68 GT500KR Vert Restomod Project

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 17, 2007

Well the project is on hold for a little while I find a new builder, try to save up funds, and acquire parts that were lost.

NasaGT · Oct 18, 2007

What happened?

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 18, 2007

Let's just say I'm not a happy camper.

NasaGT said:
What happened?

phast69 · Oct 18, 2007

Don't tell me someone stole your car or something....or stole some of the parts waiting to go on it.....seriously I was hoping you'd be done soon. Good luck.

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 18, 2007

No one stole my car or parts. My car is back home in my garage. Parts were just lost. I'll just leave it at that.

It's all fine. I feel that the car will end up even better than before. I'm not worried about it.

My next step is to get the car re-soda blasted and primed.

rusty428cj · Oct 18, 2007

Please don't get it soda blasted. Too many things can go wrong if you don't get all the residue off why take a chance of the paint coming off in a few years or less.

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 18, 2007

I might just get it media blasted this time. It's only the cowl, interior, doors, firewall, and tail light panel.

The restoration shops I've been talking to said they could just do those sections over using their little media blaster since you won't really see those panels anyway. I just want to remove the rust that's currently under the primer.

I don't want bubbles in a few years.

rusty428cj said:
Please don't get it soda blasted. Too many things can go wrong if you don't get all the residue off why take a chance of the paint coming off in a few years or less.

rusty428cj · Oct 18, 2007

I hope this link works please read about soda blasting.
http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=1665&mforum=spi

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 18, 2007

Interesting, thanks.

this is who I used: http://www.chesapeakesodaclean.com/

He's done a lot of car and boats. But like anything it's all about the prep work afterwards before you start putting on the primer.

rusty428cj said:
I hope this link works please read about soda blasting.
http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=1665&mforum=spi

68GT500KR_Vert · Oct 19, 2007

Back Home In My Garage

I've got some good leads on moving the car to a new restoration shop to finish up the body & chassis work.

In the meantime I'll install the suspension and brakes to let it roll again.

68GT500KR_Vert · Jan 17, 2009

Well 1.5 years later

I just finished up my another college degree and let the car sit while doing that. I kept taling to people about good guys to work with and I found someone a while back. Now I'm getting back to the project. I let it sit too long, a little surface rust developed. Going back over the car today I noticed a bunch of things the previous guy did wrong while working on it.

Anyway I organized all my parts, boxed up the one needed for the next phase of the project.

Next Phase:
Finish MII suspension
Install engine mounts
Create a custom trans mount
Install Subframe connectors
Install 3" magnaflow exhaust
Modify Total Control's X-brace to fit with a custom vert support bracing.
Finish the sheetmetal for the engine compartment
Order custom Ron Davis radiator - the orginal Ron Davis one i ordered did not fit.
Mount Radiator
Prime / Paint Interior(Non-Visible) / Engine Compartment chassis black.
Paint Chassis with bedliner coating
Finalize rear suspension
Install Dynamat
Install Wiring
Install Brakes / Plumbing
Install Fuel system

At this point the engine should be in, exhaust in, wiring in, trans in, suspension in, brakes in, fuel system in, and the car drivable.

The next step will be to find a body shop to repair minor issues, prep and paint the car.

I'll add some current pictures tomorrow.

68GT500KR_Vert · Jan 18, 2009

Photos

68GT500KR_Vert · Jan 18, 2009

I also had to find and buy little parts that were lost when I got my car back. That took a while because some of them were original mustang parts that are hard to find. Today I removed all the little items the last builder didn't bother to take off before he sprayed it with primer (besides the rust he sprayed right over) like the ignition & headlight switches, the covertible top switch, little screws on the interior, pieces of the dashboard, washer pump, a sheetmetal screw he used to hold a panel in place while he welded it, the door handles and locks. So it's finally stripped.

One of the biggest problems the last two days has been trying to figure out all the little nuts and bolts that were lost by the last builder and replacing them while installing the rear and front suspension and getting it rolling again. I had to bring it home on carpet dollies. I had a few trips to the local auto store to get that fixed.

Finally back on all 4 wheels, load with all the parts to go to the new builder, and ready to roll!

I'm so excited to take another step towards it's completion. So are my little boys, they "Helped" today and yesterday with little things like tightening bolts and helping use the air impact. Plus it's been like 20 degrees outside.

The full build is here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2576876

BarnStang · Jan 18, 2009

Soda blasting IS a safe, efficient, cost effective way to get paint off the car, NOT RUST. But, only if it's done right. Here is THE link to explain it from the CHesapeake site:
Hold Tight Solutions
We use the Holdtight solution as described. The Holdtight solution stops the oxidation. If the car is kept inside, it's good for MONTHS. But we normally paint epoxy primer on within a week. We have had ZERO paint issues.
In answer to our need to not media blast twice to remove paint then the cost to use sand on the rust, our soda blaster bought a new media tank that attaches to his air equiment and blows environmentally safe crushed recycled auto glass.

Beautiful project! THe guy who does our soda blasting is finishing a simular car. 68 vert with "some" Shelby body parts, tail, deck lid, scoops on the sides, hood, and the nose is an R model I think. Dark green metalic with Ivy Gold two tone int. I told him it looked like a disco ball when I saw after paint

68GT500KR_Vert · Mar 6, 2009

I was worried about backspacing, but they look like they fit fine as is. Plus I'm probably still going to mini-tub when the rear quarters are replaced. I'll probably have the tires on next week sometime, trying decide if I should go local or buy from the tire rack. Local is a little more money, but they mount and balance them; plus if I have to change sizes later they said they would do it. I've been getting our cars serviced at this place for years.

68GT500KR_Vert · Mar 7, 2009

Ever Since I Saw Reen Do It I knew I Wanted To Use The Fox Body Style Bar. $225, Never Used On Craig's List, 5 Miles From My House. What Are The Odds? The Shelby One Goes For $800 + Shipping.

Cleaned Up The Rear Seat Frame

68EFIvert · Mar 7, 2009

That is a great deal. Congrats on finding a part that isn't made anymore.

68GT500KR_Vert · Mar 7, 2009

Darreld,

Did your bar line up like that? Doesn't look like it will interfere with the rear window operation at all? or is the bar supposed to be back further?

68EFIvert · Mar 7, 2009

After you get the Shelby panels you will notice the angle of the bottom of the bar is a little off. I cut off the metal tabs for the windows because I have power windows and then was able to slide the bars back to the bar lined up better with the panel. If you want to retain the brackets You could just adjust the legs of the bar so that they will go around the tab. It would be easy to do with a cut off wheel and a grinder. Have you ordered the interior panels yet or do you plan on making them?

68GT500KR_Vert · Mar 7, 2009

I bought them a while back; I almost have everything to complete the car. I might just cut off the legs leaving 2 inches and weld a smaller pipe onto an angle iron bracket and then just run a bolt through it; that would sit higher then the window opening. I want to use the power window switches that look like classic ones.

AutoLoc EWS-2 - AutoLoc Electric Window Crank Switches - summitracing.com

68EFIvert said:
After you get the Shelby panels you will notice the angle of the bottom of the bar is a little off. I cut off the metal tabs for the windows because I have power windows and then was able to slide the bars back to the bar lined up better with the panel. If you want to retain the brackets You could just adjust the legs of the bar so that they will go around the tab. It would be easy to do with a cut off wheel and a grinder. Have you ordered the interior panels yet or do you plan on making them?

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