68 Coupe Restore/Remod

D

dapenberthy

New Member

Sep 15, 2011

12

0

0

St. Louis, MO

Sep 15, 2011

#1

• Sep 15, 2011

• #1

I am working on a remod of a 68 coupe. I am pulling the I6 and have a 5.0 and top loader 4 speed to drop in. This is my first project and need some help in knowing what other things I need to modify to make the swap work. It is a cost effective project so looking at creative ideas to make this happen.

 

JonK

Member

Jun 6, 2007

276

0

16

Nashville (Smyrna), TN

Sep 15, 2011

#2

• Sep 15, 2011

• #2

Has the car been converted to V8 steering? 5 lug wheels? 8" or 9" rearend?
Do you have exh. manifolds for headers for the 302? headers often hit the clutch linkage if using the stock Zbar setup, hydraulic may work but could also have issues with headers or PB I think. More info. on what else has been converted on the car and what type of clutch setup.
Jon

 

65fastbackresto

Active Member

Apr 13, 2007

1,229

7

39

AR

Sep 15, 2011

#3

• Sep 15, 2011

• #3

Heres what you do.

Figure out what other parts you need (radiator, crossmember, blah blah blah) add all the figures together and come up with a total cost. Then multiply that by at least 2, probably closer to 3, and you got it.

I`, not trying to be smart***, it is what keeps happening to me.

 

Slobin3d

Active Member

Aug 29, 2011

246

17

38

Sep 15, 2011

#4

• Sep 15, 2011

• #4

65fastbackresto said:

Figure out what other parts you need (radiator, crossmember, blah blah blah) add all the figures together and come up with a total cost. Then multiply that by at least 2, probably closer to 3, and you got it.

I`, not trying to be smart***, it is what keeps happening to me.

Click to expand...

I call that the Misc Crap fund For all the unexpected unseen junk that goes along with doing something that should have been simple

 

Grantiz84

New Member

May 5, 2008

12

0

1

Oregon

Sep 15, 2011

#5

• Sep 15, 2011

• #5

I just finished doing this swap and it costed me 3k easy with the rear end, front suspension, all the little stuff. The motor was only $50 dollars so that saved me a bit. You never specified if the mustang is a auto or manual, because that would make a huge difference in cost for the swap. Also the headers I got cleared the z-bar no problem, but if I could afford it I would have gone with a hydraulic clutch.

 

D

dapenberthy

New Member

Sep 15, 2011

12

0

0

St. Louis, MO

Sep 16, 2011

#6

• Sep 16, 2011

• #6

it is a manual. haven't gotten a new rearend yet. 8 or 9? any opinions?

 

65fastbackresto

Active Member

Apr 13, 2007

1,229

7

39

AR

Sep 16, 2011

#7

• Sep 16, 2011

• #7

An 8 inch is fine.

I have a buddy thats been drag racing a maverick for 20 years with drag slicks on on 8 inch rear, never had a problem.

I also run an 8 inch posi in my car, about 350 hp, no problems either.

 

Grantiz84

New Member

May 5, 2008

12

0

1

Oregon

Sep 17, 2011

#8

• Sep 17, 2011

• #8

I don't know. I picked up my 9" for $550 but I've seen 8" go for much cheaper. I guess it just comes down to availability and cost. I got mine from West Coast Cougar in Salem Oregon. They had about 30 complete 9" rearends for about $400, but they had to be rebuilt.