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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

93 2.3 wont rev

  • Thread starter Thread starter pacer
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2006
P

pacer

New Member
Feb 12, 2006
4
0
0
Apr 9, 2006
#1
  • Apr 9, 2006
  • #1
Replaced coil packs,icm,fuel pump,filter.Whenever the engine is under load it bogs bad.When you mat it it wont rev past 2grand.If you feather the gas it will cath up.I pulled the mass air off while it was running it seamed much better.Of coarse I got a code for this.I do get a lean code also when the meter is hooked up.The meter checks out ok.I'm thinking bad injectors?HELP!
 
M

myboyhasa66

New Member
Jun 30, 2004
81
0
0
Apr 9, 2006
#2
  • Apr 9, 2006
  • #2
maybe the cat is clogged? leak in the intake? any smoke?
 
P

pacer

New Member
Feb 12, 2006
4
0
0
Apr 9, 2006
#3
  • Apr 9, 2006
  • #3
No smoke.I thought of cat too but it runs better with maf disconnected.I know when mass air meter value drops computer adj injector pulse width.When it's floored it seems to never catch up until I back off?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,268
17,955
224
Massachusetts
Apr 9, 2006
#4
  • Apr 9, 2006
  • #4
I had a similar problem with my 1990 2.3L when i owned it. It took forever to rev and had no power at all.

The timing belt had ended up jumping a tooth on me.
 
M

mikemc69

New Member
Dec 9, 2002
1
0
0
West Des Moines, Iowa
Apr 10, 2006
#5
  • Apr 10, 2006
  • #5
my '91 2.3 had that problem, it was the timing belt
 
P

pacer

New Member
Feb 12, 2006
4
0
0
Apr 10, 2006
#6
  • Apr 10, 2006
  • #6
Checked that today timing was right on.Anyone replaced-tested crank sensor?What to look for.Thanks
 

16vstang

New Member
Oct 8, 2004
100
0
0
Way up in Maine
Apr 11, 2006
#7
  • Apr 11, 2006
  • #7
Its best to just get a new crank sensor, there kinda hard to test. But I would defanatly check your cam timing agian, ive done that before and that is exactly what happens, just wont rev up. Try gettting a new timing belt and going to Stingers site and read how to set the timing corectly http://stinger-performance.com/tech.html and setting the timing agian. Hope all turns out well.
 
P

pacer

New Member
Feb 12, 2006
4
0
0
Apr 11, 2006
#8
  • Apr 11, 2006
  • #8
Update,took apart mass air meter 1 of the heated sensor wires had junk on it.According to my book I should get .6 volts at idle which I was.After I cleaned it it runs nice.So I don't know what the deal was but it's good now.Thank's for ther help!
 

StangCollecter

Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
122
0
0
Niles Illinois
Apr 22, 2006
#9
  • Apr 22, 2006
  • #9
sounds like the Mass Air Meter.

Mine was doing the same thing, it will throw all sorts of ugly codes because it throws off everythign else by tellign the engine the wrong amount of air is going in, resulting in too rich or too lean and then you get anything from O2 sonsor to knocking, and bad stalling.

Picked up a rebuilt unit and put it on, drove it home and have had no problems since.

First I thought it was the EGR valve as it seemed similar to a problem I had on a different vehicle. So I put a (very expensive) egr valve on it only to have it do the same thing as soon as I started driving it after.
 
F

Fuzzylogic

New Member
May 8, 2005
42
0
0
Albany, OR
Apr 24, 2006
#10
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #10
I'm having some similiar problems (I made a thread about it as well) and just found this post. Can someone give me a quick/basic rundown on how to check/take apart the mass air meter and what to look for?

Very appreciated!
 
F

Fuzzylogic

New Member
May 8, 2005
42
0
0
Albany, OR
Apr 24, 2006
#11
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #11
Well, I unplugged the connection that goes into the MAF, the connections seemed okay but there was white stuff on them...wiped them off with a paper towel, hooked it back up, and still have the same problems. Oh well. I didn't take the box off, just unplugged the connection. Not sure if there's something else I should do, rather than what I did (I'm sure there is), or if I need to take that box off and disassemble it further.

I haven't been able to check the volts - we have one of those testers, I just have no idea how to use it, and it's hooked up to my Dad's '66 Mustang right now... So I'll wait until 4pm to try that.

I'm such a newbie to this gearhead stuff. It's fun but confusing, haha.
 

StangCollecter

Founding Member
Dec 6, 1999
122
0
0
Niles Illinois
Apr 24, 2006
#12
  • Apr 24, 2006
  • #12
Fuzzylogic said:
Well, I unplugged the connection that goes into the MAF, the connections seemed okay but there was white stuff on them...wiped them off with a paper towel, hooked it back up, and still have the same problems. Oh well. I didn't take the box off, just unplugged the connection. Not sure if there's something else I should do, rather than what I did (I'm sure there is), or if I need to take that box off and disassemble it further.

I haven't been able to check the volts - we have one of those testers, I just have no idea how to use it, and it's hooked up to my Dad's '66 Mustang right now... So I'll wait until 4pm to try that.

I'm such a newbie to this gearhead stuff. It's fun but confusing, haha.
Click to expand...

try unplugging it while it's runnig to see if it changes.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
5,232
2,652
223
gainesville
Jul 12, 2006
#13
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #13
I have almost the same problem. I unplugged it while it was running and the engine started and ran fine. I replace with a new unit and the car starts acting up again. kinda bugs me cause that thing was not cheap.
 
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