'66FBGT 289 Engine Rebuild Estimate

[hivewax]

'66FBGT 289 Engine Rebuild - 347 Stroke

here is the estimate i got from a local machine shop for the basic engine:

$1750 to boil block, install cam bearings, balance rotating assembly, press rod/pistons, grind/polish crankshaft, blueprint rotating assembly (?), install brass freeze plugs, bore block/cylinders, + assemble block. it includes these parts: rod bearings main bearings, cam bearings, full gasket set, SPEEDPRO hypereutectic pistons, rings, oil pump, hydraulic camshaft, hi rev lifters, + double roller timing set. $1350 for their custom SB Ford aluminum heads w/rocker studs, guide plates, hard p-rods, + roller tip. $3100 + 7% tax = $3317

add $250 to port + polish heads. add $600 for forged pistons + $250 for forged Eagle rods.

i'm asking for roller rockers.

1. is this a fair estimate?
2. what parts do you all recommend?
3. should i just buy a new crate engine?

thanx 4 the help.

 

[BullittStangV8]

I guess it depends on a couple factors. First what are "custom SB ford aluminum heads"? I doubt he has his own castings, so what company are they? What valves/springs/ratios? Also, what "forged pistons"? I guess what I mean to say is that its hard to judge how good of a deal it is, if we dont know the quality of the parts going into it. Also, what CI is it getting worked over to?

 

[iskwezm]

You can buy a assembled stroker shortblock for about $1950 with forged pistons/rods from most places then get your own heads. Sounds a little high to me.You also keep your old block and sell it to recoup a little.

 

[danny clemens]

$1,600 for a set of heads is quite a bit of money. You can buy a a set of AFR 165 or 185 heads cheaper than that and they are CNC ported.

 

[SoCalCruising]

The head price includes roller tip rockers and hardened pushrods, so the deal isn't as bad as all that. Those are probably Comp Magnum roller tip rockers. They have a sled base. They're fine for a good budget build.

This question is always tough to answer. If the shop really does a good job, its worth the price because good machining, parts and assembly is worth power. Plus you have someone local to go back to if you have issues. Since you are a customer, they will probably also be willing to give you good advice in the future should you decide to upgrade. I've formed a good relationship like that with a shop in my town and it has paid dividends. The shop is not the cheapest in town, but they are very good and so is their advice. I guess I'm saying that if you know that the shop does quality stuff, then don't worry about a $100-200 difference between prices.

What I would do is ask about swapping the crank and rods for 302 pieces. They may have take-out stuff for cheap. The pistons are the same.

 

[hivewax]

i called the machine shop. they're going to compare their heads to KC AFR 185's. i'll get back to them on the type of forged pistons. they carry all the top name brands so i choose whatever's out there. thanx for the replies. keep them coming! i want this build to be worth every penny.

From Keith Craft's EBay:

These are new Keith Craft CNC ported AFR 185's - p/n 1420, these are great for 302 or 351 engines, also for nitrous or blower engines, (hardened push rods required), these have a 185cc runner volume, Manley 2.020 intake/1.600 exhaust valves, 58cc or 61cc chambers, set up complete for .600 lift hydraulic roller cam, stud mount, upgraded KCR springs, Comp Cams 10 degree retainers and locks, these flow 280/195 cfm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...der-Heads_W0QQitemZ180132360602QQcmdZViewItem

 

[SoCalCruising]

185's are too big for a 289, in my opinion. You would be better off with 165s and 58cc chambers (shaved to 54cc would be better on a 289 or 302). I wouldn't use 185s unless stroking the motor, or building a real hipo 302.

 

[65fastbackresto]

I just got done with my motor

302 bored 30 over
crank was turned 10
new rings bearings
hypertechic pistons
used the old rods I think
milodon pushrods
edelbrock performer heads and intake (these 2 items were about $1500 total)
roller rockers
double timing chain
cam and anti pump up lifters
and arp bolts thruout the motor
If I`m missing anything just assume its on there, the motor was pretty much ready to run cept for carb and dist.

$3600 give or take $20 bucks
This price included the $250 core charge cause I didnt have a motor to rebuild.

I wouldn`t pour any money into somebody building me a set of heads, to many good choices on the aftermarket to do that.

 

[hivewax]

You can buy a assembled stroker shortblock for about $1950 with forged pistons/rods from most places.

do you or anybody have links to some built SB strokers?!

 

[danny clemens]

This is where I bought my AFR 185 heads http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=68_100 This price includes shipping and no taxes. I actually paid a little less than this a few months ago.

 

[iskwezm]

do you or anybody have links to some built SB strokers?!

http://http://www.dssracing.com/newbullet.htm
http://f-p-s.com/engines/short_blocks.html


and theres plenty others too

 

[sixtyfive]

I purchased my 347 from T & L engines which is a group who builds nascar engines along with a good selection of stroker engines for street cars.

The base price for one is $4,084.00

My total ended up at about 6,000 as I opted for billet aluminum pulleys, chromed alternator, and also included MSD setup and a carb

Heres a link to their 347 posting on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/302-Ford-347-Stroker-New-Crate-Engine-by-NASCAR-Shop_W0QQitemZ290162888481QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
430 HP 444 TQ Dyno Tested
When I got mine they had a 2 year warranty, now it is down to 1 year however.

I did not have much money going into my project and it was DEFINATLY worth upgrading to this from my shot 289

 

[zookeeper]

I bought a mild 302 off ebay for $2650 delivered to my door. The engine is a real bargain for a street engine and included .030" overbore, KB hypereutectic pistons, Comp Cams 268XE hyd cam, pushrods, roller rockers, springs and retainers, screw in studs and guideplates, 351W heads, all new valves, guides and a three-angle valvejob, plus mild port work on the exhaust side, new double roller timing chain, Melling high-volume pump, Edelbrock intake and chrome valve covers. It also was balanced and had a brand new balancer, oil pan and timing cover. It was built with all brand-name (not "off shore" copies) gaskets, bearings and new bolts throughout. All the literature such as the cam card and the builders warrantee card as well as a nice intial start up and break in guide was also in a packet fastened to the engine. The engine fired right up, no noise, no fuss and ran extremely smoothly. I would not hesitate to buy from this builder again and can get the email address if anyone's interested. BTW, I was originally going to rebuild my engine, but found out that the parts and labor would cost more than they were charging for the whole motor delivered! Not to mention that if I assemble the motor, the warrantee is zero, rather than 12 months. I'm a machinist, but I'm not a professional engine builder, and I'm pretty sure they use a few tricks that you and I don't know about. Nothing's worse than assembling your engine, then finding water in the oil, or wiping out the new cam, or having it overheat and wondering what you did wrong and how you're going to afford to fix it, since you over-extended your budget building the thing the first time.

 

[danny clemens]

If you do buy a crate engine make sure that they are recommended by other people. I know a guy that lost a lot of money because he went after a cheap deal.

 

[hivewax]

Update

here's my parts list:

March alum (under-drive) pulleys
billet steel harmonic balancer (zero balance + alum center hub)
Blue Thunder Products Cobra dual plane intake
CARTER mechanical street fuel pump
Hooker headers 1.75" primary w/anti-rust thermal barrier coating
Cobra alum T-pan, Cobra tall valve covers
K&N air cleaner w/extreme airflow top
EDELBROCK alum water pump
17" street lightweight cooling fan
Griffin alum radiator w/oil cooler (is staggered better?)

anybody have other additions, better recommendations or replacements. the car only sees streets + highways, but likes hi-performance.

intake manifold - what about EDELBROCK Performance RPM or Air Gap? others?
oil pan - what about Milodon or Aviaid options?

 

[D.Hearne]

Since it appears to me that you have very deep pockets, why bother rebuilding the 289? I'd pop for a stroker long block If I had the money. Or a built 351.

 

[valley firearms]

engine build

What he said. If your going to spend that kind of money why not stroke a 351. Doesn't a stroked 351 to 427 sound sexy?​

 

[hivewax]

i wish for deep pockets! i just saved up. and, after my radiator popped, the mustang itch came back to me... i wanted an alum radiator, AC, better gas mileage, etc.

a stroked orig 289ci w/ easily ~350hp and all those tasty racing parts sounds good to me on the street. if i go 351ci or more, gas becomes an issue. and, parts will be a little more. if the 289 is bad, then i'll opt for a Boss 302 or World/Dart 302 block.

i don't know... a prepped racing 289ci goes for a hefty price.

 

[hivewax]

Link

what do you all think of these 289/302 engines from HiPerformer?

http://hiperformer.com/engines/ford-mustang.html

 

[iskwezm]

what do you all think of these 289/302 engines from HiPerformer?

http://hiperformer.com/engines/ford-mustang.html

those look worse then a Kragens long block