93 lx door problems

I’ll have to look, but I think LMR offers a larger set of bushings/pins than can be used to take care of the problem.

I’m assuming that the door side hinges are still solidly welded in place and the pillar hinges aren’t loose at all.

If the actual hinge pieces themselves aren’t moving, then the holes where the bushings go in are wallowed out.

Depending on how bad they are you might just need that hinge pin set I posted above or, if they have become elongated, you might need new hinges.

Still, a fairly easy fix.

raun93lx said:

Those are the new pin set from lmr

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Right, but I was suggesting the other set they have for hinges that are heavily worn. If the holes that the bushings are worn then the new regular bushings won’t fix the problem. The other set is a slightly larger diameter.

Tell me, when you were putting the new bushings in, did you have to tap them in with a hammer or some other tool? If they just slipped into the holes in the hinges then the holes have begun to wear.

If they wear too much then you need new hinges.

raun93lx said:

Here's the pics sag is very noticeble

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This picture looks like the hinges aren’t bolted to the car tightly. I see a gap between hinge and body. I’d check that if it were mine.

OOOPS!!!The important thing to remember is that the hinge pin isn't supposed to move once you are finished. If it does, then you will end up like me - the pin moved, it wore the door hinge instead of the replaceable bushings. Now in order to fix it right, I had to remove the whole thing again and drill out the hinge to the same size as the bushing and use 2 sets of bushings in each hinge rather than one set.

The fix for the OOOPS was very time consuming and if you aren't up to some very interesting machine work, do it right so you won't have to do it again. I fixed the OOOPS but I had $65 worth of drill bit and specialized reamer plus pulling the fender off to fix it.

I ended up removing the fender and removing the hinge bracket. Set the hinges up in a drill press to insure that the holes will be drilled straight and in line with each other. Getting the hinge bracket set up in the drill press is very important. The top hole and bottom hole are drilled and reamed without taking the hinge bracket out of its mounting on the drill press. This insures that the holes are in prefect alignment with each other.

Then I used a 15/32 drill to the old hinge pin holes out. Next, I used a .4780 straight reamer in the drill press to ream the holes out to the same size as the replacement bushing. Push the bushings in and use a little hard setting Locktite to secure them. If I did it again, I would probably go with .001-.0015 smaller reamer for a press fit.

A word or warning, if you choose this method, mike the bushing OD before you order the reamer. You bushings may not be the same OD as the ones I used. The reamers can be purchased with almost any size OD you need, but be sure to get the right size the first time.

Drill bit and reamer are available from MSC direct (www.mscdirect.com)
Reamer P/N 72034788 - $45
Drill bit P/N 84579861 - $17