Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place

stanglx2002 · Jan 24, 2018

I made a couple more steps forward on the instrument cluster. I cut the hole for the LCD screen in the Plexiglass and test fitted it. To me it looks fantastic, so I went ahead drilling the mounting holes for the screen.

After mounting the screen I noticed it doesn't sit flush, so this was my stopping point until I can get some washers to space it and longer bolts. The ones that come with it are for computers of course making them only 1/4" long.

I also sanded the front of the plexiglass so I can paint it black and glue the abs when cut out.

On to the pictures:

Next, I will be cutting the ABS sheet to finish it off

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 24, 2018

I'm barely following along here..( too many abbreviations, too stupid everywhere else)

I just looked at what a RPI3 is. Never even knew they made one of these this cheap.

What OS do you put on this thing to support TS? Does TS run full time then, or is this a version of Shadow logger.

Will you then just use a small Bluetooth keyboard to change/modify programming when needed?

I find this really intriguing, being able to change the gauge display on a whim alone would be worth it, much less the other benefits of being able to add/delete gauges as needed.

*Edit...never mind...I just "self educated" a little on Adafruit.....Way more involved than my understanding of computers,...

stanglx2002 · Jan 25, 2018

CarMichael Angelo said:
I'm barely following along here..( too many abbreviations, too stupid everywhere else)

I just looked at what a RPI3 is. Never even knew they made one of these this cheap.

What OS do you put on this thing to support TS? Does TS run full time then, or is this a version of Shadow logger.

Will you then just use a small Bluetooth keyboard to change/modify programming when needed?

I find this really intriguing, being able to change the gauge display on a whim alone would be worth it, much less the other benefits of being able to add/delete gauges as needed.

*Edit...never mind...I just "self educated" a little on Adafruit.....Way more involved than my understanding of computers,...

I was wondering when you would be stopping by Mike. Let me shed some light on the dark tunnel for you.

RPi3 (Raspberry Pie 3 Model B) is a small computer that is used for all kinds of different things, but was design to be used for robotics. Many of the DIY people use them for "car computers", old game consoles (look up retro pie), home surveillance, etc... The reason most use these is they are cheap $40, fast for a small computer, and opens the door to all kinds of projects.

The OS (Operating System) is linex based meaning it is written in computer code. I don't really know how to do that, but thats what they make Google for. There are many OS systems that you can use, but the common ones are Noobs and Raspbian. I will be using Raspbian on this project since from my research on MSExtra that is the most common OS I have been seeing used.

Yes, it does support TS (Tunerstudio) full version and no it is not like Shadow Logger. It is the same software that you are using on the laptop.

Yes, you can use the same hardware that you use on other computers Bluetooth keyboard, USB keyboard, USB mouse, etc. I am currently thinking of just using a mini USB mouse, and stick it in the glove box until needed.

I will also being setting the RPi up, so when you turn the key "ON" then the computer will boot up, automatically launch TS, and display the dashboard in full screen. My goal is to also insert a "splash screen" this is the image or video that you see in newer cars before the display shows on the dash or center console. I dont know what I am going to use just yet, but that is a goal of this project rather than watching a blank screen or computer code. I am also goal wise pushing to have the dash displayed in 30 sec or less as well.

I have a few reasons for this project:

1. Removal of the 3 pod gauge pillar with Water Temperature, Oil Pressure, and Transmission Temperature. These were added due to the crap stock ones

2. Removal of the stock instrument cluster that only has 4 working gauges (Tach, Speedometer, Fuel Level, and Battery) disabled the Water Temp and Oil Pressure for the above gauges

3. Removal of the tuning laptop in the passenger seat for the need of datalogging, since I dont have the MS3 with the onboard SD card

4. Increase the amount gauges to show all the vitals wanted (14 in total)

5. Ability to change/add/delete/edit any of the gauges I want, but also if I want a different display I can just change it

6. Ability to make tuning changes as needed

7. Removal of bouncing speedometer due to the cable, removal of the transmission kick-down cable, removal of the CD player for bluetooth enabled music player installed on the RPi

I hope this has been a little more helpful to you, but also to anyone else that maybe following this build thread. I will try not to abbreviate as much but to explain more of details, since this is just one of many projects that will be done on this car. Still have to take out the AOD and put the 4R70W transmission in the car, which means the installation of the Microsquirt for the duty of a TCU (Transmission Control Unit). The TCU will be connected to the current MS2 via CAN bus used for engine control meaning that I will have complete control of the entire engine and transmission both from the dash. This leads to the multi transmission modes that newer cars have of Normal, Sport, and Manual with just a flip of a grounded trigger switch. This then leads to the paddle shifters that are only used in Manual mode that you probably saw as well.

Noobz347 · Jan 25, 2018

Can you do alldatchit you just said?

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 25, 2018

stanglx2002 said:
I was wondering when you would be stopping by Mike. Let me shed some light on the dark tunnel for you.

RPi3 (Raspberry Pie 3 Model B) is a small computer that is used for all kinds of different things, but was design to be used for robotics. Many of the DIY people use them for "car computers", old game consoles (look up retro pie), home surveillance, etc... The reason most use these is they are cheap $40, fast for a small computer, and opens the door to all kinds of projects.

The OS (Operating System) is linex based meaning it is written in computer code. I don't really know how to do that, but thats what they make Google for. There are many OS systems that you can use, but the common ones are Noobs and Raspbian. I will be using Raspbian on this project since from my research on MSExtra that is the most common OS I have been seeing used.

Yes, it does support TS (Tunerstudio) full version and no it is not like Shadow Logger. It is the same software that you are using on the laptop.

Yes, you can use the same hardware that you use on other computers Bluetooth keyboard, USB keyboard, USB mouse, etc. I am currently thinking of just using a mini USB mouse, and stick it in the glove box until needed.

I will also being setting the RPi up, so when you turn the key "ON" then the computer will boot up, automatically launch TS, and display the dashboard in full screen. My goal is to also insert a "splash screen" this is the image or video that you see in newer cars before the display shows on the dash or center console. I dont know what I am going to use just yet, but that is a goal of this project rather than watching a blank screen or computer code. I am also goal wise pushing to have the dash displayed in 30 sec or less as well.

I have a few reasons for this project:

1. Removal of the 3 pod gauge pillar with Water Temperature, Oil Pressure, and Transmission Temperature. These were added due to the crap stock ones

2. Removal of the stock instrument cluster that only has 4 working gauges (Tach, Speedometer, Fuel Level, and Battery) disabled the Water Temp and Oil Pressure for the above gauges

3. Removal of the tuning laptop in the passenger seat for the need of datalogging, since I dont have the MS3 with the onboard SD card

4. Increase the amount gauges to show all the vitals wanted (14 in total)

5. Ability to change/add/delete/edit any of the gauges I want, but also if I want a different display I can just change it

6. Ability to make tuning changes as needed

7. Removal of bouncing speedometer due to the cable, removal of the transmission kick-down cable, removal of the CD player for bluetooth enabled music player installed on the RPi

I hope this has been a little more helpful to you, but also to anyone else that maybe following this build thread. I will try not to abbreviate as much but to explain more of details, since this is just one of many projects that will be done on this car. Still have to take out the AOD and put the 4R70W transmission in the car, which means the installation of the Microsquirt for the duty of a TCU (Transmission Control Unit). The TCU will be connected to the current MS2 via CAN bus used for engine control meaning that I will have complete control of the entire engine and transmission both from the dash. This leads to the multi transmission modes that newer cars have of Normal, Sport, and Manual with just a flip of a grounded trigger switch. This then leads to the paddle shifters that are only used in Manual mode that you probably saw as well.

Thanks for that. I'll have to be content to let you boldly go where no man has gone before on this one. I'm way deep enough in my own project to decide that I need to learn how to start coding.

stanglx2002 · Jan 25, 2018

I have made a little more progress on the cluster. I needed to space the LCD screen a little further inside of the cluster, so the screen sat flush. I went to Home Depot and got a bag of #8 washers and 4 longer bolts. I put two washers on each mounting ear on the LCD screen, which spaced it perfectly flush. Took the new bolts and finished mounting the screen.

I also painted the plexiglass flat black as well. Next step, I will be cutting the ABS plastic to the size of the cluster and a hole in the center to the size of the LCD screen itself without all the stuff.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 25, 2018

stanglx2002 said:
I
RPi3 (Raspberry Pie 3 Model B) is a small computer that is used for all kinds of different things, but was design to be used for robotics. Many of the DIY people use them for "car computers", old game consoles (look up retro pie), home surveillance, etc... The reason most use these is they are cheap $40, fast for a small computer, and opens the door to all kinds of projects.

I actually use one for retrogaming. Pretty slick little box and cost me maybe $60 total to put together and programming. Nintendo, Atari, SNES, PS1, Genesis, some arcade and classic PC games. Pretty much have a library of ~500 games on mine. I've done some simple stuff with arduino's (Aquarium lighting control and temp/PH display) but the Rpi3 is something I wish I had more time to playwith.

I laugh at people spending $150+ for a NES or SNES classis with 21 games.

stanglx2002 · Jan 25, 2018

Mustang5L5 said:
I actually use one for retrogaming. Pretty slick little box and cost me maybe $60 total to put together and programming. Nintendo, Atari, SNES, PS1, Genesis, some arcade and classic PC games. Pretty much have a library of ~500 games on mine. I've done some simple stuff with arduino's (Aquarium lighting control and temp/PH display) but the Rpi3 is something I wish I had more time to playwith.

I laugh at people spending $150+ for a NES or SNES classis with 21 games.

My developer at work is the one that turned me on to it, since I didn't even know what it was 1-2 years ago. The conversation started due to wanting to do some retro gaming of SNES and Genesis. Still haven't gotten that project done either.

stanglx2002 · Jan 29, 2018

S197 Seat Install in Foxbody

I haven't seen a tutorial of installing the newer S197 seats in a foxbody, so I decided to document the installation of the seats. I have also weighted the each of the seats and the each part as its disassembled and assembled.

These are the seats that will be installed, which came from a 2013 Mustang GT

Seat Bracket Removal

I started with the Driver's seat and weighted in a total of 57 lbs:

Driver's Seat Full Power Bracket - 22.5 lbs
Driver's Seat - 34.5 lbs

There are (4) bolts that attach the seat bracket to the bottom of the seat. Start with removal of the 15mm nuts from under the seats metal frame on each corner.

Rear (2) seat bracket bolts

Left front seat bracket bolt

Right front seat bracket bolt

This is the Driver's power seat bracket

This is the completed Driver's Seat

Passenger's seat and weighted in a total of 50 lbs:

Passenger's Seat Full Power Bracket - 14.5 lbs
Passenger's Seat - 35 lbs

The Passenger seat came in .5 lb more due to the pressure sensor in the middle of the seat. DON'T cut the plastic line to the pressure sensor unless you have a cap/bolt ready in hand to cap it off. It will leak all over the seat, since removal of the fluid bag in the seat wouldn't be easy.

This is the Passengers non-power seat bracket

Click Link for: Foxbody Seat Bracket Installation

stanglx2002 · Feb 7, 2018

I put the seat project on hold for a moment, so I could mostly finish the instrument cluster. I took the black ABS plastic, and cut it to fit inside the bezel. Then I cut the center rectangle out to the size of just the LCD screen itself, so you don't see the rest of the hardware side of the screen.

Next on the list is the indicator lights for the turn signals and high beam. They finally made it from China.

I am still thinking of getting the Battery and O/D Cancel indicator lights as well, but are still unsure yet.

Once those are installed the instrument cluster will be ready to go to the next step of making it WORK.

This also showed up in the mail for my future steering wheel install. I saw it on eBay and picked it up for cheap, so I will store it away with my paddle shifters until I can gather the rest parts needed for the install.

stanglx2002 · Feb 7, 2018

I am in need of some additional help in incorporating two additional sensors to my dashboard in Tunerstudio that are currently not logged including: Oil Pressure and Fuel Level

I understand that I need to change from the current Analog oil pressure gauge to a digital gauge. Upon research, I have found that using the cheap eBay pressure transducer gauges is not a smart idea due to them having a problem with leaking. The last thing I need is to run the engine dry or catching it on fire due to a bad leaking gauge. I have now been turned onto a AEM gauge that seems to be a good replacement AEM 30-2131-100

I bought the MSPNP Gen 2 from Diyautotune, and it has an option port with the below options:

1. Cam sensor input
2. Table switch input
3. Clutch Switch
4. Tach output
5. Chassis Ground
6. Switched 12VDC (0.5A Max)
7. Boost control solenoid
8. Injector A output
9. Injector B output
10. Knock sensor input
11. CANBus high
12. CANBus low
13. Launch control input
14. Spark D output
15. Spark C output
16. Spark B output
17. Spark A output
18. Injector C output
19. External MAP sensor input
20. IAT sensor input
21. Oxygen sensor input
22. Signal Ground
23. 5VDC Vref
24. Output 1 relay control (ALED)
25. Output 2 relay control (WLED)
26. Injector D Output

For the Oil Pressure I was thinking this for wiring (@a91what is this correct?):
- Red - Pin 23
- Black - Pin 22
- Green - Pin 10 (I will not be installing a knock sensor on this car)

For Fuel Level I need some assistance on how to make this work????

5.0Thunder · Feb 8, 2018

Are any of those 5v sensor inputs (external map) not used in your setup?

stanglx2002 · Feb 8, 2018

5.0Thunder said:
Are any of those 5v sensor inputs (external map) not used in your setup?

Currently, I am not using anything on the Option Port. This was a straight plug-n-play setup, so all of the pins on the Options Port are available.

stanglx2002 · Feb 9, 2018

I may have found a solution to the Fuel Level Gauge questions that I have. The biggest issue with fuel level is sloshing of the fuel in the tank. This will show a moving fuel level up/down on the dash display not giving a very accurate display of the amount of fuel actually in the tank.

Upon further research, i have been able to find what they call a "fuel/gas signal conditioner", which kills two birds with one stone for my problem.

1. It excepts the analog signal from the fuel sensor, and outputs a digital 0-5v for the MS

2. It has a built-in signal conditioner and stabilizing algorithm that provide stable fuel level reading, so the fuel level won't just bounce around everywhere.

#2 was helpful since Tunerstudio doesn't have the ability to take readings over a sample period of time and then average to display the fuel level reading. This should I believe give a more accurate reading of the fuel level, and address my issue of how to get this into Tunerstudio at the same time.

Davedacarpainter · Feb 9, 2018

Geez! This is pretty neat. Beyond me at the moment though. I’ll keep watching just to see you do it.

I’m interested in the seats as well.

stanglx2002 · Feb 9, 2018

Davedacarpainter said:
Geez! This is pretty neat. Beyond me at the moment though. I’ll keep watching just to see you do it.

I’m interested in the seats as well.

Dave, I appreciate the feedback, and just hope people enjoy the upgrades I am making.

I am planning on working on the seats this weekend as well. Most of the pictures that I have been able to find use 1" square tubing for mounting the stock foxbody seat brackets. My biggest concern is raising the seat up, and want to keep it as low to the floorpan as possible. I am thinking of using flat stock steel to mount them. I will make sure to take pictures of the process and update the original install post.

stanglx2002 · Feb 12, 2018

S197 Seat Installation Continued: Foxbody Seat Bracket Installation

Measurements for installation of Foxbody Seat Brackets
- 13 7/8" side-to-side from center of bolt
- 13" or 13 3/4" front-to-back from center of bolt ( This is dependent on your year of brackets used)

Stock Foxbody Seat - 47 lbs
Stock Foxbody Seat Brackets - 5.5 lbs

Hardware:
- (4) 5/16 x 1" Grade 8 bolts
- (4) 5/16 washers
- (4) 5/16 nuts
- Spacer metal (washers, flat stock, etc)

Bottom fitting: measuring side-to-side 13 7/8", and oblong the original holes accordingly

Next, measure from center of hole up either 13" or 13 3/4" based on the stock foxbody seat brackets you are using.

Then, measure 13 7/8" side-to-side and center the best between both sides, and drill a pilot hole first. Then finish with a 5/16 drill bit.

You need to space the seat brackets up a little, because the pivot point for the lever arm for moving the tracks back and forth is on the top. If you mount the brackets directly to the seat it will sit right on top of the pivot point shown in the picture above making it hard to slide the seat forward or back. I use a piece of Flat stock metal, and measure every inch. I drilled the holes first, and then cut at each 2" segment

Then you just simply bolt the frames to the seat bottom with the spacer between the seat track and the seat.

Here is how they look installed in the car. They fit perfectly in my opinion and didn't raise the height, but actually lowered it a little. This is great for me being 6'1, and hated having my head so close to the roof. If you need it higher you can always increase the spacer or use 1" square tubing.

S197 Seat with Foxbody Seat Bracket - 39 lbs

This means that the new seat same out 9 lbs lighter then the stock ones.

stanglx2002 · Feb 12, 2018

I also got further along on my digital instrument cluster. I started on the computer side of things with putting together the Raspberry Pi computer into its case.

I am currently having issues with TunerStudio not wanting to open my project file. I tested to see if I could at least get the tune to open as a temporary project, and it worked just fine. I just can't get my project file to open. If I can't figure it out, I can just setup a new project, which requires me to connect TunerStudio to the MS in the car. I just wasn't ready for that point yet with it raining all weekend.

I am also having an issue with a purple line all the way on the left-hand side of the screen. you can barely see it in the picture, but my OCD is going off saying it needs to go away. From the research I have done it seems that there maybe an additional line of code needing to be added the config.txt file. I will test it soon to see if I can fix it.

90sickfox · Feb 12, 2018

I've been eyeing a set of red seats from 2010 GT....

Awesome, man !!! Great work so far !!! Once you get that screen working you'll have to give us a price list and instructions.

stanglx2002 · Feb 13, 2018

90sickfox said:
I've been eyeing a set of red seats from 2010 GT....

Awesome, man !!! Great work so far !!! Once you get that screen working you'll have to give us a price list and instructions.

Driving the car yesterday and today the seats have been AWESOME. The normal issues with the stock seats and racing seats are gone (at least issues I have) with my head being to close to the roof, seeing out the middle of the windshield not the top, and getting out is easier with your leg not hitting the bottom of the steering wheel since the seat and steering wheel are close.

I am trying to work through the issues on the dash, and currently have an email into EFIAnalytics about why the project won't open. Maybe they can give me some insight as to why it isn't working.

Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place

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