86 gt frying wire $5,000 later please help

you guys rock

thanks for all your help guys i will do the chart first thing in the morning and post the results...the black and light green stripe wire and black wire can go anywhere to the frame? also all three fuse links go to the post that hot at all times right?one more question...how do i know what voltage is acceptable for each wire? anyway i will post the results in a chart so i can get this fu****r rollin i have more than $5,000 in upgrades waiting to be played with...okay i lied one more silly question... would there be an easy way to swipe and swap wiring from a junked 86gt cause i know the problem has nothing to do with the main engine harness because i've had another one in with the same problem...any ideas....anyone looking for 373 ford racing gears? i would sell them cheap for help thanks again guys
 
.......the black and light green stripe wire and black wire can go anywhere to the frame? also all three fuse links go to the post that hot at all times right?one more question...how do i know what voltage is acceptable for each wire?......................

................. would there be an easy way to swipe and swap wiring from a junked 86gt cause i know the problem has nothing to do with the main engine harness because i've had another one in with the same problem...any ideas....anyone looking for 373 ford racing gears? i would sell them cheap for help thanks again guys

The puter ground is best put with the battery ground pigtail, but at this point, if you can find an impeccable grounding location that you're sure will work, I suppose you could use that for right now (read temporary).

With any other ground wires you find (that you're sure are ground wires), put them where they went originally if feasible. You might end up using a grounding point for several ground wires. If doing this, it's not a bad idea to run a grounding pathway cable from the negative battery terminal to this new grounding location. This is helpful with sheetmetal grounding locations.

Normally I can skimp on some things because if there is an issue, I know where it is. But you have such a massive mess, not doing the wiring 100% correct could create more issues (that you thought were solved, which is almost worst because you end up starting diagnostics over). I've done that before.

Fusible links generally do go to the battery solenoid stud.

I test wires for resistance to ground, and then what's left for constant 12 volts. Then I check what's still left for key-on 12 volts. Dont do anything that risks a fire however. And bench test your leads before testing. Few things piss me off more than doing a batch of tests and finding that I had a poor meter connection on the lead that wasn't used for probing stuff (like having a bad connection to the negative battery terminal when doing resistance testing to ground).

I have no idea about donor harnesses. Others will.

Good luck.
 
yeah good idea, burn your house down, just dont burn the car down..at the very minimum use those waterproof butt connectors

~Mark~

Amazing... 15 year old ryan218 has more sense that this guy...


ALL splices should be soldered and covered with heat shrink. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 if you don't know how to do it.
 
why why why

i was looking for assistance not criticism jerks...weather there's crimped connectors heat shrink connectors solder poop mud water...the result is still the same-that fusible link get hot....the pics are shown to show what wires i'm talking about...not a gallery of beautiful photos....i chopped the connectors off to see if they were loose and at fault was that dumb too? prick
 
i have repeatedly tested wires and wrote down the values but i can decifer what they mean some have 12v and some dont, some only in run, some only in the on position how do i figure it all out?
Try posting the results of your test & measurement chart in a neat and easy to read format. Them maybe some of the rest of us can help.
 
starter solonoid/fuse links getting hot please help...my babys burning up need my 5.0

can anyone tell me where the red w/blue stripe wire in the middle of the distributor harness plug is supposed to be routed to...it's only hot in run...all other wires get 12v in the KOEO (key on engine off) my starter solonoid is getting really hot and starting to smoke when i try to start it and havent been able to figure it out for months now...it's time to get her going no matter what it takes..but i need some help...i began testing wires and most are getting normal 12v where theyre supposed to...so having a hard time deciding what to test and how to interpret my findings...does anyone have a diagram of the ecm 60pin connector for an 86 5.0 because i got one from a junk yard and it had a couple splices in it so i think they tried converting to mass air with it and the harness is slightly different color wise than my original one not sure what to make of it maybe it was actually an 87 or 88 i know the connectors are the same but the color of the wires are different and the new one i got has a relay by the coil don't remember my original one having one....anyway need to get her going can you please tell me what pictures i could take and post and how to diagnose my problem?
I have fuel pressure, spark, and turnes over but the fusible links begin to smoke as i try to start it...
I get 12v to the injectors themselves but no injector pulse....ahhh what can i do fellas? i have some friends at work with hondas and need to show them what my cobra status and above 5.0 can do.....thank you
 
Check out the diagram below. The red/blue wire goes to the TFI connector. It goes to the place
between the red/green wire and the yellow wire. Copy the arrangement of wires on the TFI plug in
the drawing and you will be good to go.

The red/blue wire is only supposed to be powered on when you turn the ignition switch to Start.
It is used to tell the TFI to give more dwell time so that the engine will have more spark for starting.
It turns off when the ignition switch goes to Run because the TFI can’t make proper spark at high
RPMs with it powered on.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
 

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Only in run????

Okay so i have that wire tied into another red blue wire for the starter..i guess that correct because it get about 8v in start otherwise nearly nothing...i've traced all the wires down from the firewall solonoid and all seem to be intact and operative but they still get red hot and smoke if i try to start it for two long..i'm missing some small link and just dont know what..ive taken all the looms and tape off the wiring so i can follow it..they all go where suppose to...what's next? what can i test or take a picture of for you to help me figure out whats going on.......for the fuse links.....the yellow wire i traced all the way to the fuel pump relay (12ga) and intact with power... fusible link black w/brown stripe goes to th eec relay....3rd fusible link-one wire (red w/orange stripe) goes through the firewall past the wirer motor to the back of the fuse block (i think its the same wire) and its a 15amp fuse-fuse is good..the other wire off the third fusible link is like 8ga yellow wire that goes from solonoid around the front clip into the firwall next to the inlet for the main engine harness-i lose that wire from there cant find where it goes but i think it goes to the ignition...i know this is hard to decipher because you arent looking at it or worked with it but i appreciate any help and would be happy to take pictures if that would help....see i think i have two fuel pump relays because i dont remember having a relay next to the coil and am not sure what it's for unless maybe the a/c but the fuel pump relay is under my drivers seat...everything gets the power it needs (i think) because it all primes and holds pressure and turns on and off like it should...sorry so long just real stumped...please help?:bang:
 
Just stating the obvious...Heat means resistance in electrical applications. It indicates wires too small to carry specified current, bad connections, shorts to ground (be it in the wire or bad electrical component) I would follow the digrams provided and please make sure your grounds (battery to chassis, heads to firewall and engine to chasis)are up to snuff..
 
MY GROUNDS

i have checked my grounds time and time again... something is out of place...i just need the help of what to test or look for...i have looked at the wiring way tooo many times!!!! i wanna just swap harnesses from a junk car but wouldnt know which ones to swap..!?!:shrug:
 
I'm not trying to be a jerk or anything, but I really don't think anyone can help you anymore than they have already. You have every diagram posted that you need, along with a ton of helpful tips on proper wiring techniques. You need to simplify it. Take on component at a time, find the wiring that goes with it, and make sure it is run the right way. Are you checking to see if these wires are shorted to ground, or only for the resitance from each end? It sounds like you are only checking voltages. There must be a wire somewhere not going where its supposed to. A picture will never show anyone over the internet. You just need to take the diagram out with you, pick something, follow the wire, and see if it matches the diagram, then check it off, move to the next component. Either that or find some local to come look at it. It looks like its been months since you started, you have to throw in the towel at some point.

Like i said, I think you are making it much more complicated than it is. Take it one wire at a time. you will find it somewhere.