Put a brand new battery into the car right before I made a 600+ mile trip with her. She's been running fine since until this afternoon, when the car would not even crank over. Battery related? I figured if it was fuel related, it would a tleast crank over.
or spark related, like bad tfi module or coil. The module can be tested at a local parts store like napa etc. could also have a problem inside the dizzy. There is a no start check list on here to if you search it. you could also check for codes. when you go to crank it does it spin strong like the battery if full of a charge?
The battery gauge goes up like a charm when I try to start the car. The starter does not engage whatsoever. I turn the key to start and the only sound I hear is the fuel pump engaging.
The battery gauge goes up like a charm when I try to start the car. The starter does not engage whatsoever. I turn the key to start and the only thing I hear is the fuel pump engage.
maybe bad soleniod it's mounted inside the fender by the battery, you can jump the soleniod to start the car also to check it. they are pretty cheap cost wise, also check you cables for corrosion at the soleniod and the cable running to the starter. If the starter itself is jambed sometimes you can hit a few times and at will free up but it will need to be replaced if this is the case.
I had a problem similar to this just about a week ago. It turned out the wire comin from the inside to engage the solenoid was so corroded and such that I barely pulled on it and it snapped right off. I ran a new wire down to the base of that wire to the solenoid and haven't had a problem since. Idk if anyone else has had similar problems with that wire crapping out on them or not though
Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…
Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Avoid them like the plague...
A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem. See Automotive Test Tools for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.
1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.
2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.
3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.
4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.
5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit... Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds
6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.
7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or upgraded high torque mini starter.