible. WOuld have to check to see. The 5th gear brass synchro wears very easily, but it's also possible for the engagement teeth on 5th to wear.
The good thing is 5th gear is very easy to inspect and replace. You only need to pull the tailhousing. No need to open and pull apart the rest of the trans.
The good thing is 5th gear is very easy to inspect and replace. You only need to pull the tailhousing. No need to open and pull apart the rest of the trans.
yes, 5th gear is new so I can't see that already being worn, it's only grinded a few times but it still bothers me. I could potentially do damage to the gear if I let it continue. The only thing I can see being worn is the sider, I know most trans places won't replace this part as it's not part of a normal trans rebuild kit
What's odd is that it will even grind sometimes (shifting quickly) when I'm backing out of the driveway or in a parking lot. I usually go into 5th before I shift into reverse.
That seems odd to me because it seems like 5th gear itself is turning then if it is grinding. Why would 5th gear be turing fast enough to grind in a parking lot when the clutch is depressed?
I've tried adjusting the clutch thinking it was not disengaging fully but that's definitely not the problem.
Can you direct me to where I can find a 5th gear slider? I will check ebay. I will have the trans out in a few weeks when I do the motor swap, I might as well take a look then.
What's odd is that it will even grind sometimes (shifting quickly) when I'm backing out of the driveway or in a parking lot. I usually go into 5th before I shift into reverse.
That seems odd to me because it seems like 5th gear itself is turning then if it is grinding. Why would 5th gear be turing fast enough to grind in a parking lot when the clutch is depressed?
I've tried adjusting the clutch thinking it was not disengaging fully but that's definitely not the problem.
Can you direct me to where I can find a 5th gear slider? I will check ebay. I will have the trans out in a few weeks when I do the motor swap, I might as well take a look then.
Hanlon has them
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/category.php
Entire new 5th gear synchro assembly will run you $55 and the brass blocker ring is an additional $8
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/category.php
Entire new 5th gear synchro assembly will run you $55 and the brass blocker ring is an additional $8
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
umm...did you say you took it to a shop and the mechanic couldnt figure out what gear it was? if so, i would go get my stuff and find another shop
http://cartapes.com also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs less than $20, and is worth every penny of it.
I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it.
Tell your mechanic you will buy the tape if he will spring for the pizza & drinks.
I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it.
Tell your mechanic you will buy the tape if he will spring for the pizza & drinks.
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