I have to finalize the design of the convert plate; going to add some metal sides to add some strength and cut out some on the main plate to allow cooling under there. The car is back in the garage until we move to the new house./QUOTE]
There is some very very nice work here, but at first I was going to be critical of using spacers on the convertible plate, as you really lose the strength there. But your idea of metal sides, or plates, or "wings" added to the sides is really inspired. This makes me really think about adding spacers, "wings", and putting my exhaust back where it belongs above the convertible plate. Personally I would tie the plates into my Tinman subframes that go through the convertible plate. so the underseat subfloor ties ALL of that - subframes, plate, etc., to the rocker panels.
I also really like your idea of the TCP convertible brace welded to that plate. Very nice work there.
I've seen and participated in a lot of convertible floor pan reinforcement threads, and threads about what to do about the bolt-in plate and exhausts, and you have some very good ideas there. The only thing I would add is that if you can tie the plate to your subframe connectors and to the rocker panels, or at the very least to that convertible subfloor plate, you would have an UNBEATABLE subframe/convertible plate-compatible-with-exhaust/rocker panel reinforcement system. Something that even the coupe and fastback guys might consider to strengthen up the middle of their ride. A lot of those guys are thinking about the convertible subfloor system, and if they did that, they would be well advised to follow your lead and drop and reinforce the plate.
Nice work!
I like everything you're doing with the exception of the digital gauges.
Nice build. I'm really glad to see guys are still into Eleanor! I'm one of the original from way back. I've been working on my car since before the 1st kits were available from Cinema Vehicles. Man, these things take a long time when you're broke all the time
Anyway, I was wondering about the wheels you chose. What backspacing and size did you go with? I can't get Shelby Wheels to return my calls.
Thanks and you car is going to be amazing!
been watching from the start ,i cant wait either, JimBrought the car down to Outlaws Rod & Custom today to get an estimate for the remaining work. I've checked out their shop and their work and had the owner check out my car at my house. They are building some great cars down there and I've been impressed with how they treat their customers. They have some amazing cars down there. One guy's Chevelle is crazy, $350k into it, never seen anything like it, and they have a bunch of really nice mustangs and a couger.It's so nice to be working with professionals, i feel good about leaving the car there. Instead of asking me what I wanted done, they immediately started telling me the right way to do it. They will strip the car back down, send it off to media blasting again, since the last guy sprayed primer over the surface rust, epoxy prime it at the blaster, then start fixing and finishing the metal.Can wait to see the estimate and get them started.
if you havnt rolled the wheel lips yet roll a 1/8 inch wire into them it will stiffen themThese are the Shelby Wheels - CS67 Chrome (18x8.5 front / 18x9.5 back)
I have their stock BS. They don't offer them any other way.
I have a R&D Mustang II Front End and Coilover Rear. They fit great. I haven't even rolled the fenders yet.
I'm running BFGoodrich g-Force™ T/A® KDW (245/35ZR18 front / back 285/35/18) and I could have gone wider out back.
Waiting on $$$$ for final Body & Paint, otherwise the car is done. I'm also trying to find a good bodyshop somewhere around Norfolk or Richmond Virginia.
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