86' STANG, PROCHARGER, NITROUS=NO TRACTION PLEASE HELP..!

PCB

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Jan 16, 2007
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Dear Friends:
I have a 1986 mustang, I have a stock block running all forged internals, AFS heads, procharger at 14 psi, 150hp nitrous plate, edelbrook RPM intake, 42 pounds injectors, water methanol injection, mcleod cluth, steel bell housing, tremec TKO proshifted tranny, detroit locker differential, 3.55 ratio, moser axles...I am making 520 RWHP and 625 lbs of torque.
This car usually is driven in the street, but I go to the track for drag racing every monday night.
The thing is very simple, my suspension is almost bone stock, I only added the traction action bars from lakewood and upper ford motorsports control arms, i use competition engineer drag shocks at the rear and I use stock front suspension at front.
When I go to the track I use hossiers 26x9x15 drag tires.
The track in my country is not a professional drag strip type.
Is a road racing track, made of common asphalt, no traction additives, is just like your normal street roads.
Having all these,...you would now know what is the picture....
NO TRACTION WHAT SO EVER, ....my car just burns those tires up, even if I launch the car at 1000 rpm...they just go up in flames...on first and second gears it is just uncontrolable spinning.
Recently I tried to play with the traction bars positions, and it went from worst to an uncontrolable wheel hoop...tire bouncing all the way...
So, let me have all the suggestions...I could spend 1000 dollars ( not included the tires) to solve the situation, but if I need to go the extra mile,. i would do it.
I just want to car to handle well at the starting line, and decent steet driving confort.
Please all the information such us part numbers and who to talk and order would be mich apreciatted since I am outside the USA.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Best regards.
Pablo..
 
hmm.....its gonna be tough to get the traction that you need making that kind of power. are you spraying off the line also? the only thing i can think of is to get some lakewood 90/10s or 70/30s and some drag springs for the front. get tubular control arms for the front to try a lighten the front up a little. you could also get a nitrous controller and not spray until you hit third....but that could also be very dangerous if you break loose or get massive wheel hop at those speeds. i think the best way to do it is to not spray it off the line if you are
 
Are you spraying off the line also?
Lol if he is launching at 1k he can not be spraying. 90/10 and 70/30's both suck on the street.

I would put some strange 10 ways on all 4 corners and get some drag springs. If you can afford it maybe a coil over kit. Take out the arms you have now get some double adjustable uppers and adjustable lowers. If you dont want to shop around for all of it your best be might be a suspension in a box type kit like one from maximum motorsports
 
I can solve this problem for very cheap:

VHT Traction Compound.
http://www.bazellracefuels.com/VHT.htm

You say they don't prep the track.. so prep it ur self! Or covers ur slicks in it. Whatever you choose.

I've seen people use this on the street and yank the front wheels a few inches. So it should definitely help you out.

Alternatively you can do the RIGHT thing. Go to a real track for crying out loud :rolleyes:
 
http://www.globalwest.net/mustang 79-98.htm#Traclink Traction kits

i bought this a while ago from a friend and it was the best piece i have ever bought. i now have no wheelhop and the car plants way harder. i dont even really need control arms with 300ish rwhp and chitty street tires(fuzion zri 245s) im soon gettin MM lowers and boxing my uppers so i cant even imagine how well ill plant then. its wroth taking a look at
 
i had that global west trac-link on my car, and its great to stop wheelhop but if your gonna use it for drag racing forget about it, The trac link helped me hook up when i was running around 260 rwhp but as soon as i put the blower on my car it did nothing for me. It also limits weight transfer which is what you definitly DON'T want!

I'd try the VHT and if that dosent work, try some adjustable struts like others mentioned and mabye even a anti-roll bar like this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UPR-MUSTANG-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-KIT_W0QQitemZ260054195406QQcmdZViewItem
 
dear friends:
thanks a million for all the comments, they all help me to decide what to do.
I did use the VHT with no changes, still no traction.
Today I tried something new, I place the Lakewood Traction Bars in the 3 positions, and this were the results.
1. Upper positions of the Lower Control Arm= uncontrollable wheel hop...tire where bouncing like hell.
2. Middle Position, about 75% less tire bouncing, much better traction, But I can not launch the car over 2000 rpm and I need to control the clutch to avoid tire spin.
3. Lower Position of the lower control arm= NO wheel Hop, but an uncontrollable tire spin, doesn't matter if I play with the clutch.

So the guess is right, middle position is much better , but still having traction problems very bad.
Do I need to throw those traction bars? I would not mind if I get a better traction.
The anti roll bar is good suggestion , but I need something to solve this situation.
Thanks to all of you...!!!
Please keep the advices coming, they are very helpful.
Best regards.
Pablo.
 
I can solve this problem for very cheap:

VHT Traction Compound.
http://www.bazellracefuels.com/VHT.htm

You say they don't prep the track.. so prep it ur self! Or covers ur slicks in it. Whatever you choose.

I've seen people use this on the street and yank the front wheels a few inches. So it should definitely help you out.

Alternatively you can do the RIGHT thing. Go to a real track for crying out loud :rolleyes:

lol "VHT TrackBlack enhances teh appearance of the less-used track surface."

VHT is teh win
 
by the way, I saw that many of you guys refer to "MM lower control arms". Where do I get some information about that product?
Thanks.
Pablo

www.maximummotorsports.com

Get a very stiff rear sway bar. This will help keep both of the rear tires on the ground better. Get rid of your front swaybar, and get soft springs and shocks for the front. This will help the nose to come up, putting more weight on the rear.

Look at your torque boxes too. When you hook, you'll want the torque boxes to be strong, or you'll rip them out.
 
I just can not keep this question in my head...so here I go...
I am using the Traction Bars from lakewood #21900.
I already said here at the forum that the middle position of the traction bar gave me the best traction with street tires.
I also looked around for all the components you guys suggested to me at the forum.
But my specific question is about the Lower Control Arm, most referred as "LCA".
I am using the Lakewood as I already said, and looking at all the LCA's options...all of them seem the same thing...are they?...I mean..are the length equal from one to another?...I will leave the adjustable type for the obvious reason...but other than that...all of them seem the same...one are round tube, others are square type...maybe the granatelly LCA is a little different, because the adjustable spring perch...other that than...they all look the same...straight to the ends.
So..the major question here is...are all the same size?....if so...the only difference would be the attaching side..just my Lakewood....that definitive would change that pinion angle no doubt...and also if I use the Upper Control Arms with the difference size too or the adjustable type.
I ma pretty aware that chenging the pinion angle is a most to achieve the best traction possible, along with struts, springs....and so on.
What I need is to know if I can keep the lakewoods or should I just throw them to the trash can....
If that take care of my problem I would gladly do it...
So please help me with it....
Thanks guys....all the help is much appreciated.
Best regards.
pablo .