88 Mustang Electrical

[eskion]

I'm looking for as many electrical draw problems as I can find. If anyone has had any please let me know what it was and how you fixed it. When I'm driving at night I have my lights on, then I come to a stop sign or light and my volt meter drops below the middle tick mark, about 2 tick marks below it actually. I have also been having a problem when I drive my car for a while, mostly down the expressway, when I hit an exit ramp and eventually stop, my cars idle fluctuates from normal to low, then dies. If you have any ideas let me know. Thanks.

 

[white5o]

same problems

i have the same problem with my electrical my voltmeter drops all the time i am thinking to change my alternator and as for the car dying when u come to a stop i had that too i changed my iac vavle it fixed the problem it holds idle ALOT better but there is still a little bounce once and a while i was told by a mechanic to check my fuel pump i also read it in a magazine. well thats all i got good luck lemmie know

 

[jrichker]

Take you car to the nearest large auto parts store. They will check your alternator and battery for free. AutoZone, Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts are just a few of the auto parts chain stores that do it.

 

[HISSIN50]

The first thing to do is pull codes. There's not enough info provided, but there's a chance that the stallling issue is related to a low idle, which will cause the alternator's output to drop. If the idle issue is fixed, the voltmeter might go back to how it used to behave.

Good luck.

 

[eskion]

I just picked up a new IAC valve this morning, hopefully I'll have a chance to put it on today and that will be that.

 

[HISSIN50]

Tossing money at parts gets to be expensive and takes more time than properly diagnosing issues.
If wanting to address the IAC anyhow, you could try cleaning yours.

There are some tech tips in the Idle surge Sticky thread which will apply to you.

Good luck.

 

[eskion]

Too late, pulled codes, came up with nothing, so I replaced the IAC and TPS, wasn't really expensive anyway. However, still no improvement.

 

[gunmetal5.0]

Definitely sounds like alternator and perhaps a vacuum leak?

 

[eskion]

alternator is brand new, and good, battery is a 6 month old optima, also tested good. if it's a vacuum leak, i dont even want to think about it

 

[jrichker]

Go get the alternator tested. It's free, and you will have eliminated it as being a possible problem. Most mass market rebuilt alternators have a lifetime warranty. If it is bad, show up with the reciept and get a new one for free.

After and only after you have had the alternator pass the in vehicle test, See the "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=534062
for help with your idle problems. The first post contains all the updates to the fixes. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.

 

[gunmetal5.0]

He's right, new stuff breaks too, and free is free. =) And if it is messed up i'm sure they'll replace it free too. And no one Ever wants to think about vacuum leaks. Of course I went carbed so I don't have this issue.

 

[mustangfreak88]

i have the same electrical problem. I pulled the headlight switch out and found a burnt and melted wire harness connector. Then I followed the wiring to the multifunction switch(directonal switch) and found another melted wiring harness connector.I replaced the head light switch, which didn't help so I'm pretty sure it's the multifunction switch. I'm replacing that next and hopefully it works. You should check both switches for any damage

 

[eskion]

I only said the alternator was good because I had it tested at the same time as the battery, today, but you are very right. Just because a part was good last week doesn't mean it is today. I'm gonna check out the idle thread you posted, and thanks much for the link.