Hello guys, looking for some advice, I have a 66' mustang with a 351W, it has a edelbrock 1406 carb 600cfm, 289 performer intake, I'm looking for a good camshaft and heads that will work well with the carb and intake, let me know what it will take to get to 300+ horsepower if its possible with the carb and intake I have?
66' mustang
- Thread starter jnatj14
- Start date
SoCalCruising
Founding Member
fasttback
New Member
The carb should be OK, but to get the 289 intake to work on the 351 you will need to get some schedule 40, 1.5" PVC piping at your local Home Depot, cut 8 pieces to fit the gap caused by the shorter intake runners. Secure the pieces with rubber cement (remember, let this dry overnight for good adhesion). The water ports can be extended by using flexible dishwasher hose and sealing it up with aquarium sealant (this sealant is preferred because it does not react with the different metals). The misalignment of the intake bolts can be fixed by purchasing special order titanium off-set bolts (usually just for imports, but with some searching you can find these online). To prevent junk from falling into the valley, lay down some Reynolds 2-ply heavy duty aluminum foil before installing the manifold (don't forget to punch holes in the foil to allow the motor to vent during high rpm driving).
Let us know how it turns out.
Cobain03
Active Member
jb1dsl
Member
Once you have performed all the mods that fasttback has stated, then your air cleaner will be sitting too high. You must then find or fab up an air cleaner bypass kit. 
Seriously though, welcome jnatj14! If your engine does have the Performer 289 intake then you have either a 289 or 302 engine. If you really do have a 351 then you do not have a Performer 289 intake. Let us know.
Seriously though, welcome jnatj14! If your engine does have the Performer 289 intake then you have either a 289 or 302 engine. If you really do have a 351 then you do not have a Performer 289 intake. Let us know.
Shakin66
Founding Member
Well he should feel like a very welcome complete idiot after those very crafty responses.....As expensive as heads are I would still suggest a good set of aftermarket ones, even if that means a used set off of ebay. This would allow that engine to pump more air and thats how you build power. Either way WELCOME TO STANGNET!
Hey guys thanks for the warm welcome I'm sorry about the post I was confused myself, I was told it was a 351W but after reading this thread I decided to double check it and turns out its a 302 with the 289 performer and 600cfm, I was thinking about putting the 60329 heads and 2122 cam from edelbrock along with the carb and intake. Has anyone put together this combo. by the way I just recently purchase this vehicle should of done my homework before posting. If I would of known I was going to get this reception.. good to be part of this forum. Thanks guys.
fasttback
New Member
Sorry jnatj14 were just having fun. You were just a victim of some past bogus posts from new members looking for kicks.
There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site that will help you out. The Edelbrock cam and head package may be something to look at (simple and easy to understand addition). If you want to go beyond that, stroker kits (331 or 347) can put you at 300+ HP easy. Give us more info on your motor, trans, rear end, preferred driving habits, and affordability...and we can recommend components to set you up.
Welcome to :SNSign:
There are a lot of knowledgeable people on this site that will help you out. The Edelbrock cam and head package may be something to look at (simple and easy to understand addition). If you want to go beyond that, stroker kits (331 or 347) can put you at 300+ HP easy. Give us more info on your motor, trans, rear end, preferred driving habits, and affordability...and we can recommend components to set you up.
Welcome to :SNSign:
brianj5600
Active Member
how many times do i have to tell you, you cant use schedule 40 pvc. you HAVE to use schedule 80 pvc. remember this is a performance application, not grandma's fairlane.
jnatj14, start by making sure the short block is in good condition, otherwise you are throwing good money after bad. for a cam i am using a comp cams retrofit roller cam with .480lift and 260 advertised duration. for heads i recommend using the world products windsor jr heads, they will be a 40hp bolt on out of the box. for an intake the performer rpm or weiand stealth intake are the best ones for this application. i would use the 600cfm edelbrock carb that you already have. for headers i would use a set of tri-y headers. this mix of parts should allow you to reach your goal of 300hp, and be a very streetable engine. in fact it will be very similar to my 289 for my 66 coupe.
I have the Edelbrock 500CFM carb, Performer intake and Performer cam. Am about to buy heads. Mine is 289 so there is some difference. When I dynoed what I have at the rear wheels, in 4th at about 5300 RPM I got a little over 170 RWHP and about 214 Ft Lbs RWT at a little lower RPM. It was apparent that the 2.70 Diff is not letting the engine develop enough torque to turn the dyno well. SO, a change there is necessary as well. All that being said, go with RPM cam and heads to get the higher HP. I will probably see around 250 FW HP with the head and Diff upgrade (I hope) keeping the NON RPM components.
Before buying anything, figure out just what the engine is built of. What pistons, compression ratio, & crank stroke (could be either a 289 or 302)plus what cam is there to start with. To reach 300 hp, that intake will be the first thing to go. It's no better than the stock iron 289 intake was,it's only lighter. I ain't gonna comment on the carb, I'm a Holley guy.
how many times do i have to tell you, you cant use schedule 40 pvc. you HAVE to use schedule 80 pvc. remember this is a performance application, not grandma's fairlane.
Yeah, but my grandma Fairlane had an R CODE 427 with 2 four bbl carbs. Do you think the schedule 40 would be OK for this application?
jnatj14 these guys (well most of them) are giving you good info so you'll be on the right track.
Look for a number/letter/number combo next to the casting numbers you posted. They will be framed by what looks like a screwed in tag. That's the date code, the first number is the year of the 70's decade it was cast. The letter is the month (A thru M alphabetically starting with "A" for January, skipping the letter "I") Last number or numbers is the day of the month. 1H55 could be it, but instead of 55 it's 22. That would be August 22, 1971. Making it an early 1972 model year block.
