Thanks Zigmont. Like I said I wasnt really into manual tranmissions but thats what I thought. For a second there I thought there was a ton of bypassing going on. I can remember having to drive a few stick shift cars that jumped in gear
I have a similar setup aftermarket starter with a built in solenoid on my 65. All I did was take the cable off the starter side of the solenoid and move it to the battery side. I then attached a new 14 AWG wire from the starter side of the original solenoid down to the small terminal of the new starter solenoid. When you energize the original solenoid it will send 12 volts down to the new starter solenoid and crank the car. This way you can keep that "original look" of having the original solenoid in place if that is what you want. Also, you dont have to figure what to do with all of the other wires on the original solenoid. Just leave them where they are.
So far as neutral safety switches are concerned, to my knowledge, US made manual transmission cars have never had a "neutral safety switch" later model manual transmission cars do have a "safety switch" wired through the clutch pedal so it has to be depressed for the starter to energize
After thinking about it some more, the easiest way to hook it all up is to leave all of the wires on the original solenoid in place, with the original starter cable attached to the "bat" terminal of the new starter. Then install a small jumper wire from the "bat" terminal of the new starter to the "switch" terminal of the new starter. When you energize the original solenoid it will send 12 volts down to both the new starter and solenoid and crank the engine. This is similar to the way the original Ford starter worked.
Hey Zigmont,
This is what I orignally did with the powermaster as that is what they advised to do with the starter is to put a small jumper wire between the two posts and then run a lead to the battery.
I think I now have everything wired up correctly I am just waiting on a new ignition switch and tumbler. Like I said earlier when I took mine out it came out in about 15 pieces and the insides looked pretty bad. What I'm thinking is that every time I turned the key that I was actually shorting everything out from a bad ignition switch.
Any comments on this?
Jeff
Here is a diagram of the before and after wiring for the starter.
I think what we have been trying to say is that its easier to do it this way..
Powermaster puts a little tag in their box giving detail about the starter after they have tested it. From the point of them boxing it up to my doorstep how does a starter go bad?
That is an easier way, but there is the potential issue of starter run-on. Here are a couple threads about mini-starter wiring:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/667850-mini-starter-wiring.html
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/789578-3g-alternator-mini-starter-battery-relocation.html
Guys thanks for the diagrams. They are extremely helpful.
Here is an update. Replaced the ignition with a new ignition. Now for the interesting part. Before I did anything else I decided to take out the powermaster XS and take it to get tested. Since it is a one wire hookup with no ground NAPA had a hard time trying to ground and test the unit. After a direct hookup they determined that my brand new expensive powermaster starter was no good.
I tried to put the original starter back in but it doesn't fit due to the new headers that I installed.
Man I'm pissed. I tried to get the powermaster back in thinking I would give it one more chance while using a new starter relay. But I ran out of time and patience and will attempt that tomorrow.
How often does a new starter show up on your door step not in working order?
Powermaster puts a little tag in their box giving detail about the starter after they have tested it. From the point of them boxing it up to my doorstep how does a starter go bad?
Any input here?
Jeff
...Here is an update... Now for the interesting part. Before I did anything else I decided to take out the powermaster XS and take it to get tested. Since it is a one wire hookup with no ground NAPA had a hard time trying to ground and test the unit. After a direct hookup they determined that my brand new expensive powermaster starter was no good...
...That leaves the solenoid and starter as the two most likely causes....Also, it might be worth pulling the starter out and getting it tested for free at AutoZone or similiar. If the starter tests OK, then buy a solenoid.
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