60 Footing Better...

Wknd_Warrior · May 20, 2005

What should I do to 60' better.

I just got new slicks today... I still have my front sway bar connected, do you guys think undoing that will help or hurt my car?

It 60's mid 1.4s consistently.

How do you think I should set my shocks and struts... I have the fronts all the way loose and the rear shocks are tight.

Its a Steeda Drag bar in the front... I run my slicks at 11 lbs.

Just looks like my car is too stiff in my videos. Not a lot of weight transfer...

11.08 @ 122

Any ideas?

BelueLX · May 20, 2005

Wow that is a great 60' already. What kind of drivetrain are you running. Those are some nice NA number congrads.

Wknd_Warrior · May 20, 2005

AXIStang said:
Wow that is a great 60' already. What kind of drivetrain are you running. Those are some nice NA number congrads.

Here's the whole setup:

Engine/Fuel/Cooling – D.S.S. Pro Bullet 306 with H-beam rods, Brodix Track 1 Heads CNCed by M2 Race Systems, Anderson Ford N-71 Camshaft, Jesel Sportsman Series Shaft Rocker System, Holley Systemax intake, Phenolic Spacer, ATI Balancer, Accufab 75mm Race Style TB and EGR spacer. Holley 255 In-tank fuel pump, #8 AN Fuel line from custom In-tank pump to split factory rails, 30# Injectors, Crane Adjustable FPR. FMS Radiator, Edelbrock Water Pump, Flex-A-Lite Electric Fan. Downs Ford Mass-Air Conversion Harness, Pro-M 80 MAF, Anderson NA Power Pipe, Dyna-Batt 13 lb. Battery. Mac Long tubes, Mac Off-Road H-Pipe, FlowMaster 2-Chamber Cat-back, Mini-Starter.

Trans & Rear – G-Force T-5, Pro-5.0 Shifter, Hurst T-handle w/button. SPEC Aluminum Flywheel, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Shark Adjustable Clutch Cable and Firewall Adjuster, McLeod Scattershield, FMS Aluminum Drive-shaft, Lakewood Safety Loop, 4.10s, Moser 31-spline axles, Moser C-clip eliminators, Spool, Downs Ford Girdle.

Suspension – Competition Engineering Sub-frame connectors, Steeda Front Drag-Bar, D&D Motorsports Tubular K-member, UPR Chromoly A-Arms and Coil-Over conversion including Hal springs, Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates and Strut Tower brace. Koni Adjustable Struts, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack & Steering Shaft. D&D Motorsports Adj. Upper Control Arms, Metco Lower Control Arms, Eibach Drag Launch Springs, Hal 12-way Adj. Shocks, Wolfe RaceCraft Anti-roll bar. Wild Rides Battle Boxes Upper and Lower. Torque boxes welded.

Electronics/Gauges – Anderson Ford PMS, MSD 6AL, MSD Distributor, MSD Balster 2 Coil, MSD Plug Wires, MSD 2-Step, MSD RPM Selector, MSD Shift Light. Autometer Phantom Gauges - Playback Tach, Boost, A/F Ratio, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Line Lock.

Drag Gear – Wild Rides 8 point bar, Comp Eng Swing-Outs, Weld Draglites, Hoosier Skinny fronts, M/T 26 *10 ET Drags, Simpson Helmet, Fire Jacket, and 5-Point harness.

tjm73 · May 20, 2005

I know some people that would kill for your 60' times!!

89MustangGX · May 20, 2005

I don't have the experience running those times to tell you for sure, but I would think that removing it entirely will make a noticible difference, as it does in slower applications. I know the Steeda bar is already lighter, but the weight will help as well of course.

It's not much work to remove it or even just disconnect the endlinks. It's worth a try.

BelueLX · May 20, 2005

Do you have any dyno numbers? That looks like a NICE setup. As far as traction I can't help you my best 60' was 1.69 all stock suspension, sway bar removed, 26x8.5 slicks, POS torque converter that gave me like 2,000rpm off the line. Ive never had a problem with traction on slicks just lack of HP.

88_GT_5_oh · May 20, 2005

ok now i have heard this a couple differnt times.. removing the front sway bar helps alot? how does the car corner with it off?

if removing mine will help alot i will do it, i jsut dn't want my car to corner like ****

sorry to hyjack man

BelueLX · May 21, 2005

88_GT_5_oh said:
ok now i have heard this a couple differnt times.. removing the front sway bar helps alot? how does the car corner with it off?

if removing mine will help alot i will do it, i jsut dn't want my car to corner like ****

sorry to hyjack man

helps weight transfer. someone should make some quick disconnects like i have in my Jeep. allows you to remove a pin and connect / disconnect the swaybar and takes about 10-15 seconds. im sure there is a good reason someone doesn't make them already ???

NosPony · May 22, 2005

I have no front or rear swaybar on my 89 notch and no problems at all. It corners just like it did with them on and i have 70/30s and 50/50s on it. Also, drag spring kit too. No cornering issues yet.

mfewtrail · May 22, 2005

88_GT_5_oh said:
ok now i have heard this a couple differnt times.. removing the front sway bar helps alot? how does the car corner with it off?

if removing mine will help alot i will do it, i jsut dn't want my car to corner like ****

sorry to hyjack man

I've driven/ridden in a few modded Foxes with the front sway bar removed(and 4cyl springs swapped on up front). The car still corners fine under normal driving(like you should be doing on the "street" anyways ), and isn't that bad if you're doing a little spirited driving.

BelueLX · Aug 4, 2005

I removed my sway and under heavy cornering the body lean was crazy. Put it back in and just removed for track duty. Never changed to non-stock springs (probably why i had so much lean) but my 60' was only 1.74 nothing crazy like you guys.

QDRHRSE · Aug 4, 2005

Removing the front sway bar will help in two ways. Weight reduction and it will also allow the front suspension to articulate more freely. Soften up the rear. The rear needs to give a little. If the rear is to stiff it will not allow the weight of the car to transfer completely. It's gonna be hard to beat a 1.43. My friends car has similar 60ft's and he's well into the 9's. I almost think that your rubbing it in a little....that car leaves like a raped ape!

Rick 91GT · Aug 5, 2005

I would have the car scaled, and make sure you get weight in the proper places. You are already 60ft pretty damn good, but scaling the car will make a difference.

OL' WHITEY · Aug 5, 2005

AXIStanng, I've often wondered the same thing...why have the Mustang folks not wised up like the off roaders and created a sway bar quick disconnect? Makes perfect sense to me! One pull pin on either side and it's disconnected. Replace the pin and your'e back cornering like a champ. This setup could be fabricated rather easily. The sway bar links are not much different than a Jeep's. Whoever comes up with this forst will make a crap load of money. Perfect for the person who drives their car every day and takes it to the track on the weekends.

EMW150 · Aug 5, 2005

I can't believe you're 60'ing in the 1.4s with the sway bar connected. Thing must hook like a champ. Good job. I'd take it off to see what it does. The weight off the nose is a big benefit plus allows better weight transfer.

60 Footing Better...

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