Well....
Please remember that I am as green/new as can be to these cars and electronic/fuel injected/ "modern/new fangled" stuff. A week ago I didn't even know what a TAD or TAB switch or valve was, or what they do. I'm learning fast!
I already determined that the EGR valve was stuck closed or had a bad diaphragm and a TAD switch stuck open and I wanted to have the pricey parts in hand before tearing into it. Totally lucked out at the pic-n-pull, brand new looking (inside and out) Ford EGR valve with a new Ford EGR position sensor and a TAD vacuum switch=$5.57 for all
. Got home, tore into it, pulled the EGR valve (it was stuck closed but not clogged and after breaking the tit loose the diaphragm tested good=BONUS) and decided that the easiest/best way to clean the EGR gasket surface was to remove the throttle body and then the EGR spacer and clean them up real good while I'm at it. I started to remove the 2 little hoses at the top of the EGR spacer to get them out of the way and found the little (brass I think) nipples to be somewhat corroded/eaten away, hhmmm.... it was at this time that I realized that those little hoses were coolant lines
that I can only assume are for helping cold start warmups and/or helping to cool EGR gasses?
After getting the throttle body off I found a bunch of red gunk (typical cooling system sludge) in the outer chamber of the EGR spacer
. The EGR spacer does not want to budge, which leads to my question(s):
Any and all help and advice is warmly welcomed
Thanks In Advance,
Gene
Please remember that I am as green/new as can be to these cars and electronic/fuel injected/ "modern/new fangled" stuff. A week ago I didn't even know what a TAD or TAB switch or valve was, or what they do. I'm learning fast!
I already determined that the EGR valve was stuck closed or had a bad diaphragm and a TAD switch stuck open and I wanted to have the pricey parts in hand before tearing into it. Totally lucked out at the pic-n-pull, brand new looking (inside and out) Ford EGR valve with a new Ford EGR position sensor and a TAD vacuum switch=$5.57 for all
that I can only assume are for helping cold start warmups and/or helping to cool EGR gasses?
After getting the throttle body off I found a bunch of red gunk (typical cooling system sludge) in the outer chamber of the EGR spacer
. The EGR spacer does not want to budge, which leads to my question(s):
-Before I go wailing on anything or otherwise causing damage out of ignorance, is the EGR spacer held on by the studs and a hidden nut or shoulder on the studs or should it just slide off?
A-If it should just slide off, it won't, as the studs appear to be married/gunked to the spacer, I don't plan to hammer on anything as I don't want to break anything.
B-Would a good solution be to lock 2 nuts onto each stud and attempt to turn them out?
- -After getting the spacer off, I assume I should take off the small diameter coolant pipes along the top of the intake/valve cover, clean them out and flush out as much as I can without the engine running and then once it's all back together do a good, thorough cooling system flush?
- -What can I do to replace the little brass nipples in the EGR spacer. Carefully drill them out and press or thread new ones in?
- -Given that there was enough carbon to seize up the EGR valve, do I need to pull the intake, etc. and clean out all of the passages leading to the EGR?
A-How involved is all of this and how far do I need to go?
B-Do I need to take apart the whole top of the engine?
Any and all help and advice is warmly welcomed
Thanks In Advance,
Gene