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66 coilover design pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter 66g-machine
  • Start date Start date May 9, 2005
6

66g-machine

New Member
May 8, 2005
5
0
0
May 9, 2005
#1
  • May 9, 2005
  • #1
Well, today I finished the design for my 66 mustang fastback. I posted lots of pictures on my site, so take a look and tell me what you think. A custom spindle is in the works, but the geometry is not much better with a new one, so Im leaving it out for now. Im interested I what you all think about it from a strength standpoint, and suggestions are coveted. Also, feel free to contact me throught the contacts page as I finally got it working. Sorry to those that I didn't get back to as a was unable to see what was written, or their email address'. Have a great day.

Louie Dietz
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
May 9, 2005
#2
  • May 9, 2005
  • #2
What the heck are you making those control arms out of? Billet something or other? Not trying to be too critical, but they look big and bulky. What's wrong with welded tubing?

I'll be the first to admit I don't know a lot about road race suspensions, but your crossmember would be better designed if it were 3 pieces instead of 5 wouldn't it? Make the ends slope down to the bottom? Heck, I'll bet Morrison could bend it up out of 1 piece for you as they have that cool daddy multi axis rectangular tubing mandrel bender.
 
6

66g-machine

New Member
May 8, 2005
5
0
0
May 9, 2005
#3
  • May 9, 2005
  • #3
The arms are billet aluminum. the top weighs about 6 pounds and the bottom weight about 10. I wish I could use less pieces to make the crossmember, but to get the location right the bends are impossible.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
May 9, 2005
#4
  • May 9, 2005
  • #4
Wow, the upper ball joint mounting area looks very thin for billet aluminum. Aluminum doesn't have the elasticity that steel has though, does it?

I'm guessing your using spherical rod ends for the control arms? Kinda hard to adjust the alignment isnt it? What about using the adjusters off the bottom of an adjustable ladder bar. They use left and right hand threads so you wouldn't have to remove the control arms, plus, the way you have it, your adjustment is every half turn of the rod end, with the adjusters, its infinite.

As far as the crossmember, the LCA tube wouldn't necessarily have to go in the center of the 2x4 (I'm assuming the size) tube. I'm thinking if it sweeping more like the stock crossmember. That tube could be closer to the outer edge. Are you using the crossmember for engine mounts too? In the diagram it doesn't show any and you'd have to remove the nubs that are there now to put your crossmember in.
 
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